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seanbon15
Jul 21, 2004, 6:09 PM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2004
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At our local gym where i work, we set a number of new routes each month. Although im newer at setting routes, i was wondering wat advice anyone could give upon setting up routes. I know that reachy doesnt mean harder, but beyond that im sort of lost. I also dont know how to make any climbs that would be very challanging for anyone better than myself. Please help!
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taino
Jul 21, 2004, 6:20 PM
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Use smaller holds, and challenge the balance and flexibility of the climbers. In addition, make finding the proper sequence a challenge. You can use big holds, but make the climbers have to make the moves in a certain way; that makes it a bit more difficult.
All the routes I set deal with using good footwork and route-finding. Even the shorter members of my gym can climb my routes, while the taller folks find them challenging because I frequently take advantage of the fact that I'm short; tall folks find themselves needing good flexibility to ascend.
Lastly, remember that your routes aren't going to please everyone, and everyone will find different ways to climb it. Don't stress over it. Set the route for yourself.
T
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anykineclimb
Jul 22, 2004, 1:46 PM
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Don't make "ladders" ie: go straight up.
Short traverses, R/L angling climbs are more interesting.
try not to make a route hard by just shrinking the holds.
try to use holds specific to the move you want. like if you want a pinch, be sure it can't be used as an edge, or has other features they can utilize.
Also think of a single move you want in the route(gastone, drop knee, lie back, rose...) and figure out how to "force" the move on climbers.
This does take a lot of practice, but keep at it. Good thing is route setting is fun.
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j_ung
Jul 22, 2004, 2:21 PM
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In reply to: Lastly, remember that your routes aren't going to please everyone, and everyone will find different ways to climb it. Don't stress over it.
This is very good wisdom. However, I generally take a slightly different approach to setting as Tai. Here's my advice:
1. I know this sounds weird, but truly good routes virtually set themselves. Try to set logical flowy routes and let the climbers dictate their own trickery. As Tai said, "everyone will find different ways to climb it." Setting sequential, tricky moves on purpose is one of the hardest skills to master. At your stage of the game, if you attempt to dictate the way your route must be climbed, you'll more often end up with contrived crap.
2. Let the wall's "natural" features dictate the line as much as possible; e.g., trust whomever designed your wall and set according to the "guidelines" that have been laid in front of you. Again, going against the grain on this is a difficult skill to get right.
3. Strive for consistency and gradual increases in difficulty, rather than sudden, punishing cruxes. If your route is: easy, easy, easy, easy, hard crux, easy, easy, it won't be as popular as easy, easy, a little harder, harder, crux, hard, hard, crux.
4. Do you also set lead routes? Make damn sure that clipping the rope is never the crux.
5. Most important: PEOPLE. DON"T. LIKE. SANDBAGS. Don't be afraid to come back later and tweak or regrade as necessary. I know it's kinda lame, but a big part of what makes an indoor route fun for people is a number that is consistent with other routes in the gym.
There's far more, but that should help you get started. Please remember that the above is very general advice. There are exceptions to everything, and this case, multiple exceptions.
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aikibujin
Jul 22, 2004, 3:07 PM
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Registered: Dec 28, 2003
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In reply to: Don't make "ladders" ie: go straight up. try not to make a route hard by just shrinking the holds. Also think of a single move you want in the route(gastone, drop knee, lie back, rose...) and figure out how to "force" the move on climbers.
Great advice. I'd also like to add "try not to make a route hard by increasing the reach." I can't speak from a route setters perspective (I've set all but just three routes, only for fun), but from a climber's point of view, I hate getting on a route that feels like a bunch of holds slapped together just for the sake of getting you to the top. I like a route that's like a puzzle, you have to solve it by working out a specific way to climb it, and everyone may have a different way because of different body shapes/strengths/weaknesses. Also, having some specific idea behind a route, like this route will work on people's balance, this one will force people to work on lock-offs, this one will let you work on dynos... basically I'm just repeating what anykineclimb said, but I think he gave some really good advice.
Route setting is fun, and a good way to force you to really think about climbing techniques. Setting an interesting route is hard, takes a lot of experience and talent.
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