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Cds26
Jul 12, 2012, 2:39 AM
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Registered: Jun 19, 2012
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Hey! I realize this question may come off as noobish, but I feel that its important to ask questions and check small details for safety. When setting up an anchor on a multipitch sport climb, how should one do this? Also, what should you do if there is climbing traffic on the wall?
I have heard clove hitches attached to two lockers on bolts can work, but what about a figure eight on a bite? What is a simple and safe method that can consistently work for sport climbs?
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USnavy
Jul 12, 2012, 3:13 AM
Post #3 of 17
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When dealing with bolted anchors on a free climb, I keep things as simple as humanly possible. I take a standard trad draw (2' quickdraw), I throw one biner on each bolt, I do a sliding X, and I throw my GriGri on the sliding X. Done. I can set it up in ten seconds. Usually I will add in a second sling to keep things redundant if the rock is a bit sharp. If it is really sharp, I will tie a overhand knot in the sling instead of a sliding X.
When dealing with bomber multidirectional anchor components (AKA bolts), there is absolutely no need to get crazy and start making overly complex anchors. Choose an option that is simple and quick to setup.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Jul 12, 2012, 3:14 AM)
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ecade
Jul 12, 2012, 4:51 PM
Post #5 of 17
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agree with USnavy, simple, quick, srene name of the game. i do 1 or two things differently or perhaps i misunderstood his post and do things identically. either way differences are minute and a matter of preference.
On two perfectly spaced, good quality bolts:
I clove into 1 bolt with the rope and use my purcell prussik for the second bolt, voila 2 independant tethers. I like clove, quicker to tie (with some practice) can be tied one hand easily (with some practice) easily adjustable if you need to.
for anchor:
I carry a nylon (my trad draws are dyneema and I prefer nylon for this application, better at abrasion) 120 sling (sometimes a 240 but usually a 120 is perfect) with limiter knots tied and 2 biners placed where i need them (2 to connect to bolts) and my ATC guide with 2 lockers. I also bring a a dyneema 24" sling and 2 non lockers in case 2nd needs to be lowered mid follow. I ussually have the sling clipped across the shoulders and atc with biners on back harness loops
nothing against gri-gris use mine often, but i only own a gri gri 1 and for muilti pitches since i use my atc to rap why carry the extra weight, but eh its preference.
and with that,
I am leaving the office and off to paddle the upper missinaibi river... 9 days of spirit painted waters on the journey to the northern sky!!!
Happy n Safe climbing y'all
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potreroed
Jul 12, 2012, 6:23 PM
Post #6 of 17
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USnavy wrote: When dealing with bolted anchors on a free climb, I keep things as simple as humanly possible. I take a standard trad draw (2' quickdraw), I throw one biner on each bolt, I do a sliding X, and I throw my GriGri on the sliding X. Done. I can set it up in ten seconds. Usually I will add in a second sling to keep things redundant if the rock is a bit sharp. If it is really sharp, I will tie a overhand knot in the sling instead of a sliding X. When dealing with bomber multidirectional anchor components (AKA bolts), there is absolutely no need to get crazy and start making overly complex anchors. Choose an option that is simple and quick to setup.
The only problem here is that you are not telling us how you are connected to the anchors.
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acorneau
Jul 13, 2012, 2:53 AM
Post #7 of 17
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Assuming you're swinging leads:
Clove hitch bolt #1, loop out about 2' of slack, clove hitch bolt #2, use a locker to clove hitch the free end back to your belay loop. (Viola, you're now in both bolts!)
With the loop of rope between the bolts either tie an fig-8/overhand on a bight for a master point or if you didn't leave enough just clove hitch a locker there. Instant master point!
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USnavy
Jul 19, 2012, 5:35 AM
Post #8 of 17
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potreroed wrote: USnavy wrote: When dealing with bolted anchors on a free climb, I keep things as simple as humanly possible. I take a standard trad draw (2' quickdraw), I throw one biner on each bolt, I do a sliding X, and I throw my GriGri on the sliding X. Done. I can set it up in ten seconds. Usually I will add in a second sling to keep things redundant if the rock is a bit sharp. If it is really sharp, I will tie a overhand knot in the sling instead of a sliding X. When dealing with bomber multidirectional anchor components (AKA bolts), there is absolutely no need to get crazy and start making overly complex anchors. Choose an option that is simple and quick to setup. The only problem here is that you are not telling us how you are connected to the anchors.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Jul 19, 2012, 5:41 AM)
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Cds26
Jul 24, 2012, 9:28 PM
Post #9 of 17
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Registered: Jun 19, 2012
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Wow there is a lot of good information here! If I use 2 clove hitches and then a figure eight on bite for a master point, how should one connect to the master point to belay and keep things organized? How should one connect if both u and ur partner are chilling at the belay station?
