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climberslacker
Jan 8, 2009, 2:59 AM
Post #1 of 28
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Hey all!
Im new to trad (been toproping since i was 6)
So far my rack is:
12 quickdraws
BD hexicentrics set
Camalots C3 #2
Camalot 1,2,3,5
nut tool
any suggestions would help... I climb josh mostly, but also mission gorge
THANKS!!!!
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suilenroc
Jan 8, 2009, 3:05 AM
Post #2 of 28
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I haven't climbed at either of those places. So by responding i'm a little out of place but... I'd recommend a set of stoppers to anyone, anywhere that is plugg'in gear!
ADD: Get yourself a few Batman Hip Belt Gadgets too.
(This post was edited by suilenroc on Jan 8, 2009, 3:06 AM)
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tysonl33cobb
Jan 8, 2009, 3:06 AM
Post #3 of 28
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What are your intentions? Do you want us to recommend gear for you?
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climberslacker
Jan 8, 2009, 3:27 AM
Post #4 of 28
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ya tysonl i just would like some suggrstions on what other peices i needed for a well rounded beginers rack.
what do you mean by batman hip belt gadgets??
THanks!
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climbinginchico
Jan 8, 2009, 3:32 AM
Post #5 of 28
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
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Get a set of stoppers. I prefer Tom Frost's Sentinel stoppers, but BD are also good. I have both and never use the BD anymore. I also have HB offsets and found them to be useful in Josh. You might be interested in the DMM offsets.
As far as cams, I love the C4 and C3 but also have many others. Size wise I would get .5, .75, maybe a .4 but I prefer aliens at orange/red sizing and below, but the C3 is a great cam as well. You might try out the OP link cams, they are pretty versatile. If you have friends with different gear, I would try out theirs and see what you like. Oh, and you could get a 4 just to fill in that hole in he rack.
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i_h8_choss
Jan 8, 2009, 3:42 AM
Post #6 of 28
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get some stoppers or nuts and if youre going to climb mostly at Josh.....why not buy a guidebook, pic 2 - 4 dozen routes you want to lead, then buy your gear according to those routes. and do you like hand jams or thin cracks better?? i know at josh you have to build a lot of your own anchors. do you have some long slings or webbing??
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climbinginchico
Jan 8, 2009, 4:06 AM
Post #7 of 28
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Oh and get some slings for trad draws. You can cannibalize your sport draws for biners if need be but make sure there are no burrs to snag nylon. And don't forget the racking biners.
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climberslacker
Jan 8, 2009, 4:13 AM
Post #8 of 28
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what size slings for trad draws? 12"? or what?
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climbinginchico
Jan 8, 2009, 4:18 AM
Post #9 of 28
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I use 24" and 48" slings. You'll also want to get some cordalette material for anchoring. I have a huge wild country sling I love. Triple up the 24" slings for trad draws and triple them a second time for the longer ones. I like mammut slings but if you climb mostly in josh they can get torn up faster. You might have longer luck with the 10mm BD or WC slings. The BD slings have the same bulk as the mammut but don't have the snazzy bartack design. Ymmv
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climberslacker
Jan 8, 2009, 4:25 AM
Post #10 of 28
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sorry fro bieng a complete n00b but im new to trad... so there is more then one sling between the biners for the draws??
thanks so much everyone it is really helpful
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climbinginchico
Jan 8, 2009, 4:34 AM
Post #11 of 28
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No, a trad draw is one sling with two biners. To triple it, pass onecarabiner through the other and then clip a pair of strands. Viola, a 24" sling turned into an 8" sling. To extend, unclip one biner and reclip it to one strand and tug- 24" at your service. If you want photos do a search, I'm on my iPhone and stuff like that sucks on this thing. You should be able to find it by searching "trad draw". Enjoy and stay safe.
