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detourdave
Jun 21, 2002, 9:18 PM
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I was climbing at Moores Wall NC with a friend of mine. He was leading and kept falling just below the crux of the route (Quaker State). Every other time he fell he put in another piece of gear to protect the crux. On one of these falls something happened that I have only seen once before, the sheath of the rope broke and peeled up along the core about 2 feet . Needless to say, we were a little freaked out, especially when it was the carabineer that caused this. Here is how it happened; he had about 4 pieces protecting the crux and several of the pieces were clipped to the same biner weighting it from multiple directions (mistake) although mostly from the top. When he fell, the rope ran along the joint between the gate and the biner instead of settling in to one end of the biner. That joint on most biners is a notch which is machined with very sharp edges and that was enough to actually cut the rope on a small fall, maybe 6 feet. If the wall was longer, it may have started to cut into the core also. Now I only use wire gates on the rope end of my runners and I only clip the non-wires to the gear.
Has anyone ever heard of this happening before and should I spread the word, or is it a freak occurrence from setting up a multi-directional anchor poorly?
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hunter
Jun 21, 2002, 9:38 PM
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Sounds like you already know the answer.
Giving us a real life example of the bad things that can happen when biners are asked to handle things they weren't designed to is always helpful.
Thanks.
Hunter
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stevematthys
Jun 22, 2002, 12:09 AM
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what type of condition was the rope in before this?
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detourdave
Jun 24, 2002, 3:39 PM
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The rope was in great shape.
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hunter
Jun 24, 2002, 3:57 PM
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So if I'm understanding the situation the leader took 8 falls (aprox) on the same section of rope on a (probably) crossloaded biner.
Perhaps the biner in use had some edges that were sharp enough to damage the rope after repeated falls on the same section of rope in it's crossloaded position. I'd be glad the biner held during this abuse.
At the most the biner could be classified as a contributing cause, but not the primary.
No offense intended. I do stupid stuff ALL all time Then I have nightmares about what could have happened and try to learn from it.
Hunter
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punk
Jun 24, 2002, 4:15 PM
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What kind of biner was it if on of the new featherweight biners I can see that happening since the rope radius on them is rather thin… I was wondering if the all the factors are in was it any sharp edge around?… was the rope ever wet and didn’t dry out completely in ventilated and lit area or was it dirty…too many questions…
Climb safe
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rickoldskool
Jun 24, 2002, 5:20 PM
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Dave, next time post your topic in just ONE forum. Trad and beginners? You clutter the site more than it alredy is.
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detourdave
Jun 24, 2002, 6:36 PM
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Yeah, I know I double posted - I posted this in beginner and then tried to move it to trad and couldn't figure out how to do that. Sorry about the clutter but now I know what I am doing.
It was an REI brand biner, the ones with the gold gate. A "D" with a straight gate. The biner and the rope were in great condition - the rope was cut on a regular manufactured feature of the biner, the joint between the gate and the D.
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mreardon
Jun 26, 2002, 7:05 PM
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You answered your own question. Basicaly it sounds like the biner was just one factor in everything that went wrong. Relearn setting an anchor, and make sure you don't repeat the process in the future. And thank you for reminding us about our own mistakes we make on a regular basis.
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