|
YetiTodd
May 17, 2010, 4:55 PM
Post #1 of 17
(4923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2010
Posts: 2
|
|
|
|
|
|
bryan305
May 17, 2010, 5:32 PM
Post #2 of 17
(4908 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2010
Posts: 5
|
good story. Would read again
|
|
|
|
|
bustloose
May 17, 2010, 7:54 PM
Post #3 of 17
(4881 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 489
|
having a flat roof in a home gym is a colossal waste of time, space, and money. please tell me you don't have a vertical 'pitch' as well.
|
|
|
|
|
synrock
May 17, 2010, 9:48 PM
Post #4 of 17
(4847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 282
|
bustloose wrote: having a flat roof in a home gym is a colossal waste of time, space, and money. please tell me you don't have a vertical 'pitch' as well.
I disagreeeeeee A roof is no more a waste of space than your ceiling. With lots of fun roof holds you get a great upper body workout.
Cheap roof holds on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/...ELX:IT#ht_500wt_1154
And if you want them even cheaper - come up to State College and I'll show you the local bouldering and sell you roof holds for $4 each.
|
|
|
|
|
YetiTodd
May 18, 2010, 12:35 AM
Post #5 of 17
(4822 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2010
Posts: 2
|
Thanks for the link, I'm in the market for some roof jugs. I'll have to come up to check out state so time.
to me building anything that I can climb on is never "waste of time" half the fun of it is building
I do have a stright vert wall as well, but building a couple features on it. I like having a assortment for all my friends skill levels
(This post was edited by YetiTodd on May 18, 2010, 12:36 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
climb4free
May 18, 2010, 2:45 PM
Post #6 of 17
(4760 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 11, 2007
Posts: 283
|
bustloose wrote: having a flat roof in a home gym is a colossal waste of time, space, and money. please tell me you don't have a vertical 'pitch' as well.
There are two major "philosophies" when it comes to building a home wall. Three when I add my own at the end.
#1 - TRAINING, TRAINING, TRAINING!!! - 45 - 50* past vert, power focused. This is where you will hear said, "8ft wide and as tall as you can get it" - my first wall was built in this fashion mainly due to space constrictions.
#2 - Training and Enjoyment - focus is on variety and quality of movement. Transitions are key. There is often a tendancy to incorporate too many stemming moves, however if an arete is built in, then that offers some balance. This was my philosophy up until I built my most recent wall using it. I do have a roof section now that I use to transition between walls, but unless caving, the roof is not utilized to its fullest unless you get to pull out of it. I also have a 4ft. vert section, but mainily for my 2 year old son and 4 year old nephew. I do some sloper stuff on it too. The key for me was training that is FUN. If it is not FUN, would I be disciplined to use it regularly"
Two points lead me to my newest philosphy. I do use it more often with the variety of movements, but discipline still comes from within and I always have to work on it. And realism is key. My next wall will follow more along these lines:
#3 - Build a homewall with the input of climbing partners, so they feel they have some "ownership" in the project and want to come over more often. Accountability is key. Also realism: If space were no limit, I would incorporate a steep wall with a 15*/vert headwall coming out, to a top out. And still, variety is important to me. FUN!!
Bottom line is you have to stay in your space limitations and build what you will climb on.
(This post was edited by climb4free on May 18, 2010, 2:53 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
mojomonkey
May 18, 2010, 7:42 PM
Post #7 of 17
(4715 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 13, 2006
Posts: 869
|
bustloose wrote: having a flat roof in a home gym is a colossal waste of time, space, and money. please tell me you don't have a vertical 'pitch' as well.
Seems like there is a communication problem here, but maybe it's me. Since he said peak, I think the OP said "roof pitch" as in a non-flat roof (ref), meaning the highest point is at 14', but it isn't uniformly that tall.
I think bustloose read "roof pitch" as in "multipitch", where there is one pitch of climbing on a (presumably) flat ceiling. Sounds like bustloose is picturing vertical climbing up a wall, then horizontal on the ceiling.
|
|
|
|
|
bustloose
May 18, 2010, 7:52 PM
Post #8 of 17
(4709 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 489
|
nope, no communication problem. i am picturing what he has built, what so many home walls have, and that is a horizontal flat roof, along his 14' ceiling. i used the word pitch to openly mock the use of it in the OP.
it doesn't matter if you have the sweetest 45 degree wall in the world, if you put a roof on it, you've wasted that time, and those resources.
unless you like to monkey traverse on jugs, for fun, with no real benefit to your climbing. then, by all means, go to town.
|
|
|
|
|
Dip
May 18, 2010, 8:47 PM
Post #9 of 17
(4682 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2009
Posts: 270
|
I have a horizontal roof section on mine, but it doesn't run across the ceiling. I have a garage door that slides up to open, so i built the flat roof just under where the door goes. Having it low to the ground like that, i'm able to transition to/from my 45, as well as my 15, and i'm able to set problems that involve "pulling the roof," as i was able to build a small slightly overhanging section to do that. I think if anything the waste it was the 15 degree wall, but that was pretty much just leftovers anyway.
