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Carnage
May 19, 2009, 7:04 PM
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so as the only setter at my gym, i feel like my routes are getting kind of similar. i tend to set stuff thats kind of sequency and technical. i'd like to set some stuff thats like muscley and more brute force ish to get some more variety.
i like the idea of using big slopers and such, but our walls are mostly overhanging and anytime i try to put a sloper on it they just feel too hard.
anyone got any tips?
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chanceboarder
May 19, 2009, 7:25 PM
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Carnage wrote: anyone got any tips?
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bill413
May 19, 2009, 7:33 PM
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Get to some other gyms & see how they set routes.
On the overhangs, try using sloper / not such good hold to get up to good holds - so one bad move between good holds.
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djlachelt
May 20, 2009, 3:16 PM
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You might get more valuable responses to your question over at routesetter.com
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colatownkid
May 20, 2009, 3:47 PM
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chanceboarder wrote: Carnage wrote: anyone got any tips? Yeah hire some new setters.
variety is the spice of life...
get on other people's problems. better yet, get on a variety of problems outside. see how they go and what you like/dislike about them. try to figure out what makes a classic problem a classic. use that as inspiration.
what's this about "too hard" though? is there a limit on the max grade at your gym? sure, the gym probably needs more V1s than it does V9s, but i feel it is okay to set some hard problems.
as for "brute force" moves, i like to set a decent sloper to an undercling/gaston followed by a cross-over to a positive sidepull for an opening "muscley" sequence on an overhang.
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Carnage
May 21, 2009, 2:36 AM
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my gyms part of a health club. if i put anything up thats in the 12's no one gets on it.
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asellers98
Jun 17, 2009, 10:42 AM
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An easy solution is to make a list of items to pull out of hats, then develop your route from these random points. I made an excel spreadsheet that will do it for you if you want it, email me, so I know where to send it.
Choose up to four from each category:
Hold Type (jibs, sandstone, pockets, limestone, hueco, jugs, sloper, crimper, pinches, mega features, mantle move)
Climbing Technique (Heel Hook, Toe Hook, Side pull, Mantle, Stemming, Laybacking, Smearing, Gaston, Dyno, Ladder, No Hands Standup)
Choose one from each category:
Direction (draw different possible designs, in my excel spreadsheet I used letters, numbers, and symbols to represent different Designs)
ratings (5.6,5.7,5.8,5.9,5.10-,5.10+, 5.11-,5.11+)
number of holds (5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19,20)
number of matching moves (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8)
number of crux moves (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10)
feet (Easy, Moderate, Difficult, Very Difficult)
hands (Easy, Moderate, Difficult, Very Difficult)
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sp00ki
Sep 28, 2009, 10:09 PM
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This doesn't necessarily answer your question per se, but i've found that the routes i ENJOY the most are the ones that have the most in common with the "local" climbing spots.
For whatever reason, though, most routes/problems-- even the fun ones-- are typically not anything like what the local rock is like.
By V3 or so, i feel that jugs and pockets (unless you live near Hueco) should start dwindling, and things like crimps or granite slopers, small edges, etc. should have a substantial presence.
This does two things:
1) it really gets climbers ready for what they find outside. going outside shouldn't be a shock to the person who learns to climb in the gym, it should be something of a rough translation. if you're used to big throws to Fontainebleau pebble slopers or dynamic catches to deep pockets but live near areas known for tiny ledges and two finger crimps, you're going to get a little frustrated when you first start climbing outside-- unnecessarily.
2) it reminds people of being outside, which is probably going to be awesome for everyone, especially during the extreme seasons when going outside isn't an option. i know the people at my gym get totally stoked when they find a problem that reminds them of that V__ over at _______, or the route that has the same exact crux as that weird 5.__ at ________. Yet you only ever see stuff set this way once every three months.
Granted, this doesn't necessarily have anything to do with strength, but you'd definitely be doing your customers a service by giving them lots of exposure to the stuff they see outside (and letting them feel like they're there even when they're not).
Could be a good change of pace if that's really what you're looking for.
*note: i'm completely ignoring that many people live in areas where everything is a jug or pocket... there is no world outside of my own little pond.
(This post was edited by sp00ki on Sep 28, 2009, 10:14 PM)
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