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mreardon
Apr 8, 2003, 4:00 PM
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Things have been going good in terms of injuries and such (knock on wood) and I've been digging in the old Joshua Tree Guidebook looking for the next project. Besides "Equinox" (12c/d) and "Leave it to Beaver" (12a), what other cracks at Joshua Tree in the 12a-12c range would anyone here recommend? And is there a 13a crack in the Monument?
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rockprodigy
Apr 8, 2003, 4:25 PM
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Leave it to Beaver is not a crack climb. It's an overhanging face climbing protected with gear. Equinox is the most beautiful crack I have ever done, so definitely check that out. I haven't tried any other 12 cracks there, but I have heard Waltzing Worm (12a) is good. I've looked at it (right before it start snowing) and it looks short with a distinct crux...probably an easy tick. Otherwise Bloodline (12a) looks good and there's a 12b over in the North Wonderland that looked good...the name escapes me right now, but it's a 50' splitter tips crack. Have fun!
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freezerfrost
Apr 8, 2003, 4:42 PM
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five crying coyboys
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rockprodigy
Apr 8, 2003, 4:48 PM
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yeah that's it. thanks dude
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murf
Apr 8, 2003, 4:51 PM
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Mike,
Try asking on www.climbingjtree.com, probably a good chance of a good answer over there.
Murf
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bvb
Apr 8, 2003, 5:29 PM
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mike, "simple simon" is one of the best crack climbs in the monument. don't be fooled by whatever absurd rating they give it in the guidebook 11c i think) not only is it top quality, it's 12aor b, no question. One of my favorite climbs in Josh.
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curt
Apr 8, 2003, 5:47 PM
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Mike,
I know that you are already aware of "Vector" but I wanted to mention it anyway. I think is is one of the best things of its grade in the Park. I didn't think "Five Crying Cowboys" was all that great, inspite of the nice photo of it that appeared (I think) in Climbing mag.
As per bvb, Simple Simon is great. Also, to the left of Hyperion Arch (which itself is a great climb) there is "Transfusion" 5.12a, which is really good.
I also really liked "Marathon Crack" 5.12a, down in the Virgin Isles area off geology tour road.
Curt
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alpnclmbr1
Apr 8, 2003, 6:34 PM
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Hey Michael
Bloodline is next best looking line after Equinox 120ft diagonal fingers (if your up there check out black diamond stellar 12b R face)
Waltzing worm (short and thin gimme)
Hidden arch 11d (cool fingers)
Zombie Woof (12b) short roof crack
Stingray (13d?) tips (suzuki and mike paul)
Gunfighter is supposed to have a 12 crack pitch, two 12 face pitches to get to it
Brown out 12d (kauk) not sure if it is a tr or a lead. Use to be A3
There is a 13 (suziki) on biblical fallacies (mixed?)
Asteroid crack(12d) tips splitter (face crux?)
Acid crack 12d (like the beaver facey with gear)
Never bought the new guidebook so there may be more
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fredbob
Apr 8, 2003, 7:25 PM
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Bloodline is well worth checking out, funky face to get to crack (thin to 1" to 1 1/2"). Probably has had only a handful of ascents.
Black Diamond is 12a and definately not R (7 bolts).
Hidden arch 11d is classic, but more stemming than fingers
Asteroid crack is very short.
Acid crack 12d is a crack and not really like the Beaver at all; fingers to tips to (crux) layback/highstep off offset side of crack. Really hard to hang on and place gear.
Book Of Brilliant Things 12d thin crack in dihedral.
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phoenix
Apr 8, 2003, 8:05 PM
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Equinox is definitely one of my favorite fingers cracks. I only looked at Acid crack; it looked freakin sick. Someone told me that Suzuki hiked it onsight. Perhaps you should try this 12.b roof which is situated on the way to the Astro Domes...from Willies approach. I forget the name...something like 'It doesn't mean a thing if it aint got that swing'.
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alpnclmbr1
Apr 8, 2003, 8:51 PM
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what can I say, memory can be a funny thing
black diamond hadn't been bolted yet when I was on it.
to me acid crack climbed more like a sport climb, but then I wouldn't try to lead it.
one more route to consider is When your a jet, funky scary to get on it but then it's killer. Most people TR it but I have always wanted to lead it. you can do the crux with a figure four.
As it it starting to get hot consider getting on the Pirate at Suicide
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pbjosh
Apr 8, 2003, 9:24 PM
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Not that I have a lot of business in this discussion but It Don't Mean A Thing If It Don't Got That Swing (12b, dunno if it's TR or lead) on Fire Me a Burger Rock I think, anyways on your left hiking from Uncle Willies to N Wonderland Wash, looks awesome.
josh
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mreardon
Apr 8, 2003, 10:19 PM
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I didn't want to spray, but I did "Waltzing Worm" two weeks ago and it was definitely an easy tick in terms of ratings, but it had it's share of pump. Made me fly about 10 feet on a blue alien the first go on it when I botched beta. Got it clean while placing the gear the next go. I've done "Chameleon" (12b) but the face is the hardest part, the crack was 10+ and on-site. Already know about "Beaver" (no desire to do it) and "Equinox" (worked out the moves, now have to find the time/fitness and get it) which is why I'm curious about the other potentials.
