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Mikaelm
Jun 23, 2009, 7:22 AM
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I've been climbing for three months, and my red point is 5.11c so far. On sight is around 5.10+. Is this a normal increase in grades? If not what is the average grade increase.
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brijoel
Jun 23, 2009, 10:05 AM
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No.
You're probably afflicted by nsprayetardwgymb syndrome.
It's highly common, highly contagious, and can take hours to years to cure.
---
On a slightly serious note...
...Your question would be much more reasonable if you told us whether you were leading, toproping... indoor, outdoor... do you climb/train constantly, sit on your ass all week...
---
On an even more serious note...
There's no realistic way anyone can tell you. There's way too many uncontrolled factors that are absurdly left open ended, and your post just sounds like you're spraying.
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king_rat
Jun 23, 2009, 11:48 AM
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Mikaelm wrote: Is this a normal increase in grades? If not what is the average grade increase.
is this normal? yes......no....probably.....maybe....oh fcuk it i don't know
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mounter
Jun 23, 2009, 12:25 PM
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Not normal...commit yourself to an institution immediately. You're in grave danger, dude.
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bill413
Jun 23, 2009, 12:52 PM
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Mikaelm wrote: I've been climbing for three months, and my red point is 5.11c so far. On sight is around 5.10+. Is this a normal increase in grades? If not what is the average grade increase.
How can we say what is your increase if we don't know your starting point (say a week after you started, a month after you started, and now)? If the first route you jumped on was 5.11b, your increase would be slight, but noticible. (Of course, jumping on 5.11 your first time up would be pretty incredible.) However, if you were only climbing 5.4 after a month, and then jumped to 5.11 in the next two months, that would be a pretty impressive increase.
And, to some extent, are we talking increase in strength, technique, head space, or shoes?
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bradley3297
Jun 23, 2009, 1:25 PM
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careful. a whole assortment of injuries to be had if you get too good too fast.
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jamincan
Jun 23, 2009, 2:29 PM
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Mikaelm wrote: I've been climbing for three months, and my red point is 5.11c so far. On sight is around 5.10+. Is this a normal increase in grades? If not what is the average grade increase.
Are you leading these grades or top roping?
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Mikaelm
Jun 23, 2009, 6:52 PM
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All on Lead. I don't really enjoy top roping. and no plastic.
For the question about progression. My first Month I was up to V2 and by my second I was doing V3's (no plastic). Then the third I started doing ropes, and jumped up to 5.10 in a day. Lead a 5.10+ a week or so later then had to boulder a 5.11c which I can probably finish next week.
Sorry about sounding like i'm spraying I am just honestly curious.
(This post was edited by Mikaelm on Jun 23, 2009, 6:57 PM)
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coastal_climber
Jun 23, 2009, 9:27 PM
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Everyone is different. There is no "normal". And the 5 point grade system doesn't apply to bouldering.
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marc801
Jun 23, 2009, 11:01 PM
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Ruptured pulley injury coming in ...3...2...1...
Also, definitely not normal. Actually, when some of us on this board started, not even possible - 5.11 didn't exist then. (The grade at least.)
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Mikaelm
Jun 24, 2009, 2:08 AM
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Halfway up the route my muscles gave out so I ended up going bolt to bolt the rest of the way up. I was thinking I kinda bouldered it.
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cleethree
Jun 24, 2009, 1:29 PM
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Red point: To complete a lead climb without falling or resting on the rope (hangdogging). Also see clean and pinkpoint.
Bouldering: The practice of climbing on large boulders. Typically this is close to the ground, so protection takes the form of crash pads and spotting instead of belay ropes.
(This post was edited by cleethree on Jun 24, 2009, 1:35 PM)
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CrazyPetie
Jul 4, 2009, 11:43 PM
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Mikaelm wrote: Halfway up the route my muscles gave out so I ended up going bolt to bolt the rest of the way up. I was thinking I kinda bouldered it.
I was up to hard tens, easy 11's in my first few months of climbing. Then i started to plateau in the 11's. I've been climbing for a year now and i climb 12's. I think some people are just gifted for climbing or they are screwed. I took one kid climbing for his first time and he just about kept up with me so who can ever know a normal progression.
It sounds to me tho you were just dogging around on that 11. Dont count chickens, it will just make you frustrated when you get shut down by a climb thats "supposed" to be easy for you.
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rtwilli4
Jul 6, 2009, 12:44 AM
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Mikaelm wrote: I've been climbing for three months, and my red point is 5.11c so far. On sight is around 5.10+. Is this a normal increase in grades? If not what is the average grade increase.
