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foyboy
May 6, 2003, 12:38 AM
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Registered: Apr 30, 2003
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The question
Anyone know where I can go to find a large selection of climbing holds? Being able to physically go and inspect them would be a huge plus. I am in the Seattle area. Is there a manufacture near me?
The deal
I am planning on buying sloper holds and very tiny holds (they can't be screw on). I am planning on setting 5.12 and 5.13 slab routes with holds instead of taping features like usual, (please don't take this as bragging or such, I am ONLY including this info so you guys will know exactly what I am looking for) so I need the "worst" holds possible. I have never bought holds myself before so I don't really know where to look. I went down to R.E.I. in Seattle but they definitely did not have the selection I needed. I spent a few hours on-line searching, but I can't quite tell what I would be buying with out being able to actually feel the holds. I would greatly like any help you anyone can give me. Thanks in advance,
Chris (foyboy)
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rwaltermyer
May 6, 2003, 1:14 AM
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Registered: Aug 10, 2001
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mgear.com definitely has the best prices i've found.
or cheapholds.com.
and whats this "TAPING" on holds? are we talking real rock or indoor? i'm confused. Cuz usually you don't tape on hold anywhere. but you usually don't climb slabs indoor either. huh? :? :?: :?
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calpolyclimber
May 6, 2003, 1:36 AM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
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By slab do you mean face? Never heard of a 5.13 slab route...
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climbingthecorn
May 6, 2003, 2:03 AM
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Registered: May 27, 2002
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Give www.morganicclimbing.com a look. Good prices and the holds are super durable with good texture.
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rwaltermyer
May 6, 2003, 2:15 AM
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wow...that morganicclimbing appears unbeatable.
definitely the cheapest i've ever seen!!
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foyboy
May 6, 2003, 5:47 PM
Post #6 of 11
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Hey all, thanks for the info, hopefully with what I will find I'll be able to set better routs then before.
To clear up some confusion...
By slab I was referring to less than vertical. In this case I am totaly guessing and saying it is about 75 degrees? It is indoor, and yes there are usually not 5.13 slab's indoors. The last one took me 6 weeks to work out all the moves and then about an hour to actually set it. As far as taping holds, where I climb there are textured walls, to set a 5.13 on a slab, I put tape on the features and micro-features of the textured wall (features being intensional imperfections in the climbing wall, some of which appear to be simply painted on). Several micro-features are about 1 mm deep and between 1 and 3 fingers wide. I am having great difficulty in finding actual holds that you can buy that will be as difficult to use as these features. Many of the features that I tape are so small that they are merely for balance and to assist in weight transfers, nearly all of the actual climbing has to be done with your feet, you can simply forget about trying to pull up on on most of these features with your hands.
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atomic
May 7, 2003, 3:31 AM
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Registered: Feb 4, 2002
Posts: 56
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Chris,
I make high quality, but fairly inexpensive holds. If your interested, email me at scott@atomicholds.com or you can check a few of the ATOMIC sets out on ebay. Let me know.
Thanks
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gdeveney
May 7, 2003, 3:59 AM
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Registered: Oct 30, 2002
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I'm a big fan of voodoo holds...they have some pretty sweet stuff.... www.voodooholds.com
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pbjosh
May 7, 2003, 5:18 AM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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75 degrees + 5.13 usually means there's nothing on it even APPROACHING the size of the bolt you'd use to put it on the wall, so I'm not sure where you're headed with that one, but good luck.
With respect to the "worst holds" you can imagine, you can make some horrendous holds by using the curvature in the neck of a 2L soda bottle as a mold and using a bondo/sand type mixture to make the holds. The resulting "hold" will be slick as snot and have surprisingly little relief. If you do it correcly it won't have a positive edge on it - all just blend smoothly into the surface and then drill it. Bolt it with something countersunk or the bolt will become the best part of the hold.
josh
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foyboy
May 7, 2003, 5:45 PM
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Registered: Apr 30, 2003
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PBIn reply to: 75 degrees + 5.13 usually means there's nothing on it even APPROACHING the size of the bolt
Interesting idea of how to make a hold, I have never looked into making my own before, but maybe that is where the answer lies.
Atomic, you make holds? We should talk.:) I'll e-mail you.
Maybe the best way to communicate what exactly I am looking for would be if I took some pics of the micro-features that I currently tape and put those pic's up here. That way you will have a better idea of what type of hold I am trying to aquire.
Thanks again for everyones time, I know slab is not very hi on most peoples priority list, but it sure floats my boat.:)
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dynoholds
May 12, 2003, 7:31 PM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2003
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It's a bit of a late post but if you're still interested in inexpensive holds I've been making and selling holds at http://www.dynoholds.com for a while.
We specialize in custom sets as well.
Take it easy,
Mason
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