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route setting advice
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tslater


Feb 26, 2010, 4:40 AM
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route setting advice
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I am going to route set the routes for our new gym (middle schoolers).
If you've ever done it, are there some basic "dos" and "don'ts"?

It's a vertical wall (kinda boring I know- we're not a rich district), and the kids will prolly be wearing tennis shoes. We have a variety of holds (approx. 500). The wall is 12'x24' with auto belays.

We have to have foot holds large enough for tennis shoes, but I want them smaller than many of the holds they'll be pulling on (plus some of the hand holds will be slopers, too small for feet, etc.). SO... I'm gonna order about 160 footholds (1.5" - 2" deep) that are sorta made for that (tennis shoes, PE class) and have them all done in one color so I can tell the kids that everything but the purple (because so few holds are purple) small holds are off limits for feet. OR am I blowing it?Smile

Any other suggestions would be hot. Thanks!


rockforlife


Feb 26, 2010, 4:55 AM
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Registered: May 14, 2002
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Re: [tslater] route setting advice [In reply to]
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tslater wrote:
I am going to route set the routes for our new gym (middle schoolers).
If you've ever done it, are there some basic "dos" and "don'ts"?

It's a vertical wall (kinda boring I know- we're not a rich district), and the kids will prolly be wearing tennis shoes. We have a variety of holds (approx. 500). The wall is 12'x24' with auto belays.

We have to have foot holds large enough for tennis shoes, but I want them smaller than many of the holds they'll be pulling on (plus some of the hand holds will be slopers, too small for feet, etc.). SO... I'm gonna order about 160 footholds (1.5" - 2" deep) that are sorta made for that (tennis shoes, PE class) and have them all done in one color so I can tell the kids that everything but the purple (because so few holds are purple) small holds are off limits for feet. OR am I blowing it?Smile

Any other suggestions would be hot. Thanks!

http://www.routesetter.com/


vegastradguy


Feb 26, 2010, 6:15 AM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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Re: [tslater] route setting advice [In reply to]
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be mindful of the reach- chances are good you can reach further than them, so dont set holds too far apart.

routesetter.com is an excellent resource.


acorneau


Feb 26, 2010, 5:30 PM
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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
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tslater wrote:
I am going to route set the routes for our new gym (middle schoolers).
If you've ever done it, are there some basic "dos" and "don'ts"?

Most middle school-aged kids won't really get the "route" concept very well, they're just going to grab whatever is close by. If you've got the space just set one route per section of wall instead overlapping multiple routes.

Reach will be a big issue, keep things to their size.

In reply to:
We have to have foot holds large enough for tennis shoes, but I want them smaller than many of the holds they'll be pulling on ...

... and have them all done in one color so I can tell the kids that everything but the purple (because so few holds are purple) small holds are off limits for feet.

Again, I don't think individual routes will really work well except for kids that are regular climbers.

As others have said, RouteSetter.com is a great resource.

 

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