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Lowering off Dilemma
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rcguy


Sep 12, 2007, 9:51 PM
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Lowering off Dilemma
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So you come to a lowering station. You have two chains coming to a single rap ring. Would you thread the two chains and lower off or thread just the one rap ring or a combo of both? Assume everything is bomber, bolts, hangars, chains etc.. Peace.


potreroed


Sep 12, 2007, 9:54 PM
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Re: [rcguy] Lowering off Dilemma [In reply to]
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Assuming everything is bomber you just thread through the ring and abseil away.

Of course, assuming anything, in climbing, can be very dangerous.


ja1484


Sep 12, 2007, 10:43 PM
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Re: [rcguy] Lowering off Dilemma [In reply to]
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You have the option of redundancy at no extra cost for time, equipment, etc.

Why wouldn't you use it?


caughtinside


Sep 12, 2007, 10:49 PM
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Re: [rcguy] Lowering off Dilemma [In reply to]
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If the rap ring is made of solid steel I rap of the single ring. If it's just one of those flimsy hollow aluminum things, I probably leave a biner on that anchor with the ring.

Although, I've seen now OP makes solid aluminum rings, rated to 25kn or so? One of those is probably good enough.


rocknice2


Sep 13, 2007, 12:38 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] Lowering off Dilemma [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
If the rap ring is made of solid steel I rap of the single ring. If it's just one of those flimsy hollow aluminum things, I probably leave a biner on that anchor with the ring.

Although, I've seen now OP makes solid aluminum rings, rated to 25kn or so? One of those is probably good enough.

Ya, don't you just hate it when you find those rolled aluminum ring at the end of a 3/8 chain.


overlord


Sep 13, 2007, 10:54 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] Lowering off Dilemma [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
If the rap ring is made of solid steel I rap of the single ring. If it's just one of those flimsy hollow aluminum things, I probably leave a biner on that anchor with the ring.

Although, I've seen now OP makes solid aluminum rings, rated to 25kn or so? One of those is probably good enough.

ditto that.

but if its even a solid aluminium ring, you do need to rappel. aluminium wears fast.


chossmonkey


Sep 13, 2007, 11:26 AM
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Re: [rcguy] Lowering off Dilemma [In reply to]
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Assuming the "ring" equalizes the two chains, is made of steel and isn't excessively worn, just through the ring and lower away. If the ring gives you the willies then thread it through the chains and rap off.


whiskeybullets


Sep 13, 2007, 12:38 PM
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Re: [rcguy] Lowering off Dilemma [In reply to]
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it's funny that you ask about lowering off but still call it a rapell ring.


campo


Sep 13, 2007, 3:05 PM
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Re: [whiskeybullets] Lowering off Dilemma [In reply to]
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First of all, if you are lowering as opposed to rapping, then you are a douchebag.

Its called a rap ring for a reason buddy, use it for that.


chossmonkey


Sep 13, 2007, 8:41 PM
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Re: [campo] Lowering off Dilemma [In reply to]
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campo wrote:
First of all, if you are lowering as opposed to rapping, then you are a douchebag.

Its called a rap ring for a reason buddy, use it for that.
Either a douche bag or stripping a steep route. Both suck, but not as much as trying to rap while stripping a steep route.


the_climber


Sep 13, 2007, 8:51 PM
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Re: [rcguy] Lowering off Dilemma [In reply to]
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rcguy wrote:
So you come to a lowering station. *snip*

Hold the Phone! WTF!

Since when did and anchors become know as "lowering stations"?

*Gives head a shake*

Must be one of those wierd Sport wanker terms.



Carry on...


