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janiszewski11
Aug 11, 2003, 2:37 AM
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Registered: Feb 21, 2003
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I'm wondering what people's indoor "dream" hold is (that most likely doesn't exist). Mine would be a finger-jam on the bottom of the hold with a mono finger hold above it. Then the route would force one to jam and then cross into the mono. I'd appreciate pratical ideas that could be fabricated out of wood.
-Chris
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cbeltrano
Aug 11, 2003, 3:48 AM
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Registered: May 22, 2003
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kind of obscure but i'll bite
how about a big fat lip just positive enough to dyno to at a lets say 15 - 30 degree angle......and maybe a couple 2-3 finger pockets on the underside of the hold..
not sure how you'd do that with wood but i'm sure it could be done.
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overlord
Aug 11, 2003, 11:15 AM
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a nasty big sloper.
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flyinghatchet
Aug 11, 2003, 3:21 PM
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Moved to Indoor Gyms by flyinghatchet.
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morganicclimbing
Aug 12, 2003, 2:58 AM
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Registered: May 10, 2002
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If you want to see your killer ideas in plastic let me know. I'm sure we could hook you up with some free holds or something. It's pretty fun to see your shapes duplicated and used all over the world. :D
I have had a couple questions about the above post so I guess I will explain a little. Basically if you have a great idea for a hold that you want to duplicate you can send it (the actual shape) to us and we will make it into a mold and add it to our line of holds. We are always adding new shapes. Shaping is the best part about making holds so we aren't actively seeking people to make our shapes for us but it was an idea that popped into my head when I read this thread. You can click on our banner ad here at RC or send me an email at Lance@MorganicClimbing.com for information on how to make the shapes and we can work out a deal for some free holds.
Lance
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janiszewski11
Aug 12, 2003, 3:33 AM
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That would be great Lance, I'll contact you guys at morganic when I have my ideas (hand drawn drafts) fully drafted with at least a scaled prototype.
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janiszewski11
Aug 12, 2003, 3:41 AM
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And I also have a question which is, Do you guys have a slick surface material to force a certain part of the hold to be used?
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xanx
Aug 12, 2003, 4:36 AM
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i have never seen the "2 finger sloper" - an open hand sloper (no thumb catches or anything) for only 2 fingers.
giant, barely-holdable slopers are always fun. i think stone age makes a big dish sloper that is horrible even on a vertical wall. its here under "holds" "features" "4XL" "Collosus"
a 2 finger pinch would also be pretty cool - make it so u can't crimp it or use more than 2 fingers.
also, what would be great would be a set of holds (all kinds - crimps, slopers, jugs, pinches...) that would be on a cube sort of. take a cube, slice it diagonally so if u put if up against a vertical wall with the back flat up, u would have a 90' corner facing you (the top side would be angled at 45' and the bottom would be 45' overhanging). The "hold" would be placed on one of these faces. This way, if you put the hold on a 45' overhang, it would be like the hold is on a flat wall - this way u will be pulling straight down on the hold instead of pulling perpendicular to it. alternately, u could put the hold on a vertical wall so that u have to pull out on the hold instead of down. It doesn't have to be a 45' angle (perfect cube) either. how cool would that be!!
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morganicclimbing
Aug 12, 2003, 4:08 PM
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Ya, we could do the slick surface thing. They make great comp holds.
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hatice
Aug 12, 2003, 6:58 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2003
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that slick hold idea is sick, great idea let us know how it works out
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murf
Aug 12, 2003, 8:11 PM
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Registered: Mar 15, 2002
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Ummmm - yeah.
Slick holds have been done. Just like, PureBase, and more. As the website says " the first, the best" - VooDoo!
http://www.voodooholds.com/
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morganicclimbing
Aug 12, 2003, 9:13 PM
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Yes, the slick hold idea has been done and yes Voodoo was the first. They do make great holds. Hopefully we weren't misunderstood as saying it was a new idea. The question was just asked if we could do it as well and the answer was yes.
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gregman
Aug 19, 2003, 1:58 AM
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Registered: Aug 18, 2003
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a huge sloper that spits everyone off
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collegekid
Aug 19, 2003, 2:24 AM
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2 finger sloper has been done...simply flip a pocket over (i'm not sure which brand hold it was, but i did this at my climbing gym).
I like holds that aren't obvious...like you have to figure out the best way to use it. This has been done though. Also cool is holds that look easy but are extremely tough to hold.
How about making some extremely sharp crimpers, like you find in nature...think razor blade.
I also like holds that are multiple sided for use on overhangs as well as slabs and low angle.
One idea that i don't think has been done yet (at least, i haven't seen it) is holds that emulate rough granite, like j-tree style. That would be cool...super grippy, plus it gets your fingers tough. I'd definitly like to see holds where you have to get your fingers perfectly on the crystals in order to stick.
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redpoint73
Aug 19, 2003, 2:59 AM
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Registered: Aug 20, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: janiszewski11 wrote: And I also have a question which is, Do you guys have a slick surface material to force a certain part of the hold to be used? Now that is a fiendishly devil of an idea.
It sure is. Its called "Voodoo Dual Texture".
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janiszewski11
Aug 19, 2003, 3:26 AM
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Registered: Feb 21, 2003
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For those of you who keep saying the slick hold thing was Voodoo's idea: It was. I thought Lance at morganic cleared this up but now I'll also say I wasn't claiming that I thought of the slick surface, I was simply asking whether morganic was also capable of using a slick surface b/c I didn't see one on any of their current holds ( of course I could just be blind).
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bertman
Aug 25, 2003, 3:51 AM
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Registered: Jul 17, 2003
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Hey, I've been experimenting with my own method to make holds, and it's going pretty well, and I think i'm going to start selling them once I finish making enough for my wall. All I need is more designs tho ;)
If anyone wants to send me their ideas (preferably in carved foam, dried clay, or even drawings) I will make them those holds for free. Just PM me.
My holds are great quality too... i can throw them as hard as i can on my driveway and they rarely chip. The texture is also nice, and i have an idea on how to do the granite thing that someone mentioned. If anyone wants to buy some cheap holds from me, custom designed, PM me... i can give you a good price
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