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iclimb512s
Nov 5, 2001, 1:39 AM
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Do you guys/gals think there will ever be trad inside?? I think that would be so cool, cause you could teach trad in a controld envierment.
GRANT
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paintinhaler
Nov 5, 2001, 2:14 AM
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well wood, metal or any other climbing material will bend flex or move. If you fall on a cam it will push out and become tighter in rock, as more weight is applied. If the wood bends or flexes the cam might slide out easyer. This is what I think. Trad inside would be cool and it might happen but I dont know how. Good ? man
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paintinhaler
Nov 5, 2001, 3:49 AM
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Thats true you have to remember that trad - is traditional climbing. You should ask your gym owner about trips he might set up where you can go and he/she teach it. You can trad lead but have a top rope for back up if your badly placed gear goes. That is the best way to learn safely I think.
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pianomahnn
Nov 5, 2001, 5:15 AM
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Safe Trad??? Not unless they make a concrete compound equal to that of rock. But, placing pro is very possible as long as the pieces of pro are not weighted.
My gym has a whole bunch of walls that could be mock trad climbed. We have super well made cracks, pockets, etc. I could get some pictures.
So, yeah.
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dustinap
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Nov 5, 2001, 5:27 AM
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There is a gym in Racho Cordova, California that lets you aid climbin in their gym, they have some sick cracks, and some chimny's.
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darkside
Nov 5, 2001, 5:56 AM
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Indoor trad- don't pooh pooh the idea, especially as it is already a reality. One of the gyms in Sheffield, England has holds that double as placement opportunities. Mostly these are nut placements but I think tricams, SLCD.s and possibly other pro can be used. Kinda cool but I imagine fears of liability will pretty much ensure it won't take off in North America. Too bad.
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iclimb512s
Nov 5, 2001, 10:08 PM
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well, it was just and idea. honestly, i dont really think it will happen either, the thought just popped up in my head.
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talons05
Nov 5, 2001, 10:34 PM
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I think you would have to build a building around existing rock, that or haul in a 50 ton chunk of rock. Of course, that's only a boulder...
AW
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darkside
Nov 6, 2001, 9:06 AM
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It's not so much a case of not going to happen (seeing as indoor trad already exists, yes it IS a reality) but rather one of cost to create a true trad feel to a climb with cracks, flakes, loose rock, a variety of pro required and a need to have an experienced eye to spot those fiddly placements. That's not to say you won't get gyms doing some of this, but I doubt it will be widespread.
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camhead
Nov 6, 2001, 10:43 PM
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I got bored last year at the campus rock gym where I was volunteering. Once, when nobody was there, I decided to check out cam placements in a practice crack.
Uhhhh... word to the wise, stucco doesn't hold falls that well.
However, isn't the whole purpose of trad to be OUT of a controlled environment? The whole element of the unknown is what excites me when I'm trad climbing. Maybe the placements won't hold, that is part of the excitement! Of course, thanks to rrradam, I am now scared of bolts even more.
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rck_climber
Nov 6, 2001, 10:59 PM
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Great idea, but I think it's unrealistic, for the numerous reasons that my fellow climbers above have pointed out.
Wish someone would prove me wrong though, that would be great.
Mick
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clipngo
Nov 15, 2001, 5:05 AM
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you can still practice trad indoors, just do it on a false lead. after you have placed some gear, have an experinced climber follow and check the placements. just remember, it doesnt automatically qualify you to lead outdoors, just a training tool.
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biff
Nov 15, 2001, 7:43 AM
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Here at the University of Calgary (canada) the climbing walls are aparentlty used all the time for placing, and loading Trad Pro. There are a few spots where the reinforced concrete has blown out of a crack from a poorly placed peice of pro, but a properly placed peice will hold a fall. It is a great envoronment to learn, I hope to take advantage of the facility over the winter. Also it is free climbing for students
[ This Message was edited by: biff on 2001-11-14 23:45 ]
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treyr
Jan 5, 2002, 8:40 PM
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Yeah I think so. They have already built a ice climbing wall so they probably will.
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joemor
Jan 12, 2002, 2:39 AM
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cool idea to learn on, tho outdoors is still quite different
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kahuna3602
Jan 14, 2002, 1:10 AM
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I don't really think you could call it trad climbing but I'm sure with the right walls you could practice placing pro. Traditional climbing is done outdoors, traditionally that is.
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