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# of holds....
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crack_climber


May 17, 2003, 6:02 AM
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# of holds....
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I am in the planning process of building a bouldering wall in my garage. I don't have a lot of money to spend. I was curious if anyone had suggestions on the number of holds I should use per 4'x8' sheet of ply wood. I want optimal performance/most cost effective. Any suggestions are appreciated...


cadaverchris


May 17, 2003, 10:03 AM
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i have a woodie in my garage- don't know how many holds are on it, but its enough to keep me happy when i'm home.

just make sure you get a nice variety- so you can move em and mix em and always play on something fresh


and those hand jibs are really affordable too- and if you have a power drill/screw driver you can move em around as often as you like too

-chris
ps - you can see a pic of my woodie by checking out my posted pics


orangekyak


May 17, 2003, 2:36 PM
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I think it depends a lot on the design of the woody. Near the bottom you'll want only foot holds - cheap screw-ons are great, because you can save a little cash by not putting t-nuts in the bottom three feet or so. If the angle is steeper than 45 degrees at the bottom, you might want bigger foot jibs down there. Just remember that smaller footholds on overhang helps build core strength in your abs.

If your wall is steep you'll benefit from a good mix of micro jugs and hand jibs. throw a couple bigger jugs on there for variety and you are all set. So how many for each 8x4? It depends. I'd say it averages 30 per panel on a fully stocked wall. I started off my two-panel wall with 46 and wished I had more. Bought five more hand holds and wished I had a few more foot holds.

I'll probably get 20 more as the weather cools next winter - maybe ask for them for christmas. If you wanna check out my wall click here.


redpoint73


May 17, 2003, 5:14 PM
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Try buying sets from Voodoo, Pusher, and Groperz. They are generous with their sets -- they give you lots of big and medium holds (they don't cheap out and give you a bunch of chips). Voodoo in particular has many novel and well-designed holds. Stay away from Nicros and Metolius, you've grabbed their holds a million times at the gym and they don't make new molds all that often.

Many hold companies have "holds of the month" clubs. You pay $20-30 a month and get new holds every month.


straightedgeteen


May 18, 2003, 5:01 PM
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as many as you can buy


hishopper


May 18, 2003, 6:22 PM
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Typically 1 hold every 2sq ft is sufficient
Add 10 to 15% for outcroppings

Sq ft x 2.25 = tnuts


taraus_de_bull


May 18, 2003, 6:45 PM
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hey, i just built a woodie too. and 2.25 per square feet is good. put don't cheat out and put no t-nuts below 3 feet, just do 1 per square feet. trust me, their will be times when you won't a good foot. buy as many holds as possible and look into making your own, as you will see nicros, metolious, voodoo and pusher all at your gym. making your own holds give make your wall funner then buying them.


morganicclimbing


May 21, 2003, 6:54 PM
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http://www.morganicclimbing.com/WallHelp/Howmanyholds.asp

Here is a link to some pictures we took to give you an idea of how many holds per sheet of plywood. Good luck with your wall.

 

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