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dnruss
Jul 5, 2003, 11:01 PM
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I've been climbing for about three months now and I started and have always climbed outdoors. Well, I haven't climbed in about a week due to rain and my girlfriend dragging me back in the house for everything. I decided that today I was going to climb no matter what, so I woke up and went the my local gym. It was terrible. I'm sorry for those who like gyms, but the only thing nice I can say about it is that, at least I got to climb. The atmosphere was horrible and it was just too artificial. As far as actual climbing goes, it was fine. The only problem I have with it is burning out because instead of just climbing you have to look for the frickin tape so you can stay on route. It was soooo ridiculous. Or at least in my humble opinion it was. I expect to get slammed on this topic, but I don't care. Bring it on. I don't ever expect to see my back in the gym unless it rains for 2 weeks straight!!! Thanks for the vent.
Thoughs on gym climbing compared to outdoor climbing anyone???
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hoss
Jul 5, 2003, 11:12 PM
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I agree that there is NO comparison of the Gym atmosphere to the Real Outdoor Experience.. But, what you have to keep in mind is... a Gym is just that... a place to work on developing those specific climbing muscles and developing muscle memory.. it is NOT a subsitute for going outdoors..
There are gym rats.. people who don't like to get dirty or enjoy the beauty of the rock with all it's textures and bugs...
And then there are people who enjoy the TOTAL experience..
I say USE the gym when necessary and get outdoors whenever possible! :shock:
H
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alwaysforward
Jul 5, 2003, 11:25 PM
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"I went to the gym for the first time in over two months after returning from a road trip. It fucking sucks. I was falling all over the place too, and those holds were hurting. My fingers are sore as hell. I watched in dismay as I got smoked by 17 year old gym rats. Then some kid who's never touched stone in his life told me that I could be pretty good if I just improved my finger strength and then he started to walk away. So I grabbed him and threw him against the wall and I took his fucking head and I put it on the fucking floor and said, 'you mutta fucka, I've taken 50 foot falls onto tiny tcu's, I got respect in all 5 boro's — sport, trad, big wall, ice, and alpine. My mudda can hold her head high in any crag in this country. Look at me, I got 26 first ascents under my belt and you're going to walk out on me? I walk out on you.'
I mean I said, 'yeah, I really need to work on my finger strength'....." — Christian Brooks
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hawk233
Jul 5, 2003, 11:46 PM
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Yeah, the gym is definately not as good as the real thing, but for some reason my forearms burn out faster in the gym, so it makes me stronger faster.
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sroehlk
Jul 6, 2003, 1:59 AM
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Gotta take it for what it's worth. I don't know anyone who prefers indoors to outdoors. But for those of us who can only get out on the weekends and live the the flatlands, it a great place to train and hang out with other climbers.
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occlimbr
Jul 6, 2003, 2:05 AM
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I agree also. The only reason i go to the gym is to build up strenght and endurance 4 outdoors. Like you the thing i hate most it trying to find the damn route tags. Esp. on footholds.
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dnruss
Jul 6, 2003, 2:06 AM
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I guess if its all you have then there's no problem with it. Living in Austin I just go climb outside whenever I can. I just can't stand it when it rains for more than 3 or 4 days... Just as long as you dont prefer indoor to outdoor. I just dont see how anyone could prefer it.
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jtenright
Jul 6, 2003, 2:28 AM
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In reply to: Yeah, the gym is definately not as good as the real thing, but for some reason my forearms burn out faster in the gym, so it makes me stronger faster.
some here, I have only been on real rock twice, but I get a much better workout in the gym, b/c less time to setup I guess
also nothing compares to outdoors, but I started in the gym so I don't mind
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redpoint73
Jul 6, 2003, 2:47 AM
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Nobody ever implied tht climbing indoors was the "same" as climbing outside. I know there is a minority (very small I would think)of climbers that prefer gyms or climb at gyms exclusively. But most climbers just use gyms as a training tool for when they can't do the real thing. Kind of like a biker who uses a stationary bike in the off season.
