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Routes, Holds, and Duration
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c_kryll


May 8, 2003, 9:44 PM
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Routes, Holds, and Duration
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I'm curious to find out how long other gyms keep their routes up, and/or do they wash their old holds. In my gym we rotate our routes and no route is kept up longer then 1yr, and on average about 10months. We also wash our holds in a dishwasher once they come down off the wall or after being used on a boulder problem.

The reason I ask is that after visiting a few other gyms in different states I found their holds to be greasy and the routes incomplete or very old.

Chris


foyboy


May 9, 2003, 7:16 AM
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At the 2 Vertical Worlds that I climb at in the Seattle area, the climbs are generally up for 3 months, sometimes a little less, sometimes a little more. The holds are washed whenever they are taken down from a route. I can't remember the number, but the one in Seattle has 110+ routes up at a time? Your routes are up for nearly a year, how many routes do you have?


majoringinclimbing


May 9, 2003, 11:38 AM
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I can't imagine having routes up for a year. Three months at the most but we do not have an real large wall. Still I cannot imagine have a route up for a year. It can get boring having the same routes up that long.


paulv7


May 9, 2003, 12:44 PM
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At Earth Treks it seems every 3-4 months they change the routes. When they were building the new gym they didn't change the routes for along time. There were some routes up for over a year. Recently it seems they have started changing half the walls at a time. So every month or two they will switch out half the walls. Still get 3-4 months to work a route. Keeps the gym from getting old.


c_kryll


May 9, 2003, 5:26 PM
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On average we have about 75 routes up. I try to set at least one new route every week and the other route setter also try's todo the same, we have a member who comes in and set's occasionally, but no Full-Time route setters as alot of my time is taken up in running the gym, giving lessons etc.

Chris


foyboy


May 9, 2003, 6:40 PM
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C_Kryll, can I see some pic's of the Gym you run? I may be headed out to Penn for a weeding this summer, so I might get to drop by.


czarcastic


May 9, 2003, 8:46 PM
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At Coyote Rock gym in Ottawa, the climbs are usually up for no more than 3-4 months, but sometimes longer or less depending if it is good or a piece of crap. We also usually try to wash a bunch of holds before putting up any new routes. Personally if I'm setting, I like to wash most of the holds, especially the slopey ones that will get all gumbed up in a matter of weeks.


rockzen


May 10, 2003, 2:44 AM
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The gym I frequent changes the routes about every 3-4 months. If a route is never being climbed, it might get taken down earlier. If a route is especially popular, sometimes it is left up for quite a long time.

There are a couple of routes that look impressive but aren't that hard or technical. These routes are especially popular for those guys (non-climbers) that drop by the gym with their girlfriends looking to try and impress the ladies. These routes seem to stick around for a long time simply because they draw in cash for the gym. I laugh my ass off when they fall while trying to show off... :lol:

RockZen


anasazifan


May 26, 2003, 10:04 PM
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Re: Routes, Holds, and Duration [In reply to]
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The gym I climb at is decently sized and they break the walls up into sections. Probably about 6 or 7 sections for roped climbing and the bouldering section is in 2 sections. 1 sections, sometimes 2, gets changed per week. We have approx. 114 routes and 82 boulder problems.


pisceian


May 27, 2003, 4:47 PM
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Peak Experiences in Richmond, VA (awesome gym I might add) changes the routes and boulder problems about every 3 months. Boulder problems might be changed a bit more frequently for small competitions. I've also never felt a greasy hold, so I guess they wash them. They also sell used holds that are still in pretty good condition.

-Pam


neadamthal


May 27, 2003, 4:59 PM
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In reply to:
We have approx. 114 routes and 82 boulder problems.

approximately?!? wish i could approximate that accurately!


anasazifan


May 27, 2003, 6:19 PM
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Wells, that is what the route board said. I'm not sure if the route board has been updated within the last week or two though. :wink:


merlin


May 29, 2003, 3:11 AM
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yearh, i think my gym changes them whenever they get time, they are busy building yet another bouldering section, so not much setting is being done. but as far as i know, some routes are essentially there for an indefinite period of time, especially alot of the easier routes, that people use as confidence builders, as you wouldnt really ever want to climb them again, so it doesnt matter.

 

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