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angelibanez
Sep 30, 2003, 7:24 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2003
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I'm just finishing my home wall :D and I wanted to know your experiences on setting up problems. You see .....my problem is that where I live in a place where the are very few "established" problems. There is a lot of rock :D in Puerto Rico but not a lot of climbers :( (or should I be :D) . So I don't know how to make problems that are a bit above my limit (since I don't know what my limit is) I don't want to set up some problem only to be trying a v16 without knowing it. Any guide lines would be greatly apreciated. Thanx
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vegastradguy
Sep 30, 2003, 7:29 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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set up problems by doing one move at a time. so, set up your start hold and foot jibs, then do a move to somewhere on your wall, put your hand there and either mark it with chalk or remember. then go find a fun looking hold. dont forget to set feet for your problems. set the new hold. get on that, repeat.
challenge yourself, but make them doable. as you get better, your problems will get harder....
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vertical_reality
Sep 30, 2003, 7:31 PM
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Registered: Jun 19, 2002
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You should ask other climbers to set up routes for you. Get a bunch of guys over, then let everyone make up their own problems and let everyone else try them.
Oh, and you're obligated to supply the beer.
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overlord
Sep 30, 2003, 8:14 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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just put holds in randomly and spin them so they determine the nalge themselves. that way youll get the best routes.
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orangekyak
Sep 30, 2003, 8:33 PM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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here's a couple suggestions ...
If you have friends over, play add-on. You take turns adding holds to challenge each other. The person who adds the hold must make the move successfully before the hold stays on the route. This is a fun way to make routes.
Another way is to try to duplicate climbs you see outdoors. Try to duplicate laybacks and gastons and cross-throughs so that you're not just climbing up.
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karmaklimber
Sep 30, 2003, 10:07 PM
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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Route setting is hard. Damn hard. Especially when you're trying to set something that's quality, not a plastic pile of choss. I wouldn't try to duplicate anything that's already established unless its a project at the local gym/crag that you're working on. Otherwise, try to set problems that vary in motion.
Holds are positive if "pulled" on in a certain direction(s); you'll use the hold to the best of your advantage if you can orient your body to pull on the hold in that direction. Ideally, handholds should dictate your body positioning whilst your feet move your body to that position and keep you balanced.
For example, with a hold you can lieback on (assuming its positive facing right), you'd get the max out of the hold if you can pull on it from the left; thus, it'd be more efficient if you get your body to the left. For stability and balance, might be good to flag a foot right.
Different moves require different aspects of body positioning - hips in/out, heels high/low, flag left/right, etc...
It wouldn't hurt to try to study the different climbing movements and body positions (liebacks, gastons, mantles, etc...) and find out where ideal spots for holds should be. Based on that, you can throw in varients to account for the varients found outside.
Its linking move after move in a quality fashion thats the hard part of route setting. (Note: quality doesn't always mean easy; you can have quality moves that are hard to do). I wouldn't worry much about ratings at your home gym, as in trying to set a V4 right off the bat, or whatever. Personally, I think that 1) it'll detract your setting in terms of difficulty instead of range of movement and motion and 2) it'll probably be you and only you using the wall for the most part.
Try to vary in the types of holds you use like jugs, crimps, slopers, open-gripped holds, pinches, clumpish things, flakes, etc... (that is if its in your budget to buy them. If not you can make your own holds) as well as the direction they face.
Hope it helps. Climb safe
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pianomahnn
Oct 1, 2003, 1:02 AM
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Registered: Feb 17, 2001
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Setting routes depends entirely upon the setter's ability to visualize the route and create flow.
Some people have it, and some people don't.
I've set a fair number of routes in my day, and the vast majority of routes I've set were done without climbing them as I set them. I look at the wall, then my holds, and decided what could be done with what I had.
I need to answer your question. . .
Use holds that are above your limit. That's the best way to set routes which are above your current ability. You can always create easy problems, and then replace with increasingly difficult holds as you progress.
Have fun. :)
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