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coolcat83
Dec 9, 2009, 10:35 PM
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climberslacker wrote: Hey guys, My friend was telling me about this route he was thinking of doing that was a 3 pitch sport route. I was wondering, on a sport route, assuming you do have belay anchors, how do you rappel off with leaving the minimum amount of gear? I usually climb trad so I don't know if its acceptable to tie slings to a bolt or not, but I was just curious! -CS P.S. i don't plan on doing it, just wondering! |
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soyshadymilkman
Dec 9, 2009, 10:40 PM
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I don't quite get your question, maybe I should have re-read your original post, but if you are rappelling on a multipitch sport climb you don't have to leave any gear if it's got rap rings (which most multipitch sport routes will have at each belay station). You just rap from one station to the next, clip into an anchor of your making or directly into the bolts at the next station, pull the rope, thread it through the rings you're at, rinse and repeat. Hope this helps
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justroberto
Dec 9, 2009, 10:42 PM
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Based on previous posts, I'd say he's serious. Good call.
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climberslacker
Dec 9, 2009, 11:08 PM
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Ok, so Theres no worry with just threading the rope through the bolts? Thats all I was really curious about.
Thanks!
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soyshadymilkman
Dec 9, 2009, 11:53 PM
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Yeah sorry about not being extremely clear earlier. You CAN'T just thread regular sized hangers. But hangers at belay stations should have rap rings, thicker circular fused shut rings attached to the hangers. You can run your rope through those no problem, or the THICKER rap specific hangers, but not just through regular hangers, those would likely cut right through your rope
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airforceclmr
Dec 10, 2009, 1:08 AM
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This smells like a troll.
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climberslacker
Dec 10, 2009, 3:41 AM
Post #10 of 26
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soyshadymilkman wrote: Yeah sorry about not being extremely clear earlier. You CAN'T just thread regular sized hangers. But hangers at belay stations should have rap rings, thicker circular fused shut rings attached to the hangers. You can run your rope through those no problem, or the THICKER rap specific hangers, but not just through regular hangers, those would likely cut right through your rope
Thats what I was curious about, and thats really why the question came up, becuase I had only seen the normal sized ones.
Thanks guys!
-CS
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marc801
Dec 10, 2009, 4:39 AM
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soyshadymilkman wrote: You can run your rope through those no problem, or the THICKER rap specific hangers, but not just through regular hangers, those would likely cut right through your rope
They won't cut the rope. However, they will provide so much friction that it's likely that you wouldn't be able to retrieve your rope.
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cantbuymefriends
Dec 10, 2009, 10:14 AM
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And don't forget that you need a ATC-type (double-slot) belay device for rapping on double ropes.
And if you're climbing on a single rope, you can only rap half the rope's length between anchors.
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justroberto
Dec 10, 2009, 3:42 PM
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cantbuymefriends wrote: And don't forget that you need a ATC-type (double-slot) belay device for rapping on double ropes.
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cantbuymefriends
Dec 10, 2009, 4:04 PM
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justroberto wrote: cantbuymefriends wrote: And don't forget that you need a ATC-type (double-slot) belay device for rapping on double ropes. Also not true, as has been discussed ad nauseum here before.
I just thought it would be something to consider for someone in the stage of development as the OP seems to be.
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justroberto
Dec 10, 2009, 5:06 PM
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cantbuymefriends wrote: justroberto wrote: cantbuymefriends wrote: And don't forget that you need a ATC-type (double-slot) belay device for rapping on double ropes. Also not true, as has been discussed ad nauseum here before. Uumm, no... I just thought it would be something to consider for someone in the stage of development as the OP seems to be.
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dagibbs
Dec 10, 2009, 7:21 PM
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justroberto wrote: climberslacker wrote: Ok, so Theres no worry with just threading the rope through the bolts? Thats all I was really curious about. Thanks! Slow down there, grasshopper. Take a look at the hangers on the next sport route you climb. Typically the bolts that you clip on your way up will look like this: [image]http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/images/SS_Bolt_Hanger.jpg[/image] Note the small profile...Not for rapelling. Hopefully, if there are just bolts at the anchor, they're beefy like this : [image]http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/images/rap_hanger.jpg[/image] Note the wider profile. Thems is for rapelling. Capisce?
And if there are only the narrow types, it can be handy to bring a few quick-links with you, and just put the quick links through the narrow ones, and your rope through the quick links.
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dugl33
Dec 10, 2009, 8:32 PM
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For most people the only real question is, can I rap this with one rope or do I need two?
Generally, sport routes without a walk-off are pre-equipped with rap rings, mussy hooks, welded cold-shuts (or the scarier open ones), or metolius rap hangers.
The metolius rap hangers are obviously different when you see them, being nearly a 1/4" thick. Do not feed your rope straight through normal hangers.
