|
Mccohenster
Oct 5, 2009, 3:11 AM
Post #1 of 9
(4511 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2007
Posts: 16
|
I am planning to take a trip to Rumney but all I have is a trad rack. I don't want to go out and purchase a full set of quick draws, so I figured I would just link two carabiners to the ends of the shortest slings. Other than bulkiest is there anything bad about doing this? Is this fairly common?
|
|
|
|
|
coolcat83
Oct 5, 2009, 3:14 AM
Post #2 of 9
(4507 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2007
Posts: 1007
|
you might chew up the bolt end biners, you could just buy some dogbones for a couple bucks each and make some sport draws with the biners you have. Would be less of a pain and cluster.
|
|
|
|
|
LostinMaine
Oct 6, 2009, 7:34 PM
Post #3 of 9
(4382 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 8, 2007
Posts: 539
|
Mccohenster wrote: I am planning to take a trip to Rumney but all I have is a trad rack. I don't want to go out and purchase a full set of quick draws, so I figured I would just link two carabiners to the ends of the shortest slings. Other than bulkiest is there anything bad about doing this? Is this fairly common?
Haven't you ever clipped a bolt on a trad lead? Is it really that much different because you go to a sport crag?
Any time I chalk up at a sport crag, I get laughed at for my trad draws. Piss on 'em. You'll be fine (but do check the bolt-side 'biners). It's a bit bulky for a sport rack, but it seems downright tiny compared to a standard lead rack.
Oh.. and just hope nobody is "noob testing" you at the base of the crag as you approach with your red rope...
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Oct 7, 2009, 1:48 PM
Post #4 of 9
(4336 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
coolcat83 wrote: you might chew up the bolt end biners, you could just buy some dogbones for a couple bucks each and make some sport draws with the biners you have. Would be less of a pain and cluster.
You know the hangers don't actually bite the biners that are just hanging there minding their own business. You have to fall on them. A lot. Hard.
This overblown histeria regarding nicks out of bolt end biners is in the same vain as if you back clip you are going to immediately die or we will all be dead from swine flu. by t-day. These are all possibilities and you should be aware of them but for the trad climb going on one casual outing to Rumney it shouldn't be a major consideration. Check your gear after a significant fall. Be aware that if the draw that took the brunt of the fall was clipped to a thin hanger (as opposed to a glue-in eye bolt) that it may have been nicked - check for it.
If it's marred save it for making a draw. I think it's pretty silly to be majorily swapping your gear around - more important to get comfotrable using what you have consistently. Be aware of compramises and trade offs involved brought on by your choices.
|
|
|
|
|
coolcat83
Oct 7, 2009, 2:39 PM
Post #5 of 9
(4316 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2007
Posts: 1007
|
olderic wrote: coolcat83 wrote: you might chew up the bolt end biners, you could just buy some dogbones for a couple bucks each and make some sport draws with the biners you have. Would be less of a pain and cluster. You know the hangers don't actually bite the biners that are just hanging there minding their own business. You have to fall on them. A lot. Hard. This overblown histeria regarding nicks out of bolt end biners is in the same vain as if you back clip you are going to immediately die or we will all be dead from swine flu. by t-day. These are all possibilities and you should be aware of them but for the trad climb going on one casual outing to Rumney it shouldn't be a major consideration. Check your gear after a significant fall. Be aware that if the draw that took the brunt of the fall was clipped to a thin hanger (as opposed to a glue-in eye bolt) that it may have been nicked - check for it. If it's marred save it for making a draw. I think it's pretty silly to be majorily swapping your gear around - more important to get comfotrable using what you have consistently. Be aware of compramises and trade offs involved brought on by your choices.
If course I know that they don't just get nicked up hanging there, but if you work routes over and over they might. I belive the OP asked if he could. As for majorly swapping around, compared to a trad rack making a few sport draws should be fairly painless. That said i'd get some dedicated draws if you were going to sport a lot because you can't always bet on having glu ins.
