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wearyourtruth
Jun 10, 2005, 4:27 PM
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so i can't keep my slackline up all the time because i'm in an apt, plus i like to be able to take it around to parks and stuff (don't we all) but since i'm constantly putting it up and taking it down, i find that unless i have 3 or more people (including myself) i can't get my system tight enough to use. i have 1" webbing and i use a system almost identical to the "ellington system" on coldclimb's article. by myself i just can't seem to crank it down enough, but i don't always want to wait for 2 other people to go play on the line. any suggestions?
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veganboyjosh
Jun 10, 2005, 4:39 PM
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piggyback your systems. i use two 3-1 systems piggybacked when the line is shorter, and three systems piggybacked when it's longer, andi can tighten the hell out of it by myself. it does take some adjusting of carabiners/clove hitches while tightening, cos as it tightens, the carabiners in system 2 or 3 will max out, requiring me to lock off (with a biner or with a short sling) on of the higher up systems, so as to take up the slack in the lower system that's maxed out.
i hope that makes sense. i've used this setup to tighten mine, and once got it so tight that the front biner(the one with all the tension on it) wouldn't open.
keep in mind that the more systems you piggyback, the more webbign you'll need. when i have all 3 systems piggybacked, if i pull on the end of the line, i have to pull it almost 27 inches to get the original line to move 1. (if my math is correct).
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bigjonnyc
Jun 10, 2005, 5:36 PM
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Try this simple three step system:
1. Tie the webbing off to the bumper of your car.
2. Drive.
3. Enjoy a nice tight line.
Or, more realistically, try the third system in coldclimb's article. I can get it tight enough on my own, and really tight with just one other person.
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pinkydancer
Jun 11, 2005, 12:34 AM
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I use a 3 to 1 system. I use 6 biners total for my entire slackline setup.
I'm able to tighten the line JUST fine, and I'm a scrawny 120lb little girl. :P
Try a 3 to 1 system, that should do it.
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crshbrn84
Jun 11, 2005, 12:49 AM
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im not sure what the system is called but its where the line is sinched over itself in a large pulley, i think im using a 6-1 or 7-1 pulley with my slack line, to get it tight when im by myself, i clove hitch a spare biner onto the line that im pulling on, and make a webbing loop out going through the biner, i put that loop around my waist and i bounce back and the system tightens ever so slightly, and keep bouncing till the line is as tight as you would like. i find this works.
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coldclimb
Jun 11, 2005, 8:02 PM
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The stuff above works, of course, but another way that works awesomely is to shell out the bucks for a good system specifically built to help you set up lines quick and easy. :wink: I haven't looked back since buying a slackjack. :D
Of course if you like your money, piggy-backing several systems is probably the easiest. :wink:
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teletori
Jun 23, 2005, 8:31 PM
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Now I can walk from one side to the middle when the line meet the ground... :D
I have a hard time tighten the line by myself , and would like some better explanation and maybe pictures/drawings about how to piggyback the system?
And what is the 3 to 1 etc?
I have a 30 foot line, how much does your line sag?
Sorry for my JONGish questions, but english is not my first language, and I have some problems understand... :oops:
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veganboyjosh
Jun 23, 2005, 8:59 PM
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(i know that all m.a. numbers are not including friction...)
for a good pic on how to set up a 3:1,
check out the second pic here:
http://www.wanderingphotographer.com/other_int/slack_pages/slackline_systems/three-to-one.htm
on my setup, instead of using rope, the webbing (purple in the pic in that link) continues toward the anchor, turns back to the biner--clove hitched to the webbing--goes thru the biner, back to the tree/anchor. you pull on this end of the webbing to tighten it with a 3:1 advantage. keep in mind that with the mechanical edvantage comes the distance disadvantage. (i'm sure there's a better physics type word for this concept, but i dunno it.) for every 1 inch your walkable line moves, you have to pull the 3:1'ed end 3 inches.
now, to piggyback this with another 3:1, you would take this end of the webbing that you're pulling on, and build the same setup. clove hitch a biner as close to the first biner tied into the line as you can, and run the line thru the anchor, back to the 2nd biner, and then pull towards the anchor.
