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rcguy
Sep 12, 2007, 9:51 PM
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So you come to a lowering station. You have two chains coming to a single rap ring. Would you thread the two chains and lower off or thread just the one rap ring or a combo of both? Assume everything is bomber, bolts, hangars, chains etc.. Peace.
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potreroed
Sep 12, 2007, 9:54 PM
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Assuming everything is bomber you just thread through the ring and abseil away. Of course, assuming anything, in climbing, can be very dangerous.
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ja1484
Sep 12, 2007, 10:43 PM
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You have the option of redundancy at no extra cost for time, equipment, etc. Why wouldn't you use it?
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caughtinside
Sep 12, 2007, 10:49 PM
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If the rap ring is made of solid steel I rap of the single ring. If it's just one of those flimsy hollow aluminum things, I probably leave a biner on that anchor with the ring. Although, I've seen now OP makes solid aluminum rings, rated to 25kn or so? One of those is probably good enough.
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rocknice2
Sep 13, 2007, 12:38 AM
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caughtinside wrote: If the rap ring is made of solid steel I rap of the single ring. If it's just one of those flimsy hollow aluminum things, I probably leave a biner on that anchor with the ring. Although, I've seen now OP makes solid aluminum rings, rated to 25kn or so? One of those is probably good enough. Ya, don't you just hate it when you find those rolled aluminum ring at the end of a 3/8 chain.
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overlord
Sep 13, 2007, 10:54 AM
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caughtinside wrote: If the rap ring is made of solid steel I rap of the single ring. If it's just one of those flimsy hollow aluminum things, I probably leave a biner on that anchor with the ring. Although, I've seen now OP makes solid aluminum rings, rated to 25kn or so? One of those is probably good enough. ditto that. but if its even a solid aluminium ring, you do need to rappel. aluminium wears fast.
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chossmonkey
Sep 13, 2007, 11:26 AM
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Assuming the "ring" equalizes the two chains, is made of steel and isn't excessively worn, just through the ring and lower away. If the ring gives you the willies then thread it through the chains and rap off.
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whiskeybullets
Sep 13, 2007, 12:38 PM
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it's funny that you ask about lowering off but still call it a rapell ring.
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campo
Sep 13, 2007, 3:05 PM
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First of all, if you are lowering as opposed to rapping, then you are a douchebag. Its called a rap ring for a reason buddy, use it for that.
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chossmonkey
Sep 13, 2007, 8:41 PM
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campo wrote: First of all, if you are lowering as opposed to rapping, then you are a douchebag. Its called a rap ring for a reason buddy, use it for that. Either a douche bag or stripping a steep route. Both suck, but not as much as trying to rap while stripping a steep route.
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the_climber
Sep 13, 2007, 8:51 PM
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rcguy wrote: So you come to a lowering station. *snip* Hold the Phone! WTF! Since when did and anchors become know as "lowering stations"? *Gives head a shake* Must be one of those wierd Sport wanker terms. Carry on...
(This post was edited by the_climber on Sep 13, 2007, 9:48 PM)
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sketchypro
Sep 13, 2007, 9:36 PM
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I would RAP off the ring, since I "Assume everything is bomber" But I'm with the_climber, what the hell is a "lowering station" saw it here too: http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=38&type=gearguy
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chossmonkey
Sep 13, 2007, 9:48 PM
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Well it is in the sport climbing forum. The anchors at the top of sport routes are generally lower offs unless they have those shitty Metolius Rap hangers that twist the fuck out of your rope if you lower.
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stymingersfink
Sep 15, 2007, 12:14 AM
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rcguy wrote: So you come to a lowering station. You have two chains coming to a single rap ring. Would you thread the two chains and lower off or thread just the one rap ring or a combo of both? Assume everything is bomber, bolts, hangars, chains etc.. Peace. quite simply, it is most gracious to observe common etiquette and never lower through fixed hardware. You may rap from wherever would facilitate the easiest pull-through of the rope.
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jakedatc
Sep 15, 2007, 6:05 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: rcguy wrote: So you come to a lowering station. You have two chains coming to a single rap ring. Would you thread the two chains and lower off or thread just the one rap ring or a combo of both? Assume everything is bomber, bolts, hangars, chains etc.. Peace. quite simply, it is most gracious to observe common etiquette and never lower through fixed hardware. You may rap from wherever would facilitate the easiest pull-through of the rope.
Down clean this on rappel please... thanks (or don't because those are semi fixed draws and lowering off is the best way down) Please observe LOCAL ethics and get down the BEST way. This could be having the last climber lower off or rappel if it can be done in the situation at hand.. Don't mind the others spraying generalized statements to the world.. (if i was the last one cleaning the OP route on TR i'd rap off the ring.. if i was leading and i had to clean the gear.. i'd lower off the ring if it looked good) Trad forum is one row down folks
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Sep 15, 2007, 1:47 PM)
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stymingersfink
Sep 15, 2007, 6:13 PM
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jakedatc wrote: stymingersfink wrote: rcguy wrote: So you come to a lowering station. You have two chains coming to a single rap ring. Would you thread the two chains and lower off or thread just the one rap ring or a combo of both? Assume everything is bomber, bolts, hangars, chains etc.. Peace. quite simply, it is most gracious to observe common etiquette and never lower through fixed hardware. You may rap from wherever would facilitate the easiest pull-through of the rope. Down clean this on rappel please... thanks (or don't because those are semi fixed draws and lowering off is the best way down) Please observe LOCAL ethics and get down the BEST way. This could be having the last climber lower off or rappel if it can be done in the situation at hand.. Don't mind the others spraying generalized statements to the world.. (if i was the last one cleaning the OP route on TR i'd rap off the ring.. if i was leading and i had to clean the gear.. i'd lower off the ring if it looked good) Trad forum is one row down folks Sure, I'll clean those draws. Fix a line, jug and clean. The aid forum is two rows down. I guess what I'm saying is, if he has to ask, he obviously doesn't know what the local ethic is, in which case (unless he spends countless weekends replacing fixed hardware paid for out of his own pocket), perhaps the most respectful way is as I said in my original post. If he were on a route such as the one pictured above, he would have enough experience to know what needs to be done and the safest way to do it. I'll stand behind my original answer, thanks. It gets my goat to see newer climbers TRing and lowering through the chains when it is obviously due to a lack of etiquette, which is usually attributable to a lack of knowledge.
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jakedatc
Sep 15, 2007, 6:57 PM
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yes.. i get pissed at TRing through gear also.. which is why i said the last person lowering off.. Local ethic .. maybe that is what you meant by general ethic.. it depends on the area.. i have heard in desert situations chains get chewed up worse than out here so that is a time for rapping.
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stymingersfink
Sep 15, 2007, 10:17 PM
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yeah, the desert is hard on hardware, gear and ropes. Don't see too many clip-ups with that much overhang though (at least I haven't) we're pretty much on the same page it sounds like to me. Drop me a line if you're ever out this way and want to get in some routes.
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