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thun
Dec 24, 2003, 2:26 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 2003
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Over time at the gym I've noticed something about the way the routes at my local gym are typically set (referring to bouldering routes). Often times, the routes will favor the right hand/arm...by that I mean: alot of the power moves often lead with the right hand, diagonal routes will typically diagonal to the right (and those that go left typically require a cross-over with the right hand), etc. Not that I'm complaining all that much since I'm a righty, but does anyone else ever notice this? Or am I just inhaling too much chalk?
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j_ung
Dec 24, 2003, 2:44 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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I suppose it could be. That's one of the things I consider when I set, especially when it comes to clipping holds on lead routes. Indoor climbs tend to take on the personality of the setter's climbing style. For instance the majority of the regulars in "my" gym swear that they can tell who set what just by climbing it.
Of course it could be any number of other things, too. Maybe you're mistaken, or maybe you've only coincidentally climbed the routes that are "right handed".
I don't know if you should point it out to the setter. We're notoriously cranky when it comes to taking criticism :x .
j_ung
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thun
Dec 24, 2003, 2:53 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 2003
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In reply to: For instance the majority of the regulars in "my" gym swear that they can tell who set what just by climbing it.
I'd almost believe it. There's a setter at my gym whose routes I can always pick out.
In reply to: Of course it could be any number of other things, too. Maybe you're mistaken, or maybe you've only coincidentally climbed the routes that are "right handed".
Heh, you might be on to something there...
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djnibs
Dec 29, 2003, 7:47 PM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2002
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Hey, now that I think about it I see that a lot of the climbs at the gym where I work at right handed. I don't think that any of the climbs I have put up favour either hand, but there are a couple good routes that seam to favour your right hand.
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miuralover
Dec 29, 2003, 8:59 PM
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Registered: Jul 9, 2003
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I routeset quite a bit and I've noticed that alot of holds are carved to fit the right hand. Most of the cool shapes that is, obviously a plain edge or pocket can be used with either hand. That may be a reason why the hard or dynamic moves lead with the right hand.
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