Most climbers would climb outside every time and never see the inside of a gym. And many do just that. But for a lot of people, weather (as you have experienced) as well as personal constraints (work, distance to crag, family duties) just don't make this possible. Heck, for people who live in the midwest or the northeast, you can't even climb outside for 3-4 months out of the year. There are some hardcores that claim that you can climb year round in the northeast. I think they're lunatics.
Obviously, plastic holds bolted to a plywood wall inside a warehouse is not going to be the same as real rock in a forest or desert. But as far as training, it gets the job done.
Do you really that looking for big pieces of tape next to brightly colored pieces of plastic is more difficult then spotting the holds on real rock? Its probably just because you are not accustomed to it.
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dnruss
Jul 6, 2003, 2:49 AM
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If you only want a work out then stay in the gym, but if you ever want to ENJOY climbing........
if the gym is all you have--great. if you get a "better work out" then lift weights....
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cjcalls
Jul 6, 2003, 2:56 AM
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Russ get a life. get a grip. get flamed. get whatever you can but get outside. I still have that 5.11 corner on my house. I'll let you have first crack at it.:lol:
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christopherjay
Jul 6, 2003, 4:18 AM
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The gym made climbing accessible to me. If it wasn't for the Urban Krag (slight plug) I would NEVER have gotten addicted to climbing as I have. Granted, I have yet to fully enjoy the outdoors as of yet (I did a loooong time ago, but was very inexperienced) I now have access to adventures I never dreamed of two years ago. Now The Ohio ppl are planning a trip to New river gorge...I didn't even now that existed last year!! I'm in the best shape of my life, meeting the coolest people ever, and climbing things I never thought possible....I was one of those that when I started at the gym, wouldn't do the real routes..I was too nervous and too weak to try it...hell I was DEATHLY afraid of heights!!! Now I'm doing 5.10c's and taking falls like it's nothing. I'm glad there was a climbing gym in my city. Even though the outdoors is calling me...I'll be a gym rat in spirit forever. peace love unity. CJC......... 8)
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criscokid
Jul 8, 2003, 5:46 AM
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being a route setter im biased...GET OUTSIDE!!!! sheesh why do we even have to discuss this? gyms are good workouts and fun. plus i can work specific movment but it was never and will never be even remotly close to as good as climbing outside!!!
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veggieclimber
Jul 8, 2003, 7:05 AM
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I also can't help but be appalled by what gyms charge you. There is no reason I need to pay, 15 bucks to climb for a day, especially when I have my own shoes and harness, and when I am a poor college student. I say build a bouldering cave in your basement(like me) :lol: and then you can train at home when its all rainy and crappy outside.
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teddy
Jul 8, 2003, 7:36 AM
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Well i am one of those people christopherjay was describing, im still just like he was... ive been climbing for 5 or 6 weeks... and i love indoors, outdoor has seemed crap to me so far, coz ive only been to one site, on 2 different days. Both days were cold and windy, the sun only gets on this rock face in summer (australia so its winter), i didnt have proper shoes, so needless to say. My first 2 outdoor experiences have been cold, wet, miserable, and finger numbing, but thanks to this site and 1 or 2 mates that climb ive realised that i do have to try and climb outdoor more.
My point is that i have no complaints with indoor, except that im colour blind so the coloured holds make it really hard to follow a route. Then again from what i've heard all of you say, my gym is awesome... it has prices of $8-$11 per day (aus this is) or $100 for 3 months (i mean come on 4 climbs for veggieclimber is the same price as 3 months of whenever i want), it has a 10-15m roof (im really bad with distances, but it goes across the whole gym), 3 bouldering caves, 1 with steps, 1 sloped, and 1 sloped with a roof. All the climbs are made by 1 guy who is an outdoor climber, so theyre usually good climbs, so overall, my gym experiences sound much better than the gyms u guys have been to. But still it would be much better if it was summer so i could climb outdoor already :x
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arkangel
Jul 8, 2003, 6:17 PM
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I had a similar experience. I just went to the gym for the first time yesterday and I was quite excited at first. It was horrible. I felt like a horrible climber, I got pumped so easily, the holds were greasy. I got spanked on like.. 5.7 climbs when I'd have no problem on that outside. There were times I wondered if I did the right thing spending 350+ on climbing equipment but, I did. I love the outdoors and I have only been climbing (other than bouldering) in one spot. Anyway, off to do some bouldering and wash out that bad gym taste right now:-)
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timstich
Jul 8, 2003, 6:27 PM
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"GYMS TURN GOOD MEN INTO GOO"
-Burt Bronson (ah, sorry Burt) BURT BRONSON
-Stich
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jt512
Jul 8, 2003, 6:32 PM
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In reply to: I don't ever expect to see my back in the gym unless it rains for 2 weeks straight!!! Thanks for the vent.
