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spoon
Oct 27, 2002, 12:20 AM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
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Tell the people who work at your gym. They might just be able to help you.
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paintinhaler
Oct 27, 2002, 2:23 AM
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Registered: Dec 12, 2000
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Make your own route quit fallowing tape kid.
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marks
Oct 27, 2002, 4:35 PM
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the reason is because the walls are as realistic as possible,you rarely find dynos on routes.if you get strong enough you wont have to dyno.the easiest thing to do is do the routes that are there but just eliminate some holds
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foolry
Oct 27, 2002, 5:57 PM
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I beg to differ with you marks, I am aware of and have climbed several routes in the st. george area that would be next to impossible without a good little dyno or two. Plus it's a good way to climb higher grades than your strength allows, tough 3 move crux? Skip it with a dyno.
Dynos are fun, they require a lot of power with a ton of accuracy. Every gym shoud come equiped with at least a couple.
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marks
Oct 27, 2002, 6:47 PM
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you probably mean snatches or slaps.i bet i could do those route you talk about without dynoing.dynoing meaning completly leaving the rock.which i good at on boulder probs (v10)but as yet to do on a route
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pbjosh
Oct 27, 2002, 7:19 PM
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Dynoing does not mean completely leaving the rock. It means using dynamic movement. Any of the standard books like John Long's or something will tell you to keep as many points of contact as possible, even during a dyno. "Slaps" and such are small dynos as well. I've used dynamic movement to climb many many routes. Not full flight, but dynamic nonetheless.
josh
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biff
Oct 27, 2002, 7:43 PM
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Registered: Nov 5, 2001
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Seems like this tread has migrated into what is the definition of a dyno. so here are my thoughts:
I have come across 3 types of dynamic movement: deadpoints, slaps, dynos.
Deadpoint: a dynamic movement where the hold must be grabed at the moment when the directon of your movement reverses. Usually at least 2 of the original points of contact are maintained throughout the process, and recovering from a missed deadpoint is possible.
Slap: a dynamic movement to a hold similar to a deadpoint but usualy only one origial point of contact is maintained, and chances of recovering from a missed slap are minimal at best.
Dyno: a full leap where no original points of contact are maintained, there is no chance of recovery from a missed dyno. for an example of a dyno check out the clip from my digital camera below.
The clip will play in windows media player if you downlad and install divx5 from www.divx.com
here is the movie
now lets see this thread get interesting
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beyond_gravity
Oct 27, 2002, 9:05 PM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2002
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I fully agree with Biff on this one.
Dyno's have to be V10? Hardly.
I've stuck that one in biff's video, and I only boulder V3.
Dyno is short for dynamic, so technically Deadpoints and slaps are dyno's as well. With all these new modern terms, a dyno is genrally when you lose all contact with the wall.
There is allways going to be someone that will disagree, but does it really matter what they are called?
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xanx
Oct 28, 2002, 12:04 AM
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Registered: Aug 6, 2002
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alright this is dumb if u ask me. the gym i go to, i know some v10/v11 level sponsored climbers who set dynos sometimes. for the ABS comp we just held, they set a 9 foot dyno. this crap about deadpoint vs. slap vs. dyno is just dumb, it doesn't matter at all! if u like dyno's, do them. if not, stick to the technical stuff. to each his own.
mike
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