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coolcatpet4e
Sep 19, 2008, 5:23 AM
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Sorry for the following noobish questions, but I am a trad climber and I dont know about all of this sport stuff. However I am going to rumney soon and I am curious about a few things, mostly being quick clips.
So upon research I have figured out what these are, however....
They are for lowering, right?
Can one top rope from these?
Should you clip quick draws to anything?
Any other useful info would be great, or if there are any crazy things I should know about sport climbing.
-Pete
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climbingaggie03
Sep 19, 2008, 5:35 AM
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what is a quick clip? do you mean quick draw? or are you talking about cold shuts?
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coolcatpet4e
Sep 19, 2008, 5:44 AM
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From reading beta on rumney it looks as if they have these or something similar, I just dont want to commit any no no's.
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time2clmb
Sep 19, 2008, 5:48 AM
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coolcatpet4e wrote: Sorry for the following noobish questions, but I am a trad climber and I dont know about all of this sport stuff. However I am going to rumney soon and I am curious about a few things, mostly being quick clips. So upon research I have figured out what these are, however.... They are for lowering, right? Can one top rope from these? Should you clip quick draws to anything? Any other useful info would be great, or if there are any crazy things I should know about sport climbing. -Pete
I like how you cover up your noobness by pointing out you are a "trad" climber. I mean c'mon, if you can trad climb and build anchors and shit this should be a walk in the park for you. Admit it, your using trad to cover up your noob climber factor. It's ok, you can admit it. It's not a big deal 
And since this is not the beginner forum, you are fair game  ....j/k
(This post was edited by time2clmb on Sep 19, 2008, 5:49 AM)
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coolcatpet4e
Sep 19, 2008, 5:53 AM
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To be honest I am a new to climbing all together, however I still lead 5.9 trad and yes I can "build anchors and shit," however I do not know the do's and dont's of sport climbing
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wildiris
Sep 19, 2008, 5:56 AM
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Use quicks to clip into any anchor. If there is no second climber it is ok to lower off these "anchors." Good luck and climb.
A
(This post was edited by wildiris on Sep 19, 2008, 5:59 AM)
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sungam
Sep 19, 2008, 10:55 AM
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coolcatpet4e wrote: Sorry for the following noobish questions, but I am a trad climber and I dont know about all of this sport stuff. However I am going to rumney soon and I am curious about a few things, mostly being quick clips. So upon research I have figured out what these are, however.... They are for lowering, right? Can one top rope from these? Should you clip quick draws to anything? Any other useful info would be great, or if there are any crazy things I should know about sport climbing. -Pete
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shockabuku
Sep 19, 2008, 11:11 AM
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If I was gonna toprope I would just put my own draw on the bolt hanger/chain/rapid link and leave the "quick clip" out of the situation until it's time to clean the route.
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rhythm164
Sep 19, 2008, 11:34 AM
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don't TR through the coldshuts (aka quickclips) at Rumney, it will be obvious why the first time you complete a route, esp. if it's anywhere near the parking lot. Slap a couple draws onto them, and extend the anchor. Contrary to popular belief, sport climbing is not some anomaly that 'trad climbers' cannot figure out. You should be fine, unless you start barking about how you can't do Romancing the Stone because you're a trad climber...
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j_ung
Sep 19, 2008, 1:00 PM
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sungam wrote: coolcatpet4e wrote: Sorry for the following noobish questions, but I am a trad climber and I dont know about all of this sport stuff. However I am going to rumney soon and I am curious about a few things, mostly being quick clips. So upon research I have figured out what these are, however.... They are for lowering, right? Can one top rope from these? Should you clip quick draws to anything? Any other useful info would be great, or if there are any crazy things I should know about sport climbing. -Pete Clip and lower from them, but don't top rope on them- if you've going to toprope extend them with a sling+screwgate (or two)
Without really knowing what Rumney's ethic is for lowering, that seems like the most logical way to go about it. That's what we do at the New.
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tomcat
Sep 19, 2008, 1:03 PM
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Rumney has ethics?
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epoch
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Sep 19, 2008, 1:26 PM
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coolcatpet4e wrote: To be honest I am a new to climbing all together, however I still lead 5.9 trad and yes I can "build anchors and shit," however I do not know the do's and dont's of sport climbing
Do:
- Spray - it shows everyone else that you are a badass.