Take a few quicklinks (5/16"+ thick) just in case. In a pinch you can rap off just webbing, but it lacks the good karma of leaving the station better than it was. Only rap on webbing, never lower through it. Leave a ring on the webbing if you have one. Be careful rapping straight off old webbing that may be burned from multiple rope pulls or sun damaged. These crappy stations usually have multiple webbing loops. If not, add your own. Rock colored, brown, and black webbing are less obvious from the ground and more PC. Take a pocket knife in case you need to cut away old webbing.
Each "standard" style bolt hanger needs two links for a good feed, otherwise the rope may simply cleat down and will be a bitch to pull, or hang up all together.
Once again, most "sport" routes are pre-equipped. Just be prepared to deal with it if its not.
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cracklover
Dec 10, 2009, 9:55 PM
Post #18 of 26
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climberslacker wrote: Hey guys, My friend was telling me about this route he was thinking of doing that was a 3 pitch sport route. I was wondering, on a sport route, assuming you do have belay anchors, how do you rappel off with leaving the minimum amount of gear? I usually climb trad so I don't know if its acceptable to tie slings to a bolt or not, but I was just curious! -CS P.S. i don't plan on doing it, just wondering!
Hey CS - you say you've climbed sport before, right? How did you get the rope down from single pitch climbs?
Did you leave biners and slings at the top of every sport climb you've ever done?
GO
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marc801
Dec 10, 2009, 10:34 PM
Post #19 of 26
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cracklover wrote: Hey CS - you say you've climbed sport before, right? How did you get the rope down from single pitch climbs? Did you leave biners and slings at the top of every sport climb you've ever done? 
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dugl33
Dec 10, 2009, 10:48 PM
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cracklover wrote: climberslacker wrote: Hey guys, My friend was telling me about this route he was thinking of doing that was a 3 pitch sport route. I was wondering, on a sport route, assuming you do have belay anchors, how do you rappel off with leaving the minimum amount of gear? I usually climb trad so I don't know if its acceptable to tie slings to a bolt or not, but I was just curious! -CS P.S. i don't plan on doing it, just wondering! Hey CS - you say you've climbed sport before, right? How did you get the rope down from single pitch climbs? Did you leave biners and slings at the top of every sport climb you've ever done? GO
Actually, he doesn't say he climbs sport. He says he usually climbs trad, and in that context maybe the question isn't that crazy despite the noobish effervescence. Many trad routes, even when they have bolted anchors, don't have rap rings. The reason being is they end up at a down climb or walk off, and as such, rapping isn't necessary unless you are backing off rather than finishing. More often than not, if you back off a trad route you are leaving gear behind. You're lucky if there are a few bolted stations and you don't have to abandon half your rack getting down.
Right, crack lover
::wink::
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climberslacker
Dec 11, 2009, 12:42 AM
Post #21 of 26
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Ok, that pretty much answers my question! and dgl33, the only sport routes ive ever done had a walk off.
Thanks guys!
-CS
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cantbuymefriends
Dec 11, 2009, 10:47 AM
Post #22 of 26
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justroberto wrote: cantbuymefriends wrote: justroberto wrote: cantbuymefriends wrote: And don't forget that you need a ATC-type (double-slot) belay device for rapping on double ropes. Also not true, as has been discussed ad nauseum here before. Uumm, no... I just thought it would be something to consider for someone in the stage of development as the OP seems to be. Just because you don't know how to do it doesn't mean it's not possible. It's just another intersting tool in the box.
It IS an interesting tool in the box. But for someone who has to ask what a sport anchor looks like and how to rap off of it, it's just information overload at this stage. IMHO.
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justroberto
Dec 11, 2009, 2:27 PM
Post #23 of 26
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cantbuymefriends wrote: justroberto wrote: cantbuymefriends wrote: justroberto wrote: cantbuymefriends wrote: And don't forget that you need a ATC-type (double-slot) belay device for rapping on double ropes. Also not true, as has been discussed ad nauseum here before. Uumm, no... I just thought it would be something to consider for someone in the stage of development as the OP seems to be. Just because you don't know how to do it doesn't mean it's not possible. It's just another intersting tool in the box. You misunderstood my last post. I actually agreed with you. Sorry I wasn't all clear with that. It IS an interesting tool in the box. But for someone who has to ask what a sport anchor looks like and how to rap off of it, it's just information overload at this stage. IMHO.
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dingus
Dec 11, 2009, 3:01 PM
Post #24 of 26
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Ah yes another rc classic thread!
DMT
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cracklover
Dec 11, 2009, 6:00 PM
Post #25 of 26
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dingus wrote: Ah yes another rc classic thread! DMT
What do you think are the chances that the OP has really never rapped off fixed gear?
I'd guess zero, but what do I know.
This thread reads like an intro course on trolling.
GO
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