So, i think if you do it right, you can put one on that isn't a colossal waste of time and resources. I'll try to get some pictures of mine up, and you be the judge.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
climb4free
May 19, 2010, 6:00 PM
Post #11 of 17
(4589 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 11, 2007
Posts: 283
|
Looks good Dip. Just goes to show, you do what you can with the location that you have.
|
|
|
|
|
keinangst
May 26, 2010, 8:05 PM
Post #12 of 17
(4507 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2003
Posts: 1408
|
bustloose wrote: nope, no communication problem. i am picturing what he has built, what so many home walls have, and that is a horizontal flat roof, along his 14' ceiling. i used the word pitch to openly mock the use of it in the OP. it doesn't matter if you have the sweetest 45 degree wall in the world, if you put a roof on it, you've wasted that time, and those resources. unless you like to monkey traverse on jugs, for fun, with no real benefit to your climbing. then, by all means, go to town.
I'm still not following your criticism. If you want to train for pumpy roofs, build a pumpy roof. Home walls can be used to train for just about anything encountered outdoors...except for delicate slabs. There just aren't any holds small and nuanced enough.
Unless you mean that a 45-degree wall would be sufficient for roof training on its own, which is probably possible.
|
|
|
|
|
synrock
May 26, 2010, 11:36 PM
Post #13 of 17
(4478 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 282
|
keinangst wrote: Home walls can be used to train for just about anything encountered outdoors...except for delicate slabs. There just aren't any holds small and nuanced enough.
Yes - this was true - until now.
http://cgi.ebay.com/...ELX:IT#ht_500wt_1154
|
|
|
|
|
bustloose
May 27, 2010, 9:17 PM
Post #14 of 17
(4441 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 489
|
Dip wrote: pics as promised. horizontal to 40(ish) to 55(ish). 15 is on the opposite side
the wall looks good, but i stand by my original statement that your horizontal section is not required. it adds little to no value in terms of technique or strength.
|
|
|
|
|
bustloose
May 27, 2010, 9:21 PM
Post #15 of 17
(4440 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 489
|
keinangst wrote: bustloose wrote: nope, no communication problem. i am picturing what he has built, what so many home walls have, and that is a horizontal flat roof, along his 14' ceiling. i used the word pitch to openly mock the use of it in the OP. it doesn't matter if you have the sweetest 45 degree wall in the world, if you put a roof on it, you've wasted that time, and those resources. unless you like to monkey traverse on jugs, for fun, with no real benefit to your climbing. then, by all means, go to town. I'm still not following your criticism. If you want to train for pumpy roofs, build a pumpy roof. Home walls can be used to train for just about anything encountered outdoors...except for delicate slabs. There just aren't any holds small and nuanced enough. Unless you mean that a 45-degree wall would be sufficient for roof training on its own, which is probably possible.
how many "pumpy roofs" do you encounter in a season? besides, you don't need a roof, to develop the skills you need to climb roofs...
a 45 degree wall is sufficient to build strength and power which should translate, if you have any semblance of technique, to any environment.
|
|
|
|
|
climb4free
May 27, 2010, 10:36 PM
Post #16 of 17
(4421 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 11, 2007
Posts: 283
|
bustloose wrote: keinangst wrote: bustloose wrote: nope, no communication problem. i am picturing what he has built, what so many home walls have, and that is a horizontal flat roof, along his 14' ceiling. i used the word pitch to openly mock the use of it in the OP. it doesn't matter if you have the sweetest 45 degree wall in the world, if you put a roof on it, you've wasted that time, and those resources. unless you like to monkey traverse on jugs, for fun, with no real benefit to your climbing. then, by all means, go to town. I'm still not following your criticism. If you want to train for pumpy roofs, build a pumpy roof. Home walls can be used to train for just about anything encountered outdoors...except for delicate slabs. There just aren't any holds small and nuanced enough. Unless you mean that a 45-degree wall would be sufficient for roof training on its own, which is probably possible. how many "pumpy roofs" do you encounter in a season? besides, you don't need a roof, to develop the skills you need to climb roofs... a 45 degree wall is sufficient to build strength and power which should translate, if you have any semblance of technique, to any environment.
I agree with you. But it still depends on the spacial constraints of where it is built. Excessive $$ put into focus on the roof section would be wasted, but a small section usable to transition between walls is not a complete waste.
|
|
|
|
|
Dip
May 28, 2010, 1:35 PM
Post #17 of 17
(4386 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2009
Posts: 270
|
exactly. Would my garage be better off if the space where i could not build an angle went unused? Maybe your right about the training factor, but if you figure in the fun factor, and treat it like a roof that's lower to the ground where you can't swing and monkey-bar around, then i have to believe there's some training benefit to it as well.
|
|
|
|
|
|
climbing 09 003.jpg