- Employ hang-dog tactics - sport climing is safer than trad climbing. you get to push the grades with little to no recourse for hanging on "gear."
- Utilize the "French Free" technique - it's good enough for them, it's good enough for us.
- Bring your dog - everyone will get a kick out of 'ol fido.
- Bring your i-Pod and speakers - it's sport climbing; you are there to train. There's no reason not to listen to soothing death metal to help you focus on your French-free hangdog ascent.
- Set up as many ropes as possible - this will ensure route dominancy and allow you to get on those climbs without having to wait.
- Offer unsolicited beta - upon completion of a climb you are obligated to tell every subsequent climber on it how to do it. Move for move.
Don't:
- Bring a ham sammich - that's for trad climbing.
- Bring your trad gear - every concievable and climbable line is bolted.
- Forget your beanie - you'll climb 2 number grades or 4 letter grades lower.
- Forget your quick clip - you don't need your balls when you you are already clipped into the first piece of protection.
- Forget to use words like "Rad", "Allez", "Sick", and "Dude".
- Remove your gym belay card from your harness - you will need it to show the next guy that you went to class and are certified to belay.
- Forget to make grunting noises while you climb - it will impress the ladies and whill show your brute strength to your neighboring climbers.
Most of all, don't toprope through fixed hardware.
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joshy8200
Sep 19, 2008, 1:44 PM
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epoch wrote: coolcatpet4e wrote: To be honest I am a new to climbing all together, however I still lead 5.9 trad and yes I can "build anchors and shit," however I do not know the do's and dont's of sport climbing Do: - Spray - it shows everyone else that you are a badass.
- Employ hang-dog tactics - sport climing is safer than trad climbing. you get to push the grades with little to no recourse for hanging on "gear."
- Utilize the "French Free" technique - it's good enough for them, it's good enough for us.
- Bring your dog - everyone will get a kick out of 'ol fido.
- Bring your i-Pod and speakers - it's sport climbing; you are there to train. There's no reason not to listen to soothing death metal to help you focus on your French-free hangdog ascent.
- Set up as many ropes as possible - this will ensure route dominancy and allow you to get on those climbs without having to wait.
- Offer unsolicited beta - upon completion of a climb you are obligated to tell every subsequent climber on it how to do it. Move for move.
Don't: - Bring a ham sammich - that's for trad climbing.
- Bring your trad gear - every concievable and climbable line is bolted.
- Forget your beanie - you'll climb 2 number grades or 4 letter grades lower.
- Forget your quick clip - you don't need your balls when you you are already clipped into the first piece of protection.
- Forget to use words like "Rad", "Allez", "Sick", and "Dude".
- Remove your gym belay card from your harness - you will need it to show the next guy that you went to class and are certified to belay.
- Forget to make grunting noises while you climb - it will impress the ladies and whill show your brute strength to your neighboring climbers.
Most of all, don't toprope through fixed hardware.
Perfectly said.
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olderic
Sep 19, 2008, 2:13 PM
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There are several different types of hardware that fall into the quick clip category - Rumney has a few different types. Basically it's any anchor hardware that can be "clipped" into as oppossed to needing to thread the rope through. Could be biners or what's in the previous diagram. Eliminates the need to put draws in if you want a quick anchor. (also provides the possibility of cowboying the anchors from several feet lower - but we won't go there). However even at Rumney it is generally considered bad form to TR directly through them (hang your own draws) or even lower though them (rap instead) - there are always exceptions (and usually are at Rumney).
(This post was edited by olderic on Sep 19, 2008, 3:41 PM)
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coolcatpet4e
Sep 19, 2008, 3:29 PM
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That you very much all. It is very clear now.
-pete
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jakedatc
Sep 19, 2008, 4:37 PM
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Rumney has:
 
and something with an end that looks like this but bigger
Very simple. Lead, put 2 draws, everyone TR's, Last person clip or thread the anchor... lower or rap off
(I usually lower because i've usually led it also and need to downclean)
take a look at the message board in the big parking lot for what happens when you TR on quickclips
enjoy :) i'll be up next weekend
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bizarrodrinker
Sep 19, 2008, 6:25 PM
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jakedatc wrote: take a look at the message board in the big parking lot for what happens when you TR on quickclips
God kills a kitten doesn't he
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shockabuku
Sep 19, 2008, 6:28 PM
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bizarrodrinker wrote: jakedatc wrote: take a look at the message board in the big parking lot for what happens when you TR on quickclips God kills a kitten doesn't he
Well duh! Why do think there are no crag cats?
