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maclimbing
Aug 21, 2005, 2:17 PM
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Is it possible to lead trad routes roped solo with a modified grigri? How does this work?
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flamer
Aug 21, 2005, 3:43 PM
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In reply to: Is it possible to lead trad routes roped solo with a modified grigri? How does this work?
Answer to qeustion #1, yes Answer #2 look through the many related threads.
My opimion? Get a Silent partner especially for trad/free climbing.
josh
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phlsphr
Aug 21, 2005, 3:58 PM
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In reply to: Is it possible to lead trad routes roped solo with a modified grigri? How does this work?
It's possible with an unmodified grigri. The rope is tied in to an anchor, proceeds up through your pro, and then through the grigri. The grigri is threaded as though the anchor is the climber.
You'll find it to be a major pain in the butt. You must pull out in advance the slack necessary to make it to your next rest.
As has been said, there has already been lots of discussion of this. See the links below.
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sspssp
Aug 21, 2005, 4:24 PM
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If you aren't willing to use the Silent Parnter, I suggest you consider using the Cinch over the Grigri. There have been threads on this also.
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healyje
Aug 30, 2005, 5:10 AM
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In reply to: If you aren't willing to use the Silent Parnter, I suggest you consider using the Cinch over the Grigri. There have been threads on this also.
Please don't rope solo with a Cinch. Malcolm has already posted here that he doesn't want folks using it that way. A modified or unmodified grigri works fine.
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jaybird2
Aug 30, 2005, 6:16 PM
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Hell hath no fury like a leader's scorn for pulling rope up when soloing with a gri-gri. It gets easier the longer the pitch. Eventually the weight of the rope is enough to help ease the rope through the gri-gri. If there were a bunch of tenuous moves though in a row, it would Suuuhhhhhhhck! It was better than not climbing at all though. Having to battle the rope adds a WHOLE different element. Get the silent partner if you plan to make a habit out of it.
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glyrocks
Aug 30, 2005, 7:11 PM
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It's even better on a traverse... but it still works. Sort of.
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centralcoast
Aug 25, 2013, 6:29 PM
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AN38LK0yKnQ
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potreroed
Aug 25, 2013, 7:44 PM
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It's possible but a dangerous pain in the ass. Get a Soloist or a Silent Partner.
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meanandugly
Aug 26, 2013, 12:24 PM
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Soloist, love it.
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healyje
Aug 26, 2013, 8:53 PM
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I used both unmodded and modded grigris for free, lead roped-soloing for a bunch of years between just using knots and using an Eddy. It is a pain and onerous to use at times, but I didn't find it particularly 'dangerous' per se.
I prefer it to a Soloist or SP, but that's just me as I don't like having anything on my chest and don't care for the 'brickness' of the SP.
Also note the Soloist doesn't necessarily hold when your body orientation in a fall is parallel with the ground (as a partner of mine discovered the hard way).
(This post was edited by healyje on Aug 26, 2013, 8:55 PM)
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potreroed
Aug 27, 2013, 6:13 PM
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healyje wrote: Also note the Soloist doesn't necessarily hold when your body orientation in a fall is parallel with the ground ( as a partner of mine discovered the hard way).
That's why back-up knots are a must.
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healyje
Aug 29, 2013, 2:24 AM
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potreroed wrote: healyje wrote: Also note the Soloist doesn't necessarily hold when your body orientation in a fall is parallel with the ground ( as a partner of mine discovered the hard way). That's why back-up knots are a must.
He also discovered hard routes with off-the-ground cruxs are sub-optimal for rope-soloing if the crux is so low that the slack out and rope stretch mean the backup knot never kicks in.
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