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porkchop_express
Oct 13, 2008, 8:41 AM
Post #1 of 4
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Registered: Aug 18, 2006
Posts: 62
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I am planning on heading out to Tahquitz next week to climb some moderate/easy stuff. I was wondering which of the two descent routes would be better/safer: the north gully or the friction route?
I am relatively new to longer multi-pitch leading and I would prefer the more idiot proof of the two since the descent tends to be harder than most of the climbs I have led so far...
While we're at it...here's what I'm thinking about climbing-
one of the lark routes 5.5-5.7, probably hard lark from what I was reading in the guidebook...
Fingertrip 5.7
or
Sahara Terror also a 7.
To put my abilities in context, I was really comfortable on "Bears Reach" in Tahoe when I was there which is a 7 and on "Its better with bacon" which is an 8, but I would really like to get some feedback from those more experienced than I.
Thanks in advance,
Steve
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Arrogant_Bastard
Oct 13, 2008, 10:52 PM
Post #2 of 4
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Registered: Oct 31, 2007
Posts: 19994
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Well, if you're climbing on the North face I'd take the north gully descent. If you're climbing on the South Face I'd take the friction decent. And if you're climbing on the west face, flip a coin. I don't think any one is 'safer' than the other, but for that matter, I don't think either is dangerous. The North Gully is a bit more obvious, at least the upper part.
If you’re going to do a Lark route then Sahara Terror would be the obvious choice for a second, but I suppose if you have to ask you’re probably not planning on doing both in a day.
What type of gear are you using and is it in good shape (i.e. shiny)?
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pmyche
Oct 13, 2008, 11:17 PM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2004
Posts: 1160
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alleyehave
Oct 14, 2008, 12:31 AM
Post #4 of 4
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Registered: Nov 13, 2005
Posts: 461
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The friction descent is most direct and therefore the quickest way to the base of the rock..but also tricky to decypher. I'd recommend asking someone there to show you, even if it means waiting for them to finish a pitch. Otherwise, scramble your way to the gully descent.
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