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kilgymrats
Apr 20, 2010, 12:37 AM
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Hello everyone. I'm headed to Red Rocks this Sat for a 10 day climbing trip. Was hopeng to throw up a highline or two somewhere during the trip. Was wondering if anyone had any info on locations. I've read about Stonewall Gap and Gravity Gap, didn't know if there were any other established areas set up since those were first set. Any info would be greatly appreciated, and if you want to come out and hang/slack hit me up! Peace! ~Josh
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kilgymrats
May 5, 2010, 1:40 AM
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Just FYI for anyone headed to RR to highline. I was able to find the tripple bolt setup for the "Stonewall Gap" but somone has chopped the bolts on one side and the line is no longer able to be set up. Lame.. I wasn't able to find the longer "Gravity Gap" setup, but I assume they were located pretty close together and there were no highline anchors to be found. Just figured I'd pass along the word if anyone was interested. Take care. ~Josh
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joeforte
May 5, 2010, 1:47 AM
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I bet there is a lot of gym rats to kill in Florida. Where do you climb other than the gym?
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vegastradguy
May 5, 2010, 4:48 PM
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kilgymrats wrote: Just FYI for anyone headed to RR to highline. I was able to find the tripple bolt setup for the "Stonewall Gap" but somone has chopped the bolts on one side and the line is no longer able to be set up. Lame.. I wasn't able to find the longer "Gravity Gap" setup, but I assume they were located pretty close together and there were no highline anchors to be found. Just figured I'd pass along the word if anyone was interested. Take care. ~Josh my understanding is that the anchors that were installed for the highlines were removed not long after the first or second rendezvous (when they were installed)- not sure who chopped them, but it may well have been the folks who put them in.
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USnavy
May 6, 2010, 11:50 AM
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vegastradguy
May 6, 2010, 4:13 PM
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USnavy wrote: kilgymrats wrote: Just FYI for anyone headed to RR to highline. I was able to find the tripple bolt setup for the "Stonewall Gap" but somone has chopped the bolts on one side and the line is no longer able to be set up. Lame.. I wasn't able to find the longer "Gravity Gap" setup, but I assume they were located pretty close together and there were no highline anchors to be found. Just figured I'd pass along the word if anyone was interested. Take care. ~Josh So, place your own. You can get a permit to bolt in Red Rocks. Get one and place nice 1/2" glue in's and highline away. If you don't want to place glue ins get some 1/2" x 4.75" Power-Bolts with some Fixe 4 mm hangers. Those things are fucking truck. Or if your really paranoid you can get a 5/8" Power-Bolt and a 1/2" hanger and mount the hanger on the machine bolt. But the 5/8" bolts dont come in SS if I remember right. dude, shut the fuck up. please. stop talking. you dont live here, you dont know the situation, and you sure as fuck dont know anything about the rules. you can NOT get a permit to bolt in red rock, and it is currently under a bolting ban in the wilderness. this is something the local climbers council has been working to change for years now and people thinking they can bolt in red rock doesnt help matters any. Now, the Calico Hills are not wilderness and you can bolt there without a permit, but I would strongly encourage any non-locals to please contact the local climbers council before placing bolts. while not legally required, the BLM and the LVCLC have been working together closely and every little bit helps.
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kilgymrats
May 7, 2010, 3:13 PM
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Okay..okay..ladies..keep your panties on. No need to start cussing at each other. Ahh..good old RC.com.. reminds me when I used to think this website was cool back in '03. Ha. Anyway, USNavy..Vegastradguy (as loudly as he may have said it) is pretty much right on. I COULD have placed my own bolts, but i'm not a local, don't know the local "ethics", and in all truth don't have any business placing bolts in rock type that i'm unfamiliar with bolting in. I was just going to set up for the day and IMO that is not a good reason to place perm anchors. Vegas...relax dude..at least he said to get a permit so at it seems his head is in the right place for starters. :) Thanks for the heads up about what may have happened to the anchors up there. The info I got on the highline site was really dated and so it doesn't surprise me that the setup was gone. I was bummed, but the trip was still a lot of fun. And..Joeforte... Yeah man..there are a lot of gym rats down there! I've been on a murdering spree! Ha. Sadly the only real good thing worth wile to climb down here in FL are sailboat masts (which you can make money doing!), bar stools (which you can loose money doing), and some skanky loose chicks leg (which..well..you can loose way more than money doing! ) Haha.. Ohh the shitty places we have to live and things we put ourselves through to make money...
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vegastradguy
May 8, 2010, 1:24 AM
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im totally relaxed- but when some dumbass starts spouting about things he doesnt know that can radically affect access issues because some other dumbass reads what he wrote on the internet...i have to speak up- especially when the area in question is my home crag and its in the middle of a pretty significant bolting policy planning process.
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kilgymrats
May 8, 2010, 3:21 AM
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Vegas..totally understandable man. I'm a native NC climber and bolting in NC is a MAJOR no no. Access is always a huge issue and i'm sure RR is the same. Your concerns are for sure justified. :) Take care brother!!
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USnavy
Aug 14, 2010, 10:44 AM
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I was in Red Rocks a month back and noticed a set of three 1/2" bolts on the approach to the Sweet Pain Wall which appeared to be for highlineing. They were about 100 feet away from the wall. If you follow the main path from the parking lot it should be easy to find them. They may not be there for highlineing but I didn’t see any other conservable use for them.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Aug 14, 2010, 10:45 AM)
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