P.S. I've seen someone deck from a back clip, so i'd say it's not that overblown, and why not correct something so simple?
|
|
|
|
|
climbingaggie03
Oct 7, 2009, 3:45 PM
Post #6 of 9
(4285 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2004
Posts: 1173
|
olderic wrote: coolcat83 wrote: you might chew up the bolt end biners, you could just buy some dogbones for a couple bucks each and make some sport draws with the biners you have. Would be less of a pain and cluster. You know the hangers don't actually bite the biners that are just hanging there minding their own business. You have to fall on them. A lot. Hard. This overblown histeria regarding nicks out of bolt end biners is in the same vain as if you back clip you are going to immediately die or we will all be dead from swine flu. by t-day. These are all possibilities and you should be aware of them but for the trad climb going on one casual outing to Rumney it shouldn't be a major consideration. Check your gear after a significant fall. Be aware that if the draw that took the brunt of the fall was clipped to a thin hanger (as opposed to a glue-in eye bolt) that it may have been nicked - check for it. If it's marred save it for making a draw. I think it's pretty silly to be majorily swapping your gear around - more important to get comfotrable using what you have consistently. Be aware of compramises and trade offs involved brought on by your choices.
My experience says otherwise, obviously just clipping a bolt isn't going to hurt a biner, but I've put good scratches and gouges in biners just by clipping them to bolts and aiding off of them. I don't think 250lbs of force is equal to falling alot, hard. I'm not saying that you need specialized sport gear just for clipping bolts, especially since when I was a sport climber, my draws never got messed up by bolts, but it definitely is something to be aware of and check for on a consistent basis.
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Oct 7, 2009, 6:59 PM
Post #7 of 9
(4233 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
climbingaggie03 wrote: olderic wrote: coolcat83 wrote: you might chew up the bolt end biners, you could just buy some dogbones for a couple bucks each and make some sport draws with the biners you have. Would be less of a pain and cluster. You know the hangers don't actually bite the biners that are just hanging there minding their own business. You have to fall on them. A lot. Hard. This overblown histeria regarding nicks out of bolt end biners is in the same vain as if you back clip you are going to immediately die or we will all be dead from swine flu. by t-day. These are all possibilities and you should be aware of them but for the trad climb going on one casual outing to Rumney it shouldn't be a major consideration. Check your gear after a significant fall. Be aware that if the draw that took the brunt of the fall was clipped to a thin hanger (as opposed to a glue-in eye bolt) that it may have been nicked - check for it. If it's marred save it for making a draw. I think it's pretty silly to be majorily swapping your gear around - more important to get comfotrable using what you have consistently. Be aware of compramises and trade offs involved brought on by your choices. My experience says otherwise, obviously just clipping a bolt isn't going to hurt a biner, but I've put good scratches and gouges in biners just by clipping them to bolts and aiding off of them. I don't think 250lbs of force is equal to falling alot, hard. I'm not saying that you need specialized sport gear just for clipping bolts, especially since when I was a sport climber, my draws never got messed up by bolts, but it definitely is something to be aware of and check for on a consistent basis.
I would bet a significant amount that Eric's experience FAR exceeds your own... by.. decades.
Aiding on them would have a significant amount more force than even hanging on a draw. unless you're so balanced that you can step up without moving the biner on the bolt hanger. it's going to shift and gouge the biner.
That said.. for a random trip doubling up some shoulder length slings making sure to keep on side on the bolt side so that you only risk half of them. check them afterward for any major damage and call it good.
10-12 draws will get you up most things at rumney.. 16 is what i carry for some of the longer routes.
|
|
|
|
|
redlude97
Oct 7, 2009, 9:51 PM
Post #8 of 9
(4177 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2008
Posts: 990
|
Another trick I've seen people use is to either tape or rubber band slings to make them stiffer and easier to clip as well as keeping the orientation of the bolt side biner straighter as well
|
|
|
|
|
pylonhead
Oct 7, 2009, 10:16 PM
Post #9 of 9
(4157 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2004
Posts: 283
|
redlude97 wrote: Another trick I've seen people use is to either tape or rubber band slings to make them stiffer and easier to clip as well as keeping the orientation of the bolt side biner straighter as well
If you're going to do that, be sure to watch the video midway down this page:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=46912
Something to think about...
(This post was edited by pylonhead on Oct 7, 2009, 10:17 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
