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colin
Nov 21, 2001, 5:07 AM
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compclimber
Nov 21, 2001, 5:48 AM
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Was this a new route setters problem, has he/she ever set in the gym before?
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saltspringer
Nov 21, 2001, 9:57 AM
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Don't worry about it...if it's a V8 by concensus then you've just improved 4 grades, if it's not a V8 then you still did a new problem onsight, whatever the grade
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jcs
Nov 21, 2001, 10:12 AM
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Hey!
Thats pretty cool- onsighting v8! I cant even onsight v5! I remember when i onsighted my first .11, I thought "no way thats really 5.11, I cant climb that hard!" Weird. Now when people ask how hard you boulder you can say v8! I guess this shows how silly concentrating on grades can sometimes be! Good job, keep it up!
JCS
JCS
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nikegirl
Nov 22, 2001, 8:30 AM
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I think today, I've decided not to pay attention to the ratings, so much. I think their a mind f*&k, anyway. I will try it. Get to a problem, work on it, until I can't anymore. Bouldering outdoors, I don't know the ratings. I just go to it...try it. I'm still struggling with the route setters, at my gym. I'm petite. 5'4. My body weight(115) somehow, factors in, I still can't figure how...But, the routes are set for more or less an inch or two, in height or in longer arm span. I tend to have to struggle, to send anyway. VO or ratings of 5.9 and up.
Mess's with my mind too much. i just go to it.
T
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stewbing
Nov 22, 2001, 5:24 PM
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Nikegirl, good decision on not looking at ratings, climb, climb anything and everything regardless of what the rating says. All you ever have to do is challenge yourself and not get thrown by the grade.
climb hard
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paulc
Nov 22, 2001, 6:37 PM
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Since you have climbed v4, you tell us, did it feel like v4 or V8. People screw things up all the time. Especially on grades. That is why top climbers are very hesitant to grade things, because someone else could figure out a better sequence and then that 14c could be 14a.
Paul
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jds100
Nov 22, 2001, 7:41 PM
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Nikegirl: one thing you might try to get around on reachy routes is to smear your toes/ball of foot directly on the flat face of the wall, as an intermediate smear/pressure hold as you move up.
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nikegirl
Nov 22, 2001, 11:12 PM
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I tend to forget, or think, that there are specific
"rules". Maybe there is specific technique...or taped handholds, or jib placements.
I don't have the "rules"
down, if there are any perse'...Toe tapping. Or smearing, or for that matter, flagging...I completly forget to do, these manuvers half the time.
I'm learning. I'm learning so much from all the input, to my and other people's questions. Thanks.
T
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stewbing
Nov 23, 2001, 3:25 PM
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hey Nike, all that stuff comes with time. Remember there are no rules. flagging and body position comes with time. You really shouldn't have to think about that stuff it's always in the back of your mind and then it will come naturally. Always climb within yourself, but also challenge yourself at times to improve and gain confidence.
Climb Hard
[ This Message was edited by: stewbing on 2001-11-23 07:26 ]
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colin
Nov 23, 2001, 9:55 PM
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jcs
Nov 24, 2001, 3:57 AM
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Nice advice technician- think I'll try it. I'm stuck in Bangkok until Monday- going to try and find the local gym today... tide me over until I can climb on Railey!
JCS
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kam_ill_eon
Dec 5, 2001, 6:14 PM
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Congrats on the climb! I'd go with your first instinct and seek the Dali Lama! Don't worry about the rating, if it didn't challenge you too much, chances are it wasn't a true v8. Happens all the time.
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gregarion
Dec 13, 2001, 4:53 AM
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Hey NIke girl you can always hope that you'll get to set something, and when you do make all the moves short to tiny little crimpers, so all the big guys have to scrunch up to get them.
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nikegirl
Dec 13, 2001, 5:41 AM
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I don't have the vision quest for setting...It's hard enough to put my brain to work, on where I'm mapping out my moves, before I climb.
I did try the climbing that Technician recommended.
Fiend recommended it to me, also.
I loved it...did 15 minutes on the wall...talk about, awesome! Laps... what ever holds...crack climbed. Downclimbed. Talk about dripping in sweat.
Loved it.
Endurance.
T
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clmbngfiend
Dec 13, 2001, 6:46 AM
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I don't really pay much attention to grades. I have my own grading system. It consists of three seperate grades. 5.easy, 5.fun, and 5.hard
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pianomahnn
Dec 17, 2001, 5:07 AM
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coach
Dec 17, 2001, 7:11 PM
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NikeGirl,
One thing to remember is that in order to do a move like flagging naturally you need to find a sequence that requires it and perform it over and over. Its a lot like riding a bike; at first you have to think about what to do but you practice over and over until your body performs the movements, leaning, turning, pedalling all at once without thinking. In climbing it is the same, practice a difficult or new move like flagging over and over until it becomes automatic. You come to a move that requires flagging and your body just performs the move without you having to think about it. (it's call imprinting)
Climb On
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talons05
Dec 17, 2001, 7:36 PM
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I like clmbngfiend's grade system...
AW
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treyr
Jan 5, 2002, 8:35 PM
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Yeah on the outdoor wall there is a 5.12 I can do I think whoever graded it was messed up or they are a midget!
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airscape
Jan 5, 2002, 8:59 PM
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I have noticed, that there are certain moves, even if they are graded far beyond my abilties that I can just do naturaly, and then there are others that are below what I climb, and I struggle my ass off to do them.
At one of the crags here, there is one climb that is a 23 I pulled it off like it was nothing(I usaully only climb around 20/21), then just around the corner at the same crag there is a 19, that I can't do for the life of me (Though I think it is sandbagged), but other people that climb on a par with me can.
Btw sorry for the ausie rating system, I have no idea what those grades are in YDS.
I think 23 is a 5.11(something) prob b or c
and a 19 is 5.10 a or b
LIFES A PITCH!!!
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