basically you're making it easier to pull on the end of hte 3:1, which transfers this force to the original line. keep in mind, that for every 1 inch your original line moves, your new end has to move 9 inches. this second sliding biner will need a lot of room to move, and it's been my experience that it maxes out (reaches the anchor) far sooner than the line becomes as tight as i want it.
in this case, i tie off the line, to the anchor. then i loosen the line, and retie the 2nd sliding biner closer to the first, and crank away again. sometimes i have to repeat this step.
when i do this and the line's aroun 30 feet, it gets tight enough that when standing in the middle of the line, it's about 6 inches to 1 foot off the ground.
when the line is around 50-60 feet, i have to piggyback another system on there, and it takes so long to rig up and copntinue moving biners up the line so as to make it a miserable experience, and oncei 've done riging it, i'm ready to go inside. remember, at this poiint, the m.a. is at 27 to 1, so for every inch i move the main line, the pull end has to move 2 feet. i tend to max out the biners (1, 2, and 3) somewhere in here... making moving the biners necessary more than once.
i think as i do it more and more often, i'll learn the lengths the anchor pieces need to be, so as to make it easier to rig the 3 3:1 systems on top of each other.
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slacklinejoe
Jun 23, 2005, 9:59 PM
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In reply to: I use a 3 to 1 system. I use 6 biners total for my entire slackline setup. I'm able to tighten the line JUST fine, and I'm a scrawny 120lb little girl. :P Try a 3 to 1 system, that should do it.
Part of your success is directly linked to weighing only 120 lbs.. get someone like me (190lbs) on it and a 3:1 takes a lot of muscle to set.
If your sticking to biners to tighten it, look into multiplying the advantage on the line. If your not hooked on any given setup there are some excellent commercial setups that work very well.
We make ratchet setups that create 13:1 setups, pulley setups for 8:1, 4:1 and such as well as the 3:1 gear. It's nice to be able to set up a 100 ft + line solo with no fuss and without a lot of rigging as well.
Other options for more power are the slackjack line cold climb mentioned or more efficent pulley systems like the Slackline Brothers rig or a CMI Uplift pulley setup.
Basically, there is a plethora of options that'll set your line tight enough solo, the hard part is picking something that meets your needs for portability. budget, and ease of use.
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flipnfall
Jun 23, 2005, 10:16 PM
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I like flyswatters. Dont' know why because you can't train with them.
GT
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price1869
Jul 28, 2005, 9:56 PM
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Here's what I do. (I'm almost always between two trees)
1. Stand behind the tree on the side where your tensioning system is facing the tree.
2. Take the webbing that needs to be pulled on the right side of the tree, and then counter clockwise wrap it around your body one time.
3. Hold the end like you would your belay, or a rappel. (behind your right hip.
4. Put your feet on the back of the tree and push hard.
5. retighten around your waist. Repeat.
It always works for me. I figured this one out after completely messing up my hands wrapping them up in the line and pulling.
Good Luck.
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slacklinejoe
Jul 28, 2005, 10:26 PM
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In reply to: It always works for me. I figured this one out after completely messing up my hands wrapping them up in the line and pulling. Good Luck.
Well, you could make a real pulling handle - we use our standard zip slings with just a larger loop. Makes a great pull handle as it works like an ascender.
http://www.slacklineexpress.com/images/slidelock.jpg
If you have a spare biner, you could just clove hitch it and use it as a pull handle. Don't like the grip a biner gives, clip a 6" sling to it and pull there. Want 2 people to be able to pull on it, clip 1 short sling and 1 long sling into the biner.
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landgolier
Jul 28, 2005, 10:53 PM
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OP has probably fallen asleep by now, but I can tighten a 40' line alone no problem with the ellington system, the key is to use oval biners. Some say 11/16 or 9/16 webbing, too, but I've never seen a need.
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theirishspy
Aug 16, 2005, 6:15 PM
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Right, about the whole car tightening system, here's a true story to ponder:
Last summer my friends and I were setting up a 60 ft line in the mountains, and decided to use a vehicle to tighten it. When you put this much pressure on the knots in the webbing, they do something that we call cut in on themselves. One of the knots we had got so tight that it pinched off the webbing, essentially cutting it. The tension was so great that the webbing snapped back towards the car and broke one of the headlights.
