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gymnasticscoach
Dec 31, 2002, 1:53 PM
Post #26 of 31
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Registered: Jan 10, 2002
Posts: 11
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I had a spinner that was almost impossible to fix because the t-nut was stripped. I could not get the bolt to tighten or loosen. I even wedged in behind the hold to try and get the t-nut to grab while making an effort to remove or tighten the hold. This panel is not accessable from behind due to the way I built the wall. I finally ended up drilling a small hole on both sides of the hold and used a countersunk screw to keep the hold from spinning. I agree that sometimes while climbing, you never know when something will give way (especially outdoors). At least a spinner isn't a falling rock. As a gym owner, I fix the spinners as soon as I know about it.
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falke
Jan 3, 2003, 6:01 PM
Post #27 of 31
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Registered: Jul 20, 2002
Posts: 25
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rotation hold...adds to difficulty rating
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jman
Jan 3, 2003, 6:14 PM
Post #28 of 31
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Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 438
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Don't think there is any way to ensure that a hold will never spin or move unless multiple bolts or screws secure the hold. Biggest fall that I took leading in a gym was a result of a spinning hold....was standing on a balancy hold a few feet above the last bolt and while pulling rope and my belayer feeding me slack, to make the next clip, the foothold I was on spun right as I was about to clip and I took a nice 20' or so fall.
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xanx
Jan 20, 2003, 4:35 AM
Post #29 of 31
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Registered: Aug 6, 2002
Posts: 1002
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just a few points:
1) Voodoo holds spin less because they have a softer backing that conforms and sticks to the wall better.
2)the point about flare head bolts is good - i never really noticed, but it makes sense, i'll check it out nxt time i go to the gym
3)there is a balance the route setter has to make between going too loose (spinner) and risking popping the T-nut (anyone who has done this can attest to the pains of then getting the spinning hold off the wall - you generally need a lot of muscle, some luck, and i bad cases, a crow bar. one person had to break the hold off the wall with a hammer!)
4)another important factor is tape - the people at my gym put tape under the holds so the tape doesn't fall off (making the route MUCH harder hehe) but the trade off is such holds are more likely to spin.
anyway suck it up!
mike
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wandt
Jan 20, 2003, 5:47 PM
Post #30 of 31
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Registered: Jun 3, 2000
Posts: 341
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Also, look at where the bolt is in the hold, and where you weight it, and in which direction. if the hold looks like this:
111101
with the "0" being the bolt, and you crank hard on the "1111" part,, chances are, even if well tightened, it will spin. The hold torques the bolt to the left (counterclockwise), and like most threads, T-nuts and bolts are lefty-loosy, righty-tighty. There are holds out there that ALWAYS spin simply because of design flaws like this.
To remedy the situation:
1) Grab/weight the hold right above, or to the right of the bolt whenever possible.
2) drill a smalll hole through the hold in a discreet spot, and use a woodscrew to stabilize it. Many large "specialty" holds already have such a hole (ie. Pusher's "Boss" and "Le Beast").
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xanx
Jan 20, 2003, 5:54 PM
Post #31 of 31
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Registered: Aug 6, 2002
Posts: 1002
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yeah some holds just spin b/c of design. good idea drilling through them - any normal wood drill bit will work (get the right size of course) but most people are probably too lazy to do this (at least a my gym).
also it is sometimes impossible to put holds up so that they are weigted to the right of the bold, just b/c of the route design and such (i have never known setters to consider this at all).
mike
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