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coolcat83
May 8, 2008, 9:14 PM
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I've used a gri gri like that from the start, and it works well, i've also pointed it out to partners. i see people all too often use what petzl says is the "incorrect way" it creeps me out a little
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lena_chita
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May 9, 2008, 12:24 AM
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moondog wrote: Petzl has just released a video demonstrating a new technique for belaying with a GRIGRI:
"new", huh? I have been belaying this way since I have started lead-belaying with a gri-gri. The only difference is that I am left-handed, so I feed the rope with right hand, and use left hand on the brake side of the rope, and also to press down the cam for paying out slack quickly.
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majid_sabet
May 9, 2008, 12:32 AM
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my eyes are telling me that there is a redirect biner in use during lowering mode ( on this film).
Am I correct ?
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on May 9, 2008, 12:36 AM)
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gunksgoer
May 9, 2008, 12:50 AM
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Not rocket science.............
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hafilax
May 9, 2008, 1:06 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: my eyes are telling me that there is a redirect biner in use during lowering mode ( on this film). Am I correct ?
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GeneralBenson
May 9, 2008, 1:53 PM
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Man, what is up with that sterilized, white climbing facility. I know Petzl likes to test their stuff in a perfect envioroment, but wow. Do they share a factory with Intel? I was waiting for BLue Man Group to bust out with some crazy stuff. The skull in the red triangle means 'awesome', right? Cuz that was what I took away from it.
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bobruef
May 9, 2008, 2:44 PM
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I've never seen the "new technique". The common method of grasping the device to pinch and pay out slack gives me the willies though. I've always used something like the classic technique, but with a modified method for quickly paying out slack. It's similar to the new method.
I bring my right hand in while feeding, and lay my palm over the right side of the device. The right thumb reaches around the back and lays over the top of the cam device (similar to the new method, but without holding onto the rope). I like it because it doesn't require pinching the device, and in a fall would be hard to hold the cam open. The thumb would more likely pop off and the device would lock. Also, when done paying out slack, the right hand is in a good position to quickly slide back up the device and onto the rope. I like the hand maintained on the brake strand in the new method though.
(This post was edited by bobruef on May 9, 2008, 2:57 PM)
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kriso9tails
May 10, 2008, 12:33 AM
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lena_chita wrote: moondog wrote: Petzl has just released a video demonstrating a new technique for belaying with a GRIGRI: "new", huh? I have been belaying this way since I have started lead-belaying with a gri-gri. The only difference is that I am left-handed, so I feed the rope with right hand, and use left hand on the brake side of the rope, and also to press down the cam for paying out slack quickly.
I also belay left-handed and I find that for belaying lead the device is better suited that way. I keep my brake hand thumb up/ out, but I can easily block the brake lever with my little finger while keeping my brake hand on the rope, Much easier than either method they showed (not that either of those were all that difficult).
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docburner
May 10, 2008, 3:01 AM
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This is the technique I generally use. Some comments:
1. If you short the person then it is hard to give more slack, so you must pay attention. It is hard to unlock the cam with your thumb that way. (But also because of it, it makes it much safer, I think that if the climber fell during you giving slack you could not hold the cam open nearly as easy as the classic technique.)
2. If you use a old ratty thick rope it probably won't work as well, because the cam is more likely to engage and cause you to get in the first situation.
3. Make sure the rope is flaked well, as if it gets snagged you can more easilly end up engaging the cam then in the classical method. Generally after the climber clips, I pull in any extra slack that is out, lock off, and back flake ~10 feet of rope to ensure this doesn't happen, and then resume watching my climber.
As long as you use a rope that slides well through the grigri, and pay attention while you belay, this method feels much safer, and is easy to use.
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jmvc
May 10, 2008, 8:11 AM
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A good idea to put up a video of it.. I see many people using the tecnique petzl says is dangerous. While if done carefully it's not a one way ticket to the cementery, it's easy to do things a better way.
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kyote321
May 10, 2008, 1:23 PM
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i'm going to try the new technique today, but i can't see it working with anything thicker than a 9.8. there is just too much going on. when my leader wants slack to clip i give it give it like right now. to my eye there is too much complication going on with the new technique. and, i dont' see how my thumb only is strong enough to override the gri quickly and solidly enough to be effective for fast clips.
i guess i'm missing something here. i've been feeding out slack for clips the 'wrong' way for many many years.
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corson
May 10, 2008, 1:28 PM
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GeneralBenson wrote: Man, what is up with that sterilized, white climbing facility. I know Petzl likes to test their stuff in a perfect envioroment, but wow. Do they share a factory with Intel? I was waiting for BLue Man Group to bust out with some crazy stuff. The skull in the red triangle means 'awesome', right? Cuz that was what I took away from it.
