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catbird_seat
May 14, 2008, 6:11 AM
Post #26 of 36
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Registered: Apr 7, 2004
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I recently moved to California from Washington and started climbing a lot at Joshua Tree. What I've found is that hexes are next to useless, at least the BD hexes, the curved hexes might work better.
I have one offset Wildcountry Friend, 1.5/2 that I seldom used in Washington, but use all the time in Joshua Tree. I have one #2 Trango Maxcam that I seldom used before but use all the time in JTree's flaring cracks.
I'd like to get some smaller offset cams, but not Aliens. I love my old set but don't trust anything put out by CCH now. I might consider one of the offset TCU's but I really would prefer an offset four cam unit. There's not much to choose from, I am afraid.
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climb_eng
May 14, 2008, 6:45 AM
Post #27 of 36
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This is an old post, but I'll throw it out there.
As others have said, doubles in 0.75 - 3 C4 for the big size, doubles inlMetolius Mastercams from Red down to Blue. I've been using them and they're AWESOME! They are very useful in Joshua Tree.
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catbird_seat
May 24, 2008, 5:23 AM
Post #28 of 36
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What is it about Master Cams that makes them particularly suited to Joshua Tree? Same reason Aliens are good?
I think I know the answer. Many times you have a flaring crack that has very small, shallow places at the bottom where the sides approach parallel. A narrow cam can take advantage of these where a wider one would not.
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alleyehave
Sep 13, 2008, 11:15 PM
Post #29 of 36
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catbird_seat wrote: I think I know the answer. Many times you have a flaring crack that has very small, shallow places at the bottom where the sides approach parallel. A narrow cam can take advantage of these where a wider one would not.
Yes, you do know the answer. I never seem to do a climb there without atleast one or both of my yellow mastercams gone. I've also noticed im always using a yellow or blue piece for an anchor it seems.
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desertdude420
Sep 14, 2008, 3:07 AM
Post #30 of 36
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richardvg03 wrote: I'm investing in my rack and I was wondering what gear I need for Jtree... What cams do I need doubles of??? and so on?
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Maddhatter
Sep 14, 2008, 2:53 PM
Post #31 of 36
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I set A LOT of stoppers in J-Tree but that might just be me I own 3 sets plus off widths. I did find I needed to buy more really small cams for J-Tree just for old pin scars. I used every cam I have at some point but Then I used every hex I have also. I standard set of cams and a set of stoppers will get you up most climbs.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Sep 15, 2008, 5:06 PM
Post #32 of 36
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desertdude420 wrote: richardvg03 wrote: I'm investing in my rack and I was wondering what gear I need for Jtree... What cams do I need doubles of??? and so on? Bring an oven mitt for the hand jams! The rock is like a cheese grater!
I would just recommend learning how to jam.
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jt512
Sep 15, 2008, 5:42 PM
Post #33 of 36
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richardvg03 wrote: I'm investing in my rack and I was wondering what gear I need for Jtree... What cams do I need doubles of??? and so on?
I think Trenchdigger's beta is right on.
Unless your nutcraft is well developed, you really need a double set of cams for J Tree. It's not that you're going to place your whole rack on any particular route, but that on almost every route you'll want to have doubles in some size. Perhaps it is the type of routes I am attracted to, but it seems like I've placed two .5s and/or two .75s on every route I've done there. So my advice is doubles from everything from the blue Alien up to a #3 Camalot, plus a single 3.5, and a 4. If you've got that then you can get away with a single set of nuts. For some routes you'll want triples in selected sizes, or a #5, but hopefully your partner can help you out there.
Jay
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sungam
Sep 15, 2008, 6:49 PM
Post #34 of 36
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: desertdude420 wrote: richardvg03 wrote: I'm investing in my rack and I was wondering what gear I need for Jtree... What cams do I need doubles of??? and so on? Bring an oven mitt for the hand jams! The rock is like a cheese grater! I would just recommend learning how to jam.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Sep 15, 2008, 7:53 PM
Post #35 of 36
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sungam wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: desertdude420 wrote: richardvg03 wrote: I'm investing in my rack and I was wondering what gear I need for Jtree... What cams do I need doubles of??? and so on? Bring an oven mitt for the hand jams! The rock is like a cheese grater! I would just recommend learning how to jam. TP is for pussies, right?
Precisely. So are people who wash before eating.
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cracklover
Sep 15, 2008, 8:05 PM
Post #36 of 36
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Hey Jay, I think you kinda said that last time - five months ago, before the thread died and was resurrected!
Just the same, I'm going to offer a counterpoint to Jay's suggestion. He's climbed there far more than I, beyond a doubt. But I've spent several weeks there, so my experience there may be relevent to some.
I've climbed at JTree with a much thinner rack than what's being suggested. The following rack never felt thin, and didn't keep me off anything I wanted to do.
-a single set of cams from micro to BD #4,
-one set of nuts,
-1/2 set of hexes in the large sizes.
Full disclosure - I:
-didn't climb anything harder than 8+, and
-was extremely solid at placing passive gear (nuts and hexes) efficiently.
As always, ymmv.
Cheers,
GO
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