Saw "Bloodline" in the old Vogel guide but also saw the hike to get there. Looks like a 2 hour hike. Anyone actually been on that one? "Five Crying Cowboys" looks great! Thanks for that one. Also thanks for the info on "Simple Simon" and of course "Vector". 5.11 maybe, but they both sound great. I was supposed to get on "Vector" many moons ago but my partner at the time was one of those bubbleheads who has to yell and scream at the belayer when they screw up, so I had enough after a weekend of this when he was on "Vector" and hollaring about how his dogging was my fault, so I tied him in place and went and had lunch. When I came back an hour later he was much calmer. Of course we didn't climb much more that day....
Anyrate, "Vector" is on the list. "Simple Simon" also sounds great! Don't know anything about "Transfusion" or "Acid Crack" but both sounds decent (particularly "Acid Crack"). "Gunfighter" is full of guano and I have no desire for that nonsense. Thanks again!
By the way, as for the "Pirate" at Suicide, I'm already on it. I did the 12a (my azz!) next to it (mostly face) and worked the beta on "Pirate" on toprope but the season ended before I had a chance to go for it. Wish me luck this year!
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studs
Nov 19, 2003, 4:21 AM
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Emotional Rescue .12 ,The Living Conjunction.12 , The Persian Room.13
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bvb
Nov 19, 2003, 4:31 AM
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yeah, and "the persion room" is a great place to take your girlfriend...lush, shady, sandy, secluded. bring a large bouldering mat for full value.
"hercules" is 11c, (ha ha ha) but it's harder that a lot of .12a's in the monument. it's got top quality going for it, and it gets you out by "yabaho", one of the better boulder problems in that part of the monument.
i'm assuming you've led spider line? harder than any of the .12a or b cracks i've done in the valley. pumpiest short crack route in california.
"the flying dutchman" is overhanging tips jams, and possibly the most under-appreciated 5.12 in josh. studs and i both flashed it in a snowstorm in 1988. get busy, reardon. do us proud.
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rmiller
Nov 19, 2003, 5:45 AM
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I know of a few good 12- hand/thin hand cracks for you punk. In fact, I know quite a few 11's for you to try. However, you have to leave that choss pile called J-Tree to get the experience necessary to send. When are you going to venture out and have a true crack experience? You know what I am talking about.
Ronnie
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mreardon
Nov 19, 2003, 6:51 PM
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In reply to: I know of a few good 12- hand/thin hand cracks for you punk. In fact, I know quite a few 11's for you to try. However, you have to leave that choss pile called J-Tree to get the experience necessary to send. When are you going to venture out and have a true crack experience? You know what I am talking about. Ronnie
Last time, I had to slap those sissy pink tights off you (though the lacy black underwear was a plus) and get you on some real climbs in the Needles, until you used the whole - "does this rope make me look fat" line on me. Guess I'll have to road trip finally now that you moved away and smack your pathetic butt again....
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bvb
Nov 19, 2003, 7:52 PM
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stop it, you two. yer gettin' my glasses all steamy.
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rmiller
Nov 20, 2003, 4:22 AM
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Hmm, I kind of remember that you were the one that did not onsight Atlantis.
Now don't give me the my onsighting sucks, I got in late, I drank too much, and you treated me like a French horror last night excuses. They don't work anymore. Now, you can use the spanking excuse because I sure did like it.
By the way, does my pink nighty make me look fat?
Ronnie
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mreardon
Nov 20, 2003, 10:37 PM
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In reply to: Hmm, I kind of remember that you were the one that did not onsight Atlantis. Now don't give me the my onsighting sucks, I got in late, I drank too much, and you treated me like a French horror last night excuses. They don't work anymore. Now, you can use the spanking excuse because I sure did like it. By the way, does my pink nighty make me look fat? Ronnie
The nighty looks good, crumpled on the floor. And I got Atlantis. I cried repeatedly for "mom", but I got up it. Those shiny things come in handy to step on. Next up, aiding Igor Unchained. Nothing like a few pin scars to widen those cracks....
Wish you were still in town brother, Josh all next week and it looks like I might send a couple projects that called both of us. Give you the full details after Turkey day.
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roadguy
Nov 20, 2003, 10:47 PM
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I'm not sure if I remember the grades correctly but I think Money for Nothing and its sister route Chicks for Free are close to the grade your looking for.
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