Too bad for you. Gym climbing is better strength training than outdoor climbing.
-Jay
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enitine
Jul 8, 2003, 7:11 PM
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I live right in the heart of Pittsburgh, and train in the gym 2-4 days per week. It's hard being a college student, working 80hrs a week and trying to find time to get out on the weekends to climb real rock. If it wasn't for my local gym 20 min away, I would have never fallen in love with rock climbing. Its been a little over 4 years, and I feel that building strength from the gym transitions over to real rock and I can really tell a difference in how I climb. I agree with everyone else, gyms dont compare to real rock, but if its there and you have shi t t i weather, it's better than nothing....... :roll: 8)
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sustainedclimber
Jul 9, 2003, 5:52 AM
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I have done a good deal of climbing indoors and out, and I can definitely say that they require two very different styles. For the most part I find that I can climb higher ratings outside purely because I get pumped quicker indoors. I blame this on the angle of the walls. There are walls in gyms that are much steeper than must stuff outside. I like outdoors much more if I can get out, but indoor walls definitely keep you in shape for when you are training to send those hard climbs at your local cliffs
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meataxe
Jul 9, 2003, 10:18 PM
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I started climbing inside, but have started to do more outdoor climbing recently. I'm starting to find the gym so claustophobic and crowded. I could imagine what it is like for someone who has climbed primarily outside. The two experiences are so totally different...
Bouldering indoors is perhaps a bit more peaceful because you can find a quiet corner of a cave to train without a lot of people around.
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mortalmonkey
Jul 21, 2003, 4:36 AM
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hey but for me it costs more to go to the nearest climbing spot than to climb all day at verticle endevers(my local climbing gym). there is no real rock near me. plus the gym that i climb at is awsome. i have been outside and i know that the two cant be compared but as far as gyms go, mine rocks. it is nicros made and it was made to look and feel like real rock. heck, me and my friend go there and take our trad equitment to practice placement and such. as far as hight it is 40 feet high, but you can do laps and make it a little closer to multipitches. well, ok, maybee not but still, the other day i went up a crack at my gym 30 straight times. i thought it was fun. you dont even need to use the holds on alot of the routes. it is alot more smooth and has the icky man made feel to it but for me, it is so much more convinient to climb all day from 10 to 10 at my indoor wall than to go all the way to the nearest rock and get gear and set it up and get a belayer and take it down and drive back. i think i would be alot less biased if i didnt live in such an anti rock climbing area. and as far as tags go, i think it forces you to take a look at it from the bottom. cuz if you dont oyu might not see a foot hold from up there. it helped me when it came to outdoor climbing. now i climb the route mentaly from the bottom up before each climb. i can feel such an improovment. well, thats that.
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jookyhead
Jul 21, 2003, 4:50 AM
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I went to a gym for the first time a couple weeks ago and came out of it with an injured shoulder :( . I'm not even sure how it happened... theres something wrong with my rotator cuff or something, but for the most part it was quite fun, but like what so many people have repeated so many times, it doesnt even compare to outdoors.
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elrojobdugs
Jul 21, 2003, 4:56 AM
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well... i dont know if this is just me... but im a lot better of a climber outside than inside... living in columbus ohio has its limits so i hang out at my loacal gym to get better... and no doubt it helps alot... but when i make trips down to the red i find that i can climb alot better outdoors...
does anyone feel the same way???
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tradman
Jul 21, 2003, 11:15 AM
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Ah yes, the outdoor nazis from warm countries.
Come over here to Scotland for a week and climb every day. You could climb pouring rain, blazing sunshine and 100 mile an hour winds all in the same day. When the climate's like that, unless you're really stupid or really brave, you get used to climbing indoors a lot.
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