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acorneau
Jul 24, 2012, 9:38 PM
Post #10 of 17
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Cds26 wrote: ... how should one connect to the master point to belay and keep things organized?
Like I said before: Clove hitch your lead rope to bolt #1, loop out about 2' of slack, clove hitch again to bolt #2, use a locker to clove hitch the free end back to your belay loop.
In reply to: How should one connect if both u and ur partner are chilling at the belay station?
Second should clove into the master point with the rope. Belayer is already into both bolts via the method I just described above.
(This post was edited by acorneau on Jul 24, 2012, 9:41 PM)
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Ned_Ludd
Sep 5, 2012, 3:29 AM
Post #11 of 17
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I just moved, climbing with new people and I keep seeing a similar anchor set up on bolts with different partners.
2 bolts
Sling girth hitched around one bolt and carabiner to the other
knot to equalize.
What are people thoughts on girth hitching a bolt for an anchor. Seeing it the first time I was shocked, but I keep seeing the girth hitch on a bolt 
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dagibbs
Sep 5, 2012, 4:51 AM
Post #12 of 17
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Ned_Ludd wrote: I just moved, climbing with new people and I keep seeing a similar anchor set up on bolts with different partners. 2 bolts Sling girth hitched around one bolt and carabiner to the other knot to equalize. What are people thoughts on girth hitching a bolt for an anchor. Seeing it the first time I was shocked, but I keep seeing the girth hitch on a bolt
What kind of bolt hangar?
If "normal" bolt hangars, as you'd have on the route, with sharp edges and a fairly small profile -- I'd say a big no to this.
If "fatty" bolt hangars, ones that I'd rap off and be willing to pull a rope through, or rap-rings or siimilar -- I don't see a problem with this. I probably wouldn't do it, but should be fine. (Ok, some loss of strength in the sling on the girth hitch, but not too worried about that.)
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bearbreeder
Sep 5, 2012, 5:16 AM
Post #13 of 17
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through a ring or fat chain is also fine ...
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gunkiemike
Oct 17, 2012, 9:56 PM
Post #14 of 17
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Ned_Ludd wrote: I just moved, climbing with new people and I keep seeing a similar anchor set up on bolts with different partners. 2 bolts Sling girth hitched around one bolt and carabiner to the other knot to equalize. What are people thoughts on girth hitching a bolt for an anchor. Seeing it the first time I was shocked, but I keep seeing the girth hitch on a bolt
I used to do this routinely, to bolts that have nice smooth rap rings on them though (never to a potentially sharp hanger). Since my 4 ft slings that I use are the real skinny Dyneema ones (Mammut) and they tend to cinch down real tight, someone pointed out that if a bumblie second couldn't undue the girth hitch (tough to imagine, I know), that I'd lose the sling. And it's weaker than just using a biner. Two not-totally-insignificant disadvantages vs. the generally pointless saving of a biner. So I quit doing it.
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Ned_Ludd
Oct 18, 2012, 1:32 AM
Post #15 of 17
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gunkiemike wrote: ... I used to do this routinely,... my 4 ft slings that I use are the real skinny Dyneema ones (Mammut) and they tend to cinch down real tight, someone pointed out that if a bumblie second couldn't undue the girth hitch (tough to imagine, I know), that I'd lose the sling. And it's weaker than just using a biner. Two not-totally-insignificant disadvantages vs. the generally pointless saving of a biner. So I quit doing it.
Above, more or less my thoughts. I have been climbing for quite a while but I not so much in NA. It just struck me as weird how often I kept seeing the mentioned setup this season... Is it something in the water here? fall out from chernobyl? flu shots? |
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bearbreeder
Oct 18, 2012, 3:45 AM
Post #16 of 17
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it works fine through rings or the thick rap bolts ... climb enough multi and one of these days youll end up without almost no gear at the belay ... its valuable to know what to do at that point .. it saves a biner or two
just because it isnt normally the way you do things, doesnt mean its wrong
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ecade
Oct 18, 2012, 12:47 PM
Post #17 of 17
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Registered: Jun 23, 2011
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I like to use a purcell prussik to one point and a cloved in with another.
my thinking: two independant connections that are both dynamic, adjustable, quick and easy.
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