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spencer11
Feb 8, 2012, 7:20 PM
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well still being new here i figured this would be the best place to post my questions about rumney sport climbing. how many routes at rumney have quick draws on the wall already? if anyone has any good beginner routes with or without quick draws on the wall already, please share. how many draws should i get? thanks
spencer
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Gmburns2000
Feb 8, 2012, 8:09 PM
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spencer11 wrote: well still being new here i figured this would be the best place to post my questions about rumney sport climbing. how many routes at rumney have quick draws on the wall already? if anyone has any good beginner routes with or without quick draws on the wall already, please share. how many draws should i get? thanks spencer
I'm pretty sure none of the routes have draws on them already. You can probably get away with 10-12 draws, though most routes will be well below that.
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smallclimber
Feb 8, 2012, 8:36 PM
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Several of the harder, very overhanging climbs do have draws on them, for example at Waimea - however these are not beginner routes, mostly 5.11 up. None of the "beginner" routes have draws on them that I know of. However Rumney is a good place for beginner sport climbers as there are a lot of low grade climbs, they are well bolted and they are bolted for the low grade leader (for example a 5.6 is bolted for a 5.6 leader). So its worth you investing in some draws to go there, quickdraws are not too expensive. I'd get at least 12 - as I said the climbs are well bolted, so you go through the draws. Also if you plan to toprope any routes, you should not top rope through the quick links (and when you see how worn some of them are you won't want to anyway) so you'll need a couple of draws for the top as well. Make sure you know how to clean the draws at the top safely. Good luck.
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spencer11
Feb 8, 2012, 9:13 PM
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So 10-12 draws. Now a question on TR. do you have to lead climb it or can you just hike up the back side and put your rope through the draws at the top? I figure the first one makes more sence and seems alot safer. Thanks guys.
Spencer
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jakedatc
Feb 8, 2012, 9:21 PM
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spencer11 wrote: So 10-12 draws. Now a question on TR. do you have to lead climb it or can you just hike up the back side and put your rope through the draws at the top? I figure the first one makes more sence and seems alot safer. Thanks guys. Spencer
Lead up and put the rope through your own draws. not the fixed gear.
you should really find someone to take you out because these things should be known.
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spencer11
Feb 8, 2012, 10:59 PM
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Okay that's what I figured. And I do plan on doing more gym climbing.(I know it's not even close to the same) but it will get me more experience climbing. And I might get a guide or someone who knows more to come with me to. Thanks guys, awesome site.
Spencer
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 10, 2012, 3:11 PM
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spencer11 wrote: well still being new here i figured this would be the best place to post my questions about rumney sport climbing. how many routes at rumney have quick draws on the wall already?
Most routes do not have draws on them. The only routes that do start at 5.12 and up, and not even all of them do.
In reply to: If anyone has any good beginner routes with or without quick draws on the wall already, please share. how many draws should i get? thanks
spencer
There are NO begginer routes with preplaced draws. Like someone said, 10-12 should be fine for most of the routes. Get the guidebook :
It is very well done and will tell you how many draws you need for each route.
As far as toproping, someone should be able to lead as all of the anchors are set up with that in mind. Generally speaking there are no trails that accomodate easy toprope setup and a large percentage (if not all) of the anchors are on cliff faces not on the top, making any hope to set up a toprope involve a scramble through thick woods and going over the edge to reach an anchor. It's much safer to lead it.
Rumney lends itself to a good place for beginners to go, but at the minimum, someone in your group should be able to do the following:
1. Choose appropriate climbs for you group and lead them safely.
2. Set up a toprope for other group members off a 2 bolt anchor using personal gear (2 quickdraws, cordellete, etc.) Do not toprope through drop-ins.
3. Safely clean toprope set up when finished with the climb.
4. Keep the rest of your group members from endangering themselves or anyone else at the crag.
Have fun!
Btw, a good place to start is The Parking Lot Wall or The Meadows.
Josh
(This post was edited by blueeyedclimber on Feb 10, 2012, 7:52 PM)
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spencer11
Feb 10, 2012, 7:47 PM
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I was looking at the map for rumney, and it seems like avgreat place to start. What does it mean when a wall is sport/ trad? The parking lot wall is says is a sport.
Spencer
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 10, 2012, 7:57 PM
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spencer11 wrote: I was looking at the map for rumney, and it seems like avgreat place to start. What does it mean when a wall is sport/ trad? The parking lot wall is says is a sport. Spencer
Trad in it's simplest definition means that you place your own gear to protect yourself. Sport implies all preplaced bolts. Generally speaking, at Rumney, most of the climbs are bolt protected. If you have an older version of the guidebook some of the climbs were originally trad or a mix of gear and bolts but have since been retrobolted (meaning they are now entirely protected by bolts). The new guidebook has updated those routes. Don't quote me on this but I would venture to guess that all the climbs are now either entirely bolted or have been left as entirely trad.
Josh
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spencer11
Feb 10, 2012, 8:56 PM
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thanks josh. i have been looking at quick draws to. is it best to get a new pack of them- 5 or so, around $55-$60. or buy them individaly for around $11 each? these are wire gate caribiners there are some used one on ebay for a little cheaper with bend gate caribiners. should i just get new ones to be safe? thanks
spencer
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spencer11
Feb 11, 2012, 4:24 AM
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i think im gonna go with the backcountry ones. i am on a fairly tight budget and was only looking to sprend around $100 for 10-12 draws.being only 14 i dont have a great income all the time. but can afford decent gear. thanks guys. awesome site!
spencer
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