I'm all about on-sighting, it's such a pure form of climbing. Sometimes I don't even know the grade of the climbs I'm on. I was at Echo Cliffs in LA and I hoped on this one line not knowing the difficulty. It looked pretty and I fell on the last move, turns out at the time it would have been my hardest onsight ever(5.10), since I was mainly climbing 5.10+ in the gym and 5.9ish outside.
I've got 4 chalk bags right now. A boulder bucket, a trad bad(pocket with headlamp in it), a bag in my backyard for the hangboard/rock rings, and of course my on-sight/flash chalk bag(candy apple red with bright yellow lightning bolts)
Its a mix for me. When I do onsite something, then I'm usually pretty happy about it (can't think of why I wouldn't be), but hanging or falling on a route doesn't affect me, except that I think about the route afterward and want to go back to get it clean later. But I don't consider it a failure to not onsite.
Also, I don't mind beta either. If someone has useful information for me, then that's fine, too. I usually welcome the help. For me, the fear exists regardless of whether or not I know what I'm getting into. In fact, with beta, I'm much more likely to try the moves than to back off and figure things out instead. I know that sounds contradictory, but it isn't. Making the moves regardless of beta can still be frightful. Making the moves based on beta is less about fear and more about trusting the information.
I'm all about on-sighting, it's such a pure form of climbing. Sometimes I don't even know the grade of the climbs I'm on. I was at Echo Cliffs in LA and I hoped on this one line not knowing the difficulty. It looked pretty and I fell on the last move, turns out at the time it would have been my hardest onsight ever(5.10), since I was mainly climbing 5.10+ in the gym and 5.9ish outside.
You gotta love when you sandbag yourself and still onsight. It really stretches your perception of what you can really do.
I remember looking to climb a route called Birdland at the Gunks, and ended up on a different route called Birdcage. I kept thinking the whole time how freaking hard 5.9 at the Gunks is. A small crowd gathered and I got the onsight. On my way down I kept saying how rough that was. My partner then informed me that it was a 10b.
I was all set to battle hard on a 9 and ended up onsighting a 10b. It was a good day.
(This post was edited by nthusiastj on Nov 26, 2008, 4:03 PM)
Also, I don't mind beta either. If someone has useful information for me, then that's fine, too. I usually welcome the help.
Personally I'd rather not have the beta. Its not a philosophical thing really, I just like to solve the puzzle.
One guy I climb with now and again gets all worked up if he has trouble on the crux and I didn't see fit to hollar the beta down to him. In his mind climbing is a team sport and I'm supposed to help him out in any way I can. I get a good laugh out of it and rarely do give up any beta, its too much fun watching him get all pissed off.
Not sure about the movie, though. There's something about that clip Chossy posted (I just watched the last one) where the dude was like "ooo I'm scared... fockin' ''ell I'm sooooooo scared" that made me immediately not want to watch it.
I have a lot of fun redpointing and projecting, but I also really love walking a cliffline and climbing what catches my eye. No beta, no grades, not even route names. Sometimes, expectations just really get in the way of everything.
Not sure about the movie, though. There's something about that clip Chossy posted (I just watched the last one) where the dude was like "ooo I'm scared... fockin' ''ell I'm sooooooo scared" that made me immediately not want to watch it.
Sharp End is great, though.
Maybe its just me but I rather enjoy watch grown adults talk themselves into doing really stupid things with potentially epic consequences.
Not sure about the movie, though. There's something about that clip Chossy posted (I just watched the last one) where the dude was like "ooo I'm scared... fockin' ''ell I'm sooooooo scared" that made me immediately not want to watch it.
Sharp End is great, though.
Maybe its just me but I rather enjoy watch grown adults talk themselves into doing really stupid things with potentially epic consequences.
Not sure about the movie, though. There's something about that clip Chossy posted (I just watched the last one) where the dude was like "ooo I'm scared... fockin' ''ell I'm sooooooo scared" that made me immediately not want to watch it.
Sharp End is great, though.
Maybe its just me but I rather enjoy watch grown adults talk themselves into doing really stupid things with potentially epic consequences.
It's always entertaining to watch...
They end up lowering him a rope and he bails on it.
Not sure about the movie, though. There's something about that clip Chossy posted (I just watched the last one) where the dude was like "ooo I'm scared... fockin' ''ell I'm sooooooo scared" that made me immediately not want to watch it.
Sharp End is great, though.
Maybe its just me but I rather enjoy watch grown adults talk themselves into doing really stupid things with potentially epic consequences.
It's always entertaining to watch...
They end up lowering him a rope and he bails on it.
:/
Eh, not the most fun to watch but I've been in that boat before.
Looks like another good film that I won't pay $30 for.
I probably haven't redpointed as high of a grade as I could because I just enjoy onsighting. I would rather go to a new place and try to onsight 6 or 7 .10's and .11's than try a classic .12 6 or 7 times.
Funny...25 years ago, I strayed the same direction on my first attempt at Birdland. However, a passerby noted my mistake while I hovered under the roof, trying to figure out how to this was gonna be 5.9-. Once I knew Birdland was to my right, I opted to traverse over to it - which turned out to be mega-hard and very poorly protected. Sideways-stuffed 0 RPs, as I recall. Anyway, I have no problem nowadays using beta, rehearsing, whatever; but I've got to say onsight sends are more satisfying. Even more so: onsight FAs. It's a sort of ultimate independent accomplishment to set out on a line with no beta - no name, grade, or description, everything up to you and your ability to measure your own ability against the situation- and work the problems out successfully to the top.
Well, of course, who doesn't love getting an on-sight!!
But for me right now, I'm trying to conquer me fear of falling. I've only taken one lead fall EVER and it was a 40 ft. fall down granite slab resulting in not only scrapping up every inch of exposed skin, but also a really badly broken ankle. I don't lead run-out slab anymore. And I'm leading again, but I'm much more cautions and I'm probably not pushing myself enough because I'm so afraid to fall. So right now, I would consider it a success to either get the on-sight or take a fall instead of having my belayer take and hanging on gear. I don't do that all *that* much, but at this point in my climbing career, I am very confident in my gear placements and I never run it out too much, so I think I should be at the point where I can mentally push myself for the on-sight and take the fall if that's what happens!! And honestly, I'd almost be happier with myself if I fell. I think taking a good safe fall would do me a world of good as far as my lead head goes.
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