 |

medic8
Sep 3, 2004, 10:00 PM
Post #1 of 10
(2212 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2004
Posts: 10
|
For those of you with a construction background I have a small question. I have finished the plans for my wall and have decided on an adjustable wall 12ft high by 8 ft wide. So anyway here is my question. If I use chains to adjust the angle, where would be the best plce to anchor them? It is an unfinished garage so I have access to the trusses (2x4 chords w/ gusssets) that are 16" on center. Would it be better to anchor into the trusses or into the vert wall behind the adjustable wall? If anyone has a better idea than chain I am all ears. If pictures would help please let me know. Thanks in advance
|
|
|
 |
 |

roboclimber
Sep 3, 2004, 10:37 PM
Post #2 of 10
(2212 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2004
Posts: 138
|
With chains alone you will have a hard time trying to dampen vibrations coming off the wall. If any of your sequences involve dynamic moves you could generate a tremendous dynamic load on the anchors. I'd cantilever from the main wall and tie in to the overhead trusses with 2 x 6's. Two years ago we (my medical school buddies and I) finished a wall that is kicked out about 105 - 110 degrees. Although this angle is pretty benign, this is how we handled it and it seems to work well; the wall is stable, the framing is fairly light weight, and the system was easy to construct.
|
|
|
 |
 |

adam
Sep 4, 2004, 12:42 AM
Post #3 of 10
(2212 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 16, 2004
Posts: 32
|
I'm building a similar wall, although it's 12' wide by 8' high and my garage is finished. I was worried that the 2x4 stud won't be enough to hold the wall, and even if they do, will the 12' wide wall flex if it is only anchored at the 2 edges? As far as I can see my options are to: 1. Sink anchors into several studs and try to equalize the load on them [not sure how to do that with chains] 2. Make the wall self supporting Any other suggestions?
|
|
|
 |
 |

lnmego
Sep 4, 2004, 3:10 AM
Post #4 of 10
(2212 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2004
Posts: 72
|
The key is to tie into several places, like the last guy said--but not with more that one chain per side. They key to doing it is securing a couple 2x6s that bridge several of your studs (the ceiling ones most likely). You connect your chain to the the bridge and it pulls them all instead of just one. After that, the key is to mount the chain closest to the place that you'd prefer to be holding it if your buddy were on the wall (don't try it, though.)--and I'd go roof instead of wall if it's close. A picture would really help. Consider that fact that nothing you are tieing into was designed for the loads you are placing on them. Re-inforcement is important. Also, self supporting isn't bad. My wall is partially self supporting and partially dependent on the structure. -LNMEgo
|
|
|
 |
 |

treyfrancisclimbs
Sep 4, 2004, 4:28 AM
Post #5 of 10
(2212 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2004
Posts: 170
|
I actually just built a wall that sounds very similar to your idea, and i think you mainly have to figure out what spot could carry the most weight. i put a 2x6 on the top of the stud wall with 22 4inch screws, and then drilled holes into it for the chain anchors. then run a few 2x4's from the studs it is attached to back to the trusses. i put two chains on the 2x6 and then ran a saftey chain from the middle of the wall back behind my main anchor point to a completely different anchor that has no other load pulling on it. with the weight of the wall, there really isn't too much movement on dyno's and such, and it seems to distribute the load pretty evenly. i am having a hard time picturing exactly what your set up is, and mine is on the outside wall of a garage, so it is a bit of a different scenario. i will put some photos on here if you want, but someone will have to tell me how to attach them to my post.
|
|
|
 |
 |

medic8
Sep 5, 2004, 6:53 PM
Post #6 of 10
(2212 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2004
Posts: 10
|
Thanks for the imput. What I understand so far, is that I should string a 2x6 sleeper across the trusses ( it will also tie into a stud wall on the left). Then tie the sleeper into the stud wall behind it. The anchors for the chains will then go ito the 2x6. Sound good? There are pics here of what I have to work with. http://www.geocities.com/poshemt/ medic8wall.html Any other advice is always welcome, since the wife is afraid of a catastrophic failure. Thanks again
|
|
|
 |
 |

medic8
Sep 5, 2004, 6:54 PM
Post #7 of 10
(2212 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2004
Posts: 10
|
oops, double post
|
|
|
 |
 |

medic8
Sep 7, 2004, 5:32 PM
Post #8 of 10
(2212 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2004
Posts: 10
|
Let me ask another question. Does anyone see any problem if the anchor point for the wall is below the top of the wall? The stud wall is 9ft tall and I plan on having the wall 12 ft tall. I have seen designs where the force pulls down and out, but never up and out. Thanks again. So is all the trouble of an adjustable wall worth it?
|
|
|
 |
 |

jorian_nl
Sep 7, 2004, 7:36 PM
Post #9 of 10
(2212 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 27, 2004
Posts: 190
|
At the website of entre-prises they drawnings of a adjustable wall called cyberboulder They also have routes on that website for that wall. look here http://ep.entre-prises.com/EF/home.lasso
|
|
|
 |
 |

lnmego
Sep 7, 2004, 8:10 PM
Post #10 of 10
(2212 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2004
Posts: 72
|
Based on my understanding of your pcitures, I would put a few more of those braces like the two you have place. Then I would put a 2x6 behind it and attach the chains to it. I wouldn't go into the wall unless you reinforce the wall-ceiling joints.
|
|
|
 |
|
|