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sungam
Nov 18, 2009, 9:51 PM
Post #26 of 30
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
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colatownkid wrote: Joshua007 wrote: Haha, no need for slapping the holds are on the way to my house asap it sounds like. Where is this "no holds but jugs" idea coming from? We have tons of holds but can't use chalk so it does limit some things. We have sets of the smaller Nicros and Metolius and the rest are what look to be stolen from McDonald's playground (Entreprises brand though). Here's the link to our school wall on the EP site: http://www.epusa.com/installation.php?id=482 check it. There's a threshold between being a really good crimp and being bad enough you have to focus on feet, not having chalk seems to now allow the later. Once holds get into that "i'm not sure that'll go" angle, you can damn well forget it without chalk. That's my delima is there's no medium/training level. It's either really easy or past the point of eco-ball use. I'm thinking the liquid chalk may help but I honestly want to realize that I'm not much of a setter, I need help and to make what we have work! I'm sure it's possible to set good routes/problems but it's a big learning curve for me I guess. i'm with bill413 on the chalk issue. the real problem is probably that the holds are very greasy. chalk may help this to some degree, but the better solution is probably to clean the holds. when was the last time your holds were cleaned?
When the holds are sweatly and greasy and it feels all close and hot and humid I can definitely stick stuff better with chalk.
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colatownkid
Nov 18, 2009, 10:02 PM
Post #27 of 30
(739 views)
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Registered: Nov 27, 2007
Posts: 512
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sungam wrote: colatownkid wrote: Joshua007 wrote: Haha, no need for slapping the holds are on the way to my house asap it sounds like. Where is this "no holds but jugs" idea coming from? We have tons of holds but can't use chalk so it does limit some things. We have sets of the smaller Nicros and Metolius and the rest are what look to be stolen from McDonald's playground (Entreprises brand though). Here's the link to our school wall on the EP site: http://www.epusa.com/installation.php?id=482 check it. There's a threshold between being a really good crimp and being bad enough you have to focus on feet, not having chalk seems to now allow the later. Once holds get into that "i'm not sure that'll go" angle, you can damn well forget it without chalk. That's my delima is there's no medium/training level. It's either really easy or past the point of eco-ball use. I'm thinking the liquid chalk may help but I honestly want to realize that I'm not much of a setter, I need help and to make what we have work! I'm sure it's possible to set good routes/problems but it's a big learning curve for me I guess. i'm with bill413 on the chalk issue. the real problem is probably that the holds are very greasy. chalk may help this to some degree, but the better solution is probably to clean the holds. when was the last time your holds were cleaned? heh, I asked the same question in the other thread. When the holds are sweatly and greasy and it feels all close and hot and humid I can definitely stick stuff better with chalk.
the holds aren't all sweaty and greasy if they're cleaned semi-regularly. but i'll allow that there may be some merit to chalk if it keeps the grease from accumulating as fast.
as far as hot and humid goes, i'm willing to bet that facility has pretty good climate control, based on the picture.
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sungam
Nov 18, 2009, 10:27 PM
Post #28 of 30
(730 views)
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
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colatownkid wrote: sungam wrote: colatownkid wrote: Joshua007 wrote: Haha, no need for slapping the holds are on the way to my house asap it sounds like. Where is this "no holds but jugs" idea coming from? We have tons of holds but can't use chalk so it does limit some things. We have sets of the smaller Nicros and Metolius and the rest are what look to be stolen from McDonald's playground (Entreprises brand though). Here's the link to our school wall on the EP site: http://www.epusa.com/installation.php?id=482 check it. There's a threshold between being a really good crimp and being bad enough you have to focus on feet, not having chalk seems to now allow the later. Once holds get into that "i'm not sure that'll go" angle, you can damn well forget it without chalk. That's my delima is there's no medium/training level. It's either really easy or past the point of eco-ball use. I'm thinking the liquid chalk may help but I honestly want to realize that I'm not much of a setter, I need help and to make what we have work! I'm sure it's possible to set good routes/problems but it's a big learning curve for me I guess. i'm with bill413 on the chalk issue. the real problem is probably that the holds are very greasy. chalk may help this to some degree, but the better solution is probably to clean the holds. when was the last time your holds were cleaned? heh, I asked the same question in the other thread. When the holds are sweatly and greasy and it feels all close and hot and humid I can definitely stick stuff better with chalk. the holds aren't all sweaty and greasy if they're cleaned semi-regularly. but i'll allow that there may be some merit to chalk if it keeps the grease from accumulating as fast. as far as hot and humid goes, i'm willing to bet that facility has pretty good climate control, based on the picture.
I'm sure they can bust out a tempurature-limited dish washer or a pressure washer or something to clean the holds, sure seems high enough budget.
Now I'm officially bullshitting around. This topic is dead to me after this post.
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crazy_fingers84
Nov 18, 2009, 10:32 PM
Post #29 of 30
(724 views)
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Registered: Oct 11, 2006
Posts: 418
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I present exhibit A, note the chalk bags on the climbers.
I thought these weren't allowed at your wall? It seems odd because there doesn't seem to be any chalk on the holds or the wall... just curious.
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Joshua007
Nov 19, 2009, 1:15 AM
Post #30 of 30
(710 views)
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Registered: Oct 27, 2009
Posts: 14
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The holds are pressure washed every semester (2-3 months), but the eco-ball makes for some kind of fucking slimy mess. it's always humid and hot as hell in there (windows on two walls that pour sunshine in and no fans) plus people eat pizza and then come climb and stuff.
We pretty much hog the boulder wall b/c people think "on that's a short wall I want to climb higher'. Today we actually setup two problems that impressed me and weren't sent by anyone today. I feel that part of me sets problems and routes easier than I aim to b/c I will set and then work the problem for 3 hours until I get it. I want problems that take a week or two; maybe set and not climb it until the next day or something.
Good observation crazy_fingers, that was the when they were setting up the wall. We still have chalk bags, but they keep the eco-balls in them, not chalk.
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