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alleyehave
Sep 19, 2008, 6:51 PM
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time2clmb wrote: I like how you cover up your noobness by pointing out you are a "trad" climber. I mean c'mon, if you can trad climb and build anchors and shit this should be a walk in the park for you. Admit it, your using trad to cover up your noob climber factor. It's ok, you can admit it. It's not a big deal And since this is not the beginner forum, you are fair game ....j/k
That post stands as the most recent injury to mankind's intelligence i've seen in a long time. Congratulations.
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sungam
Sep 19, 2008, 7:13 PM
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alleyehave wrote: time2clmb wrote: I like how you cover up your noobness by pointing out you are a "trad" climber. I mean c'mon, if you can trad climb and build anchors and shit this should be a walk in the park for you. Admit it, your using trad to cover up your noob climber factor. It's ok, you can admit it. It's not a big deal And since this is not the beginner forum, you are fair game ....j/k That post stands as the most recent injury to mankind's intelligence i've seen in a long time. Congratulations.
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alleyehave
Sep 19, 2008, 7:23 PM
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sungam wrote: alleyehave wrote: time2clmb wrote: I like how you cover up your noobness by pointing out you are a "trad" climber. I mean c'mon, if you can trad climb and build anchors and shit this should be a walk in the park for you. Admit it, your using trad to cover up your noob climber factor. It's ok, you can admit it. It's not a big deal And since this is not the beginner forum, you are fair game ....j/k That post stands as the most recent injury to mankind's intelligence i've seen in a long time. Congratulations. You're right. Time2climbs takes a close 2nd, though.
Confuzzled.
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time2clmb
Sep 19, 2008, 7:24 PM
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alleyehave wrote: time2clmb wrote: I like how you cover up your noobness by pointing out you are a "trad" climber. I mean c'mon, if you can trad climb and build anchors and shit this should be a walk in the park for you. Admit it, your using trad to cover up your noob climber factor. It's ok, you can admit it. It's not a big deal And since this is not the beginner forum, you are fair game ....j/k That post stands as the most recent injury to mankind's intelligence i've seen in a long time. Congratulations.
Yes, all forms of joking and poking fun at each other should be immediately banned. Ass.
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time2clmb
Sep 19, 2008, 7:25 PM
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alleyehave wrote: sungam wrote: alleyehave wrote: time2clmb wrote: I like how you cover up your noobness by pointing out you are a "trad" climber. I mean c'mon, if you can trad climb and build anchors and shit this should be a walk in the park for you. Admit it, your using trad to cover up your noob climber factor. It's ok, you can admit it. It's not a big deal And since this is not the beginner forum, you are fair game ....j/k That post stands as the most recent injury to mankind's intelligence i've seen in a long time. Congratulations. You're right. Time2climbs takes a close 2nd, though. Confuzzled.
THAT post stands as the most recent injury to mankind's intelligence i've seen in a long time. Congratulations.
LMAO. It's really not that hard to figure out.
(This post was edited by time2clmb on Sep 19, 2008, 7:26 PM)
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sungam
Sep 19, 2008, 7:29 PM
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time2clmb wrote: alleyehave wrote: sungam wrote: alleyehave wrote: time2clmb wrote: I like how you cover up your noobness by pointing out you are a "trad" climber. I mean c'mon, if you can trad climb and build anchors and shit this should be a walk in the park for you. Admit it, your using trad to cover up your noob climber factor. It's ok, you can admit it. It's not a big deal And since this is not the beginner forum, you are fair game ....j/k That post stands as the most recent injury to mankind's intelligence i've seen in a long time. Congratulations. You're right. Time2climbs takes a close 2nd, though. Confuzzled. THAT post stands as the most recent injury to mankind's intelligence i've seen in a long time. Congratulations. LMAO. It's really not that hard to figure out.
But whatever, the point is across.
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time2clmb
Sep 19, 2008, 7:32 PM
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Works either way.
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