(This post was edited by the_climber on Sep 13, 2007, 9:48 PM)


sketchypro


Sep 13, 2007, 9:36 PM
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Re: [rcguy] Lowering off Dilemma [In reply to]
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I would RAP off the ring, since I
"Assume everything is bomber"

But I'm with the_climber, what the hell is a "lowering station"

saw it here too:
http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=38&type=gearguy


chossmonkey


Sep 13, 2007, 9:48 PM
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Re: [sketchypro] Lowering off Dilemma [In reply to]
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Well it is in the sport climbing forum. The anchors at the top of sport routes are generally lower offs unless they have those shitty Metolius Rap hangers that twist the fuck out of your rope if you lower.


stymingersfink


Sep 15, 2007, 12:14 AM
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Re: [rcguy] Lowering off Dilemma [In reply to]
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rcguy wrote:
So you come to a lowering station. You have two chains coming to a single rap ring. Would you thread the two chains and lower off or thread just the one rap ring or a combo of both? Assume everything is bomber, bolts, hangars, chains etc.. Peace.
quite simply, it is most gracious to observe common etiquette and never lower through fixed hardware.

You may rap from wherever would facilitate the easiest pull-through of the rope.


jakedatc


Sep 15, 2007, 6:05 AM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Lowering off Dilemma [In reply to]
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stymingersfink wrote:
rcguy wrote:
So you come to a lowering station. You have two chains coming to a single rap ring. Would you thread the two chains and lower off or thread just the one rap ring or a combo of both? Assume everything is bomber, bolts, hangars, chains etc.. Peace.
quite simply, it is most gracious to observe common etiquette and never lower through fixed hardware.

You may rap from wherever would facilitate the easiest pull-through of the rope.


Down clean this on rappel please... thanks (or don't because those are semi fixed draws and lowering off is the best way down)

Please observe LOCAL ethics and get down the BEST way. This could be having the last climber lower off or rappel if it can be done in the situation at hand.. Don't mind the others spraying generalized statements to the world.. (if i was the last one cleaning the OP route on TR i'd rap off the ring.. if i was leading and i had to clean the gear.. i'd lower off the ring if it looked good)

Trad forum is one row down folks


(This post was edited by jakedatc on Sep 15, 2007, 1:47 PM)


stymingersfink


Sep 15, 2007, 6:13 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] Lowering off Dilemma [In reply to]
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jakedatc wrote:
stymingersfink wrote:
rcguy wrote:
So you come to a lowering station. You have two chains coming to a single rap ring. Would you thread the two chains and lower off or thread just the one rap ring or a combo of both? Assume everything is bomber, bolts, hangars, chains etc.. Peace.
quite simply, it is most gracious to observe common etiquette and never lower through fixed hardware.

You may rap from wherever would facilitate the easiest pull-through of the rope.


Down clean this on rappel please... thanks (or don't because those are semi fixed draws and lowering off is the best way down)

Please observe LOCAL ethics and get down the BEST way. This could be having the last climber lower off or rappel if it can be done in the situation at hand.. Don't mind the others spraying generalized statements to the world.. (if i was the last one cleaning the OP route on TR i'd rap off the ring.. if i was leading and i had to clean the gear.. i'd lower off the ring if it looked good)

Trad forum is one row down folks
Sure, I'll clean those draws. Fix a line, jug and clean. The aid forum is two rows down.Wink

I guess what I'm saying is, if he has to ask, he obviously doesn't know what the local ethic is, in which case (unless he spends countless weekends replacing fixed hardware paid for out of his own pocket), perhaps the most respectful way is as I said in my original post.

If he were on a route such as the one pictured above, he would have enough experience to know what needs to be done and the safest way to do it. I'll stand behind my original answer, thanks.

It gets my goat to see newer climbers TRing and lowering through the chains when it is obviously due to a lack of etiquette, which is usually attributable to a lack of knowledge.


jakedatc


Sep 15, 2007, 6:57 PM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Lowering off Dilemma [In reply to]
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yes.. i get pissed at TRing through gear also.. which is why i said the last person lowering off.. Local ethic .. maybe that is what you meant by general ethic.. it depends on the area.. i have heard in desert situations chains get chewed up worse than out here so that is a time for rapping.


stymingersfink


Sep 15, 2007, 10:17 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] Lowering off Dilemma [In reply to]
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yeah, the desert is hard on hardware, gear and ropes. Don't see too many clip-ups with that much overhang though (at least I haven't)

we're pretty much on the same page it sounds like to me. Drop me a line if you're ever out this way and want to get in some routes. Wink

 

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