Ya, tomorrow I'm gonna try my new petzle full body condom. Great for cleaning new routes and reppelling spray.
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GeneralBenson
May 10, 2008, 7:02 PM
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kyote321 wrote: i'm going to try the new technique today, but i can't see it working with anything thicker than a 9.8. there is just too much going on. when my leader wants slack to clip i give it give it like right now. to my eye there is too much complication going on with the new technique. and, i dont' see how my thumb only is strong enough to override the gri quickly and solidly enough to be effective for fast clips. i guess i'm missing something here. i've been feeding out slack for clips the 'wrong' way for many many years.
I thought it was going to be kind of awkward and slow too. But I tried it today, and it's pretty fast and smooth. I thought there would just be too much friction going through the loopedy loop and all that, but I guess I was wrong. You can throw all the rope you want at someone.
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lena_chita
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May 12, 2008, 4:31 PM
Post #15 of 24
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coolcat83 wrote: I've used a gri gri like that from the start, and it works well, i've also pointed it out to partners. i see people all too often use what petzl says is the "incorrect way" it creeps me out a little
You know, this past weekend I was paying patricular attention to what everyone else was doing at the crag, as far as belaying technique, because this video was still fresh in my mind, and I wanted to see how many people were using the 'classic' technique vs. so-called 'new' technique, b/c I didn't think it was all that 'new'-- after all, the guy who taught me to do that has been climbing and belaying that way for years...
But the eye-opener for me was that at least half of the gri-gri belayers seemed to be using the "incorrect way" shown at the end of the Petzl video, instead of using either 'classic' or 'new' technique.
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CaptainSpaulding
Jun 10, 2008, 5:03 AM
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Heard at my local crag:
Guy1: "But I don't know how to lead belay."
Guy2: "Don't worry man, as long as you use the Gri-gri, you can't mess up."
Classic.
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kricir
Jun 10, 2008, 7:27 AM
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I'v been using this "new" technique for several years
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bigfatrock
Jun 13, 2008, 2:20 PM
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Wow, a 70mb file online, took forever to download even on a high speed connection.
I don't see much difference than the classic technique, I don't belay with a GriGri much anyway because my partners don't like it, but I would like them to belay me with it, but they refuse (for sport).
I have hear from some it provides a much better catch. I have used it before my only problem has been is when the clip faster than expected and cam the device down quicker than I can get to it. But feeding out slack quickly has never been a problem
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vegastradguy
Jun 13, 2008, 3:27 PM
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i use the 'new' technique- i figured it out on my own after one season of sport climbing a couple years back. its the most common sense method in my mind- i think the classic method is sketch- the hand is coming off the brake line.
up until recently, i've never seen anyone belay with the new technique- most do the dangerous one or some variation of it that petzl shows in the video. my friends have all noticed the way i do it and have switched to that method.
on another note- this technique works with whatever diameter, although the fuzzier the rope, the tougher it can be to feed. i've belayed up to fuzzy 10.5 with no problems, though.
and i agree- whats with the all white studio? anyone else get the impression they were trying to sell the green rope?
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bigfatrock
Jun 13, 2008, 3:33 PM
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vegastradguy wrote: and i agree- whats with the all white studio? anyone else get the impression they were trying to sell the green rope?
The reverso video they have out is also demonstrated in the same environment. But I do want that green rope. I just don't know if it is that good of a rope. I love the Mammut ropes they don't seem to pick up much dirt.
Anyway that is OT. Back to the GriGri. They are a death trap!
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moondog
Jun 18, 2008, 4:13 PM
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vegastradguy wrote: whats with the all white studio? anyone else get the impression they were trying to sell the green rope?
The white background and clothing were chosen to enhance visibility of the device, rope, etc. The idea was to make it easier for the viewer to observe the techniques being demonstrated.
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vegastradguy
Jun 18, 2008, 8:05 PM
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moondog wrote: vegastradguy wrote: whats with the all white studio? anyone else get the impression they were trying to sell the green rope? The white background and clothing were chosen to enhance visibility of the device, rope, etc. The idea was to make it easier for the viewer to observe the techniques being demonstrated.
obviously- but it comes across as sterile and uninviting....
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jt512
Jun 18, 2008, 11:07 PM
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moondog wrote: vegastradguy wrote: it comes across as sterile and uninviting.... obviously! 
It comes across as weird surrealistic French cinema. Go figure.
Jay
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