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acorneau
Jan 8, 2009, 3:57 PM
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granite_grrl
Jan 8, 2009, 4:07 PM
Post #13 of 28
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I would get:
1) a set of nuts
2) an experianced partner to climb with with their own rack
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Tree_wrangler
Jan 8, 2009, 4:38 PM
Post #14 of 28
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In reply to: 2) an experianced partner to climb with with their own rack
Seconded.
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climberslacker
Jan 8, 2009, 8:49 PM
Post #15 of 28
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So far i need to add:
trad draws (made out of slings)
nut set
an expirienced climber
how do you feel about tricams for someone who is a trad n00b?
again thanks for the help!
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i_h8_choss
Jan 8, 2009, 9:01 PM
Post #16 of 28
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i wouldnt go there (tricams) just yet. just practice a ton on your cam and nut placements.
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Gmburns2000
Jan 8, 2009, 9:28 PM
Post #17 of 28
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Tree_wrangler wrote: In reply to: 2) an experianced partner to climb with with their own rack .
By definition, yes.
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fxgranite
Jan 8, 2009, 10:43 PM
Post #18 of 28
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climberslacker wrote: what do you mean by batman hip belt gadgets?? THanks!
I highly recommend the grappling hook. I find I use it even more than my 20 ft stick clip of doom.
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Tree_wrangler
Jan 8, 2009, 10:46 PM
Post #19 of 28
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I think tricams are just great.
That being said, I no longer own any.
Part of the reason you should have a mentor of sorts, aside from learning their techniques, is that they'll have their rack together already, as granite_grrl already mentioned. By climbing with them, you'll get to "try before you buy" all the tools and toys that they've already got.
To get a truly complete rack, you're talking money, no matter how you slice it. If you find that you really dig trad, it is probably inevitable that you'll strongly desire a set (or more) of good cams. Once you have those, you'll find yourself placing fewer and fewer hexes, nuts, tricams, etc.
Still, you'll find that a set (or more) of nuts compliments a rack of cams, so you can plan on always having a use for them. Therefore, if you've just got to spend, nuts aren't a bad idea. I'm using mostly Wild Country nuts, and my one positive comment concerning them is that the set is large, and the larger nuts in the set cover some of the same size placements that moderate sized hexes cover. It's not my only positive comment....I really like them, they're just not "better" than BD's, or whoever else is putting them out.
You should know that your quickdraws will find utility in trad frequently, so you don't need to totally replace them with "trad draws". You just need to have some long sling draws available to you. Many folks make the pre-configured "trad draws" that they've already described to you, but if you need a little simplification on your first couple times out, I usually just wear a set of 24" slings like a bandolier, and have a number of free 'biners on my hip if I need to construct a long draw.
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clemsonscooby
Jan 9, 2009, 3:26 PM
Post #22 of 28
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Registered: Dec 21, 2006
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C3 #1 maybe #0 ,C4 .3-.75, 4 the 5 is not really necessary. The micro cams really came in handy on a few cracks that wouldn't take nuts. I remember on Fote Hog the beginning have a section of crack that was really thin and would be R rated without a micro. The person on the route before us was looking at a ground fall from 40' because of an insufficient rack. Good luck, JTree is an awesome place to learn. The routes listed in the Trad Guide to JTree are all VERY protectable.
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DoubleChin
Jan 9, 2009, 3:35 PM
Post #23 of 28
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Registered: Dec 31, 2008
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Tree_wrangler wrote: In reply to: 2) an experianced partner to climb with with their own rack Seconded.
Second Second...
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jermanimal
Jan 9, 2009, 8:15 PM
Post #24 of 28
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Registered: Nov 7, 2007
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climberslacker wrote: ...I climb josh mostly, but also mission...
ha ha
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climberslacker
Jan 10, 2009, 11:02 PM
Post #25 of 28
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Registered: Dec 3, 2006
Posts: 94
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went to the gear shop today, got
4 24" slings
6 biners
dg c4 #4
metolious curve nut full set
in the mail:
7 more biners
3 more slings
anything more suggestions?
thanks for the help so far!
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