So just remember, be careful when you tighten your line, some methods are pretty dangerous.
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vahurst
Aug 27, 2005, 5:45 PM
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I used my truck once to tighten a 100 ft. line. It made me nervous with all the tension on the line, but it was the only thing I had to put that much tension on the line. However, when I set it up, i strung the line between two trees, and put a pulley one one tree and a knot on the other. I hooked the line to my truck at a right angle to the line so that if the line snapped, it would fly away from my truck. I worked very well, and other than stretching the line some (it was new line) nothing was hurt. Also, if you tighten it with a vehicle..do it SLOWLY!!!....the line gets really tight really quick. Oh...and have fun beating knots out of the line afterwards :D
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uncleslackline
Aug 31, 2005, 4:43 AM
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Spring for a set of SBI pulleys, a camming device, and another pulley.
problem solved!!!
Little girls can tighten any line any time by themselfs!
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niles
Aug 31, 2005, 5:42 AM
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In reply to: Spring for a set of SBI pulleys, a camming device, and another pulley. problem solved!!! Little girls can tighten any line any time by themselfs!
No doubt you guys are doing cool things, but the pulleys are way to spendy for me. Until the cost goes down I'll have to stick to the pulling power of me and as many other people as I can find.
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veganboyjosh
Aug 31, 2005, 5:46 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Spring for a set of SBI pulleys, a camming device, and another pulley. problem solved!!! Little girls can tighten any line any time by themselfs! No doubt you guys are doing cool things, but the pulleys are way to spendy for me. Until the cost goes down I'll have to stick to the pulling power of me and as many other people as I can find.
with mechanical advantage setups, you shouldn't need any more than yourself pulling to get the thing as tight as you want it...
how are you tightening it now?
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uncleslackline
Aug 31, 2005, 1:40 PM
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Do you spend money on climbing gear? Do you own a snow board, surf board, or skate board?
Every sport cost some money to get started!
I do not understand why there is so much resistance to buying the kind gear for slacklining.
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niles
Aug 31, 2005, 4:47 PM
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In reply to: Do you spend money on climbing gear? Do you own a snow board, surf board, or skate board? Every sport cost some money to get started! I do not understand why there is so much resistance to buying the kind gear for slacklining.
You indeed have a point, and I certainly didn't mean to aggrevate you or knock your product. But the expensive pulleys don't seem justifiable to me, and as such they become cost prohibitive. I'm just a poor college student. I own a rope and a $20 harness, my rock shoes are from ebay, and almost all my carabiners are from retired climbers. I don't own a snow board, surf board, or skate board. Last year I bought a slackjack after I got an unexpected $100 refund at school. A big purchase for me. I would love to have a set of your pulleys - I think they're cool. But, right now, I don't have any money, but I do have friends that don't mind pulling on a line ever so often. I guess I assumed that there are a lot of people in a similar situation.
In reply to: with mechanical advantage setups, you shouldn't need any more than yourself pulling to get the thing as tight as you want it...
Yeah, for the most part you're right. I can set up a 65' line by myself with a couple MAs, but past that I'm stuck and just have to start placing anchors higher :wink:
Cheers,
Niles
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iltripp
Aug 31, 2005, 5:23 PM
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I can tighten my slackline easily by myself with a fairly small amount of equipment. It is also incredibly easy once you have it figured out. I can set this up in less than 5 minutes. I don't have a digitial camera, so I'll try to explain as best I can.
For this, you need:
1 slackline with enough webbing (i prefer to have plenty).
4 carabiners
1 extra piece of webbing for an anchor (two if you don't want to girth hitch the non-tensioning end)
So, the tensioning system starts with a basic 3:1, except you only use 2 biners for it.
1) Girth hitch a tree with one end of the line (or clip into a sling if you prefer)
2) Tie a clove hitch in your line (give yourself plenty of distance from the anchor) and clip one biner into it
3) sling your anchor with the extra piece of webbing and clip a biner into it.
