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backtrack
Feb 21, 2002, 6:41 PM
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the newest trend among our indoor wall group has been to climb up a route, then down, as we only have a 30 ft. wall... as interesting as it is to do, especially for those overhangs, etc., it doesn't seem to be too much exercise, though i've been told it builds endurance. is this true, or is it just another fun curiousity in which to delve?
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vaness
Feb 22, 2002, 11:59 PM
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are you talking about doing laps? it does build endurence
the way i do it is i find a reallr easy route and climb up then climb down and count that for one lap and i usully do 10
but downclimbing an overhang? never done that. but it does seem like it would be interesting.
its not easy either...its acctully kinda hard if the holds are far away cuz you kinda have to fall and catch he hold
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treyr
Feb 25, 2002, 12:29 PM
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I have to admit downclimbing is sometimes harder than climbing. Except that it tears up your knees. But it helps your technique
Trob
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hendicrimpin
Feb 25, 2002, 3:44 PM
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at my local wall we do laps on a 65 footer - after five laps you're arms are screaming. i spent a few weeks building up my number of laps, and then hit a local crag...my endurance on long leads shocked me! my confidence increased, and i was more fluid. Conclusion: laps rock!
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vaness
Feb 28, 2002, 1:47 AM
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at the gym i go to i do 6 laps on an 30 foot wall then i go boulder for a while and then go back and do 9
i tried to to laps on a 77 foot wall but there were some big reaches and i was having trouble on the way down so i only did one
they help a lot after a while
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apollodorus
Feb 28, 2002, 2:21 AM
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If you make the move from the indoor gym to trad climbing, you'll be thankful for the downclimbing experience. Probably nothing is as gripping as going off-route on a steep, runout face climb, and having to downclimb to get back on line. Some downclimbs are easy, though. In really wide offwidths, all you have to do is sort of ooze down them while maintaining some control of your speed.
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woodse
Feb 28, 2002, 2:35 AM
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I just began doing this and I'm a huge fan. Climbs are no longer just 50 feet but 100! Now I get to the top and I'm like "hmm I'm halfway there." I think that it probably helps with footwork and strength too. Oh yeah did I mention endurance?
woodsE
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c-horse
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Feb 28, 2002, 3:43 AM
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I totally agree, and chime in as a downclimb fan. The thing that I would add is that you don't want to drop onto the lower holds, you want to carefully lower onto them. And this does include overhanging stuff. From my own personal experience, I believe that this has helped me with
1. Footwork - my placements are more confident on the way up now, because I've learned how to place them on the way down.
2. Creative moves - some sequences that never occurred to me on the way up seem very natural on the way down (if you are doing it static!), and then trying them on the way back up again is very cool - I've increased my repertoire quite a bit this way.
3. Balance - going back through the route backwards with a nice fluid motion (don't let gravity jerk you down) requires you to think about where your center is, and carefully shift the load from foot to foot, and hand to hand. You become much more conscious of where your hips need to be, and then you become unconcious of it (you just naturally start shifting your weight where it's supposed to be).
4. Core Strength - this fluid, controlled downclimbing really does require a lot of active manipulation of your center of gravity (because you do NOT want to throw for a hold, or drop down onto a hold). Doing that means lots of flagging, egyptians, frogging, pulling your hips in, twist locks - every trick in the book. Remember, the problems were designed for going up. All this twisting really builds up your core strength.
5. Power - all this downclimbing invariably involves doing a lot of "negative reps" on the muscles in your arms and legs. You are uncurling, and down-squatting. And these negatives are helping you build power.
6. Endurance - as mentioned before. At the top of the route, you're "halfway done".
7. Fun - with a limited number of routes in the gym for weeknight climbing, downclimbing doubles the number of problems for you.
hth
C
[ This Message was edited by: c-horse on 2002-02-27 19:49 ]
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jmlangford
Feb 28, 2002, 6:03 AM
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All the above is true but appolodorus is the only one that has mentioned the safety factor of learning to downclimb. Especially if you are on a climb somewhere and you HAVE to downclimb to extricate yourself from a sticky situation or an emergency of some sort. My dad, who was a climbing ranger for the NPS, said I should practice downclimbing almost as much as climbing up-it has saved his arse on more than one occasion.
[ This Message was edited by: jmlangford on 2002-02-27 22:05 ]
[ This Message was edited by: jmlangford on 2002-02-27 22:06 ]
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orestes1724
Feb 28, 2002, 4:45 PM
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i downclimb in the gym sometimes, me and my sister do laps. is that what you mean?
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jmlangford
Mar 1, 2002, 4:07 AM
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Here is a related thread with good advice on the virtues of downclimbing.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=3206&forum=23&12
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maddie
Mar 4, 2002, 9:26 AM
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The only time i've ever had to down climb was when we couldnt find the keys to get in & we down climbed off the balcony! I do like this idea of laps though, i am going to try it!
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treyr
Mar 5, 2002, 12:35 AM
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Yeah it is a good skill if you ever need to do it in a emergency situation . But it is a good way to tear up your knees
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