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delendaest
Nov 11, 2010, 8:02 PM
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Does anyone have any strong opinions on having 10cm vs 15cm quickdraws? I'm building my first rack and I'm not sure which to buy. I mostly climb trad, but I'd like to have a nice set of quickdraws for sport. Thanks
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spikeddem
Nov 11, 2010, 8:05 PM
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If you climb trad you should understand the difference. A longer sling should be used to minimize rope drag. If rope drag is not a worry then you should use shorter draws.
If a climb is bolted in a way such that the bottom biner is levered open by a rock feature or if it is going to "bend" the biner over a feature you should also use a longer draw.
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delendaest
Nov 11, 2010, 8:13 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I understand the logic behind different runner lengths. I was more wondering about the versatility of the different lengths. For example, in the past, I've had a set of 10cm quickdraws that I'd use when sport climbing, and set of double-backed long runners that I'd use with trad. But do people find that a 15cm quickdraw is versatile enough to be used both with trad and sport?
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spikeddem
Nov 11, 2010, 8:15 PM
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delendaest wrote: Thanks for the reply. I understand the logic behind different runner lengths. I was more wondering about the versatility of the different lengths. For example, in the past, I've had a set of 10cm quickdraws that I'd use when sport climbing, and set of double-backed long runners that I'd use with trad. But do people find that a 15cm quickdraw is versatile enough to be used both with trad and sport?
Depends on what trad lines you're climbing and what sport lines you're climbing. Think about the climbs in your area, ask yourself the question, and there's your answer.
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dugl33
Nov 11, 2010, 8:31 PM
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delendaest wrote: Thanks for the reply. I understand the logic behind different runner lengths. I was more wondering about the versatility of the different lengths. For example, in the past, I've had a set of 10cm quickdraws that I'd use when sport climbing, and set of double-backed long runners that I'd use with trad. But do people find that a 15cm quickdraw is versatile enough to be used both with trad and sport?
Yes. Personally I use a mix of the Petzl express draws, although I use the 17 cm and 25 cm, about 4 of each, and about 8 shoulder length dyneema (tripled up) "trad draws" with superfly wiregates. The "sport" draws are a bit heavy but I like the mix. Works for just about everything.
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cruxstacean
Nov 12, 2010, 12:31 AM
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delendaest wrote: Does anyone have any strong opinions on having 10cm vs 15cm quickdraws? I'm building my first rack and I'm not sure which to buy. I mostly climb trad, but I'd like to have a nice set of quickdraws for sport. Thanks
Variety is nice, I have 10, 11, 15, 17 and 25 cm quickdraws plus some trad draws.
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notapplicable
Nov 12, 2010, 12:47 AM
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If you are planning on using them for both sport and gear, I would go with the 15 cm.
And yes, draws of that length are useful on gear routes.
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Colinhoglund
Nov 12, 2010, 1:12 AM
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For sport, Ice and trad I have a mixture of draws. I have ten 10cm draws that pretty much only get used cragging. I also have 9 tripled draws on light wirregates that go on anything ice/trad or sport multipitch (im in the rockies even our sport routes wander).
I have two 22cm draws that are always on me, for roof or out of line bolts on sport, or for desperate clips elsewhere. I'll use them when i need to protect higher on trad too.
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TarHeelEMT
Nov 13, 2010, 3:04 AM
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If you're going to use them frequently for trad, go with the longest possible.
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billcoe_
Jan 11, 2011, 9:52 PM
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Get the over the shoulder full length runner sling and they double up and make great quickdraws. People call them "trad draws".
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guangzhou
Jan 12, 2011, 3:00 AM
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sp115 wrote: billcoe_ wrote: Get the over the shoulder full length runner sling and they double up and make great quickdraws. People call them "trad draws". I think it's more common to carry them tripled, as opposed to doubled, like this:
Trad-draws, really. I've never heard that before. I just call them runners.
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trad-draw.jpg