4) set-up a 3:1 system with these 2 biners where the line starts at the clove hitch, through the anchor biner, back through the clove hitch biner, through the anchor again, and back through the clove hitch biner. Do this so that each wrap goes inside of the previous wrap. The benefit of this is that the friction on the line will keep it from coming loose, but won't interfere greatly with tightening it (like I said, I can easily get it tight alone).This is just like a normal 3:1 set-up on many lines, except that 2 biners are used instead of 4.
5) Pull that as tight as you can by yourself (notice that when you let go, the line doesn't loosen).
6) This is the part that really makes a difference. Take the piece of line you were just pulling and tie a hitch in it, and clip it. This hitch should be as close to the original clove hitch as possible.
7)Clip your 4th biner into the anchor sling. Run the loose end of the slackline through this biner and back to the biner in the hitch. Pull
8) Depending on the distance you gave yourself for the tightening system, you may need to loosen the hitch and slide it back up the line... then pull it tight again. The mechanical advantage of adding the second part of the system makes it really easy tighten.
I know this is badly explained, but I can try to clarify if anyone has any questions. This is, by far, the best home-made system I have used.
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veganboyjosh
Aug 31, 2005, 5:29 PM
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i use the same method as iltripp, with one minor adjustment...
In reply to: 6) This is the part that really makes a difference. Take the piece of line you were just pulling and tie a hitch in it, and clip it. This hitch should be as close to the original clove hitch as possible.
instead of clove hitching this 3rd biner to the slackline, use a kleimheist to attach it. as you pull on it, and max it out back at the anchor, pinch the other part of the line (where the first 3:1 goes thru the anchor) with one hand, and loosen and slide the kleimhest back to the 1st biner. now you have some more room to pull on the 9:1 end...
the rest is the same as well.
In reply to: 8) Depending on the distance you gave yourself for the tightening system, you may need to loosen the hitch and slide it back up the line... then pull it tight again. The mechanical advantage of adding the second part of the system makes it really easy tighten.
which is easier to loosen, a tensioned clove hitch, or a tensioned kleimheist?
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slacklinejoe
Aug 31, 2005, 5:52 PM
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In reply to: i use the same method as iltripp, with one minor adjustment... which is easier to loosen, a tensioned clove hitch, or a tensioned kleimheist?
Probably the kleimheist, but man it usually screws with my web by pinching and doesn't hold nearly as well as I'd like unless I put mondo wraps which takes length out of the system throw.
Those $3 cam buckles (posted in my prior post in this thread) work great for what your trying to do with either a clove or kleimheist, release easy and slide along the web as easily as an ascender in rope and won't kink your web. Works nifty for "ratcheting" a pulley system with multipliers.
Of course, there are other nifty ways of setting long lines solo that don't involve pulleys, like the stuff I make ( I have no problem setting a 100 ft + solo on our stock kit), but if your wanting to stick with pull for tension piggy backed systems should produce much more efficent pulling since it gets less friction according to the SAR studies I've read.
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iltripp
Aug 31, 2005, 6:04 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: 8) Depending on the distance you gave yourself for the tightening system, you may need to loosen the hitch and slide it back up the line... then pull it tight again. The mechanical advantage of adding the second part of the system makes it really easy tighten. which is easier to loosen, a tensioned clove hitch, or a tensioned kleimheist?
I actually don't use a clove hitch on that part of the line, but I wasn't sure what the knot is called, but if you do it a certain way, it can be a breeze to untie.
Basically, you make a loop, pass another loop through, and clip the second loop. If you were to not clip the second loop, you would basically have a slip knot. Now, if you just cinch that down and tighten, it will be fairly difficult, but impossible to loosen. However, if you let the knot tighten down around the very top of the biner (I don't really know how to describe this, but the knot is basically around the pointier part at the top of the spine), then it can be untied with almost no effort at all.
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niles
Aug 31, 2005, 8:26 PM
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Slacklinejoe's cambuckles are definitely a good way to go, but if you've got an extra biner the best knot I've found for these compound MAs is the Garda Hitch or Alpine Clutch (check this thread (it's the last set of pictures in the first post): http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/85322)
All you have to do to move the biners up the line is pull on the tail. No loosening, no retying...
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