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kingjawsh
Sep 25, 2009, 6:11 PM
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Registered: May 5, 2004
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Well i'm probley gonna get flamed all to hell for this but i gotta ask regardless.
I'm heading to squamish to boulder and i know theres some bolted pitches on the chief but was wondering if there are any fully bolt lines from bottom to top?
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hafilax
Sep 25, 2009, 6:20 PM
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Registered: Dec 12, 2007
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Stairway to Heaven is a link up of a bunch of bolted pitches through the Bullet Heads and up the upper black dike. 18p 10b. It's in the latest McLane guide. Be prepared for some run outs; I wouldn't really call it a sport route.
For that matter there's the Black Dike. 
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hafilax
Sep 25, 2009, 6:35 PM
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Registered: Dec 12, 2007
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kriso9tails wrote: hafilax wrote: For that matter there's the Black Dike. And she'll lead the unbolted sections for him?
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rockandlice
Sep 26, 2009, 9:34 PM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2008
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kriso9tails wrote: hafilax wrote: For that matter there's the Black Dike. And she'll lead the unbolted sections for him?
Haha. +1
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mar_leclerc
Sep 27, 2009, 7:21 PM
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Registered: Jun 1, 2008
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All you need for Black Dyke is like 14 draws, big balls for the runout sections and some sick skills for the Nubian Queen Roof....
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irregularpanda
Sep 27, 2009, 8:19 PM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2007
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mar_leclerc wrote: All you need for Black Dyke is like 14 draws, big balls for the runout sections and some sick skills for the Nubian Queen Roof....
And height helps for the "wild starfish stemming maneuver". My vote goes out for the ultimate everything, although you will need some gear. Check the guidebooks, and make friends so you can borrow it, it's definitely worth the trouble.
It's a 5.9 way up the chief, and there's just a pitch or two that requires gear. Don't do it on a weekend.
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coastal_climber
Oct 4, 2009, 12:39 AM
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Registered: Nov 17, 2006
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The grand wall was bolted last weekend to make it more accessible. 19 draws will get you up.
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bradley3297
Oct 4, 2009, 12:57 AM
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Registered: May 5, 2008
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world class trad destination. so so sport climbing destination. stairway to heaven requires a couple pieces of gear on the millenium falcon pitches unless you like runouts. the actual route is incomplete. you do 2 pitches of millenium falcon off bellygood ledge. then after 2 pitches on traverse of the gods you finish up the last pitch of upper black dyke. soo basically the first half is sport bolted and the upper half is shit your pants bolted.
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