Where are you climbing? If you have only been at one crag or on one style of rock, be ready to start back and 10a again when you go somewhere else.
I think it's pretty common for someone to get into 11's within a few months provided you were in decent shape when you started. I've seen a lot of people plateau in the mid to hard 11's, and then take over a year to do their first 12.
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sungam
Jul 6, 2009, 1:01 AM
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Mikaelm wrote: I've been climbing for three months, and my red point is 5.11c so far. On sight is around 5.10+. Is this a normal increase in grades? If not what is the average grade increase.
dude, you suck. Train harder.
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bill413
Jul 6, 2009, 1:43 AM
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rtwilli4 wrote: Mikaelm wrote: I've been climbing for three months, and my red point is 5.11c so far. On sight is around 5.10+. Is this a normal increase in grades? If not what is the average grade increase. Where are you climbing? If you have only been at one crag or on one style of rock, be ready to start back and 10a at 5.7 again when you go somewhere else.
Fixed.
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rtwilli4
Jul 6, 2009, 2:30 AM
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bill413 wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: Mikaelm wrote: I've been climbing for three months, and my red point is 5.11c so far. On sight is around 5.10+. Is this a normal increase in grades? If not what is the average grade increase. Where are you climbing? If you have only been at one crag or on one style of rock, be ready to start back and 10a at 5.7 again when you go somewhere else. Fixed.
I'm an optimist
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marc801
Jul 6, 2009, 3:25 AM
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sungam wrote: Mikaelm wrote: I've been climbing for three months, and my red point is 5.11c so far. On sight is around 5.10+. Is this a normal increase in grades? If not what is the average grade increase. After a whole three months????? dude, you suck. Train harder. sprays claims.
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sungam
Jul 6, 2009, 3:26 AM
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marc801 wrote: sungam wrote: Mikaelm wrote: I've been climbing for three months, and my red point is 5.11c so far. On sight is around 5.10+. Is this a normal increase in grades? If not what is the average grade increase. After a whole three months????? dude, you suck. Train harder. Apparently he's confused about both bouldering vs lead grades and the concept of redpoint, so I wouldn't put too much faith in what he sprays claims.
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bill413
Jul 6, 2009, 12:21 PM
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sungam wrote: marc801 wrote: sungam wrote: Mikaelm wrote: I've been climbing for three months, and my red point is 5.11c so far. On sight is around 5.10+. Is this a normal increase in grades? If not what is the average grade increase. After a whole three months????? dude, you suck. Train harder. Apparently he's confused about both bouldering vs lead grades and the concept of redpoint, so I wouldn't put too much faith in what he sprays claims. HE MIGHT BE EVEN WORSE?????
Be kind (hah!). Some folks just don't progress at the same speed.
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chilli
Jul 6, 2009, 12:33 PM
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Mikaelm wrote: I've been climbing for three months, and my red point is 5.11c so far. On sight is around 5.10+. Is this a normal increase in grades? If not what is the average grade increase.
yikes. i'm sorry to say you're really lagging behind. i was doing 5.13's within 2 months and 5.15's within 6. you might want to consider taking up some other sport, seriously - maybe something that involves teamwork so everything isn't just dependent on (or highlighting) your capabilities. i don't really want somebody who sucks that bad stinking/spraying up my crag. i like my rock slobber-free, thank you very much.
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Myxomatosis
Jul 7, 2009, 12:33 AM
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Don't worry about grades... there will always be a climb way under your "level" that will shoot you down so hard you will want to give up climbing.
Or my personal favourite.. send a route a few months before then you can't climb the damn thing again.
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REAL
Jul 21, 2009, 5:25 AM
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This is such a good thread. i have a route at the gym that some days I ace it, er sorry, gotta get into the spirit of things, sometimes I REDPOINT IT!!! Some days I chicken wing it. Just part of the growth and conditioning I guess. And as for the different styles, man can I attest to that. I did a 5.9 this weekend that paled in comparison to a 5.7 from the next day. <inser sarcasm> I couldn't figure out why the juggy 5.9 seemed so much easier than the edgy 5.7... <palm to face>
EDIT:
Added Question, cause I am a newb... does onsight really even relate to sport climbing? I mean, there are bolts, within reach of where youare supposed to be, right? IDK, maybe its just me...
(This post was edited by REAL on Jul 21, 2009, 5:29 AM)
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sungam
Jul 21, 2009, 7:12 AM
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REAL wrote: Added Question, cause I am a newb... does onsight really even relate to sport climbing? I mean, there are bolts, within reach of where youare supposed to be, right? IDK, maybe its just me...
It's still relivant, but not to bouldering (except maybe highballing).
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