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mar_leclerc
Apr 7, 2009, 3:30 AM
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So, I was trying to lead this hard finger/tips crack today. It's probably somewhere around 5.11c and very sustained. I was in some nasty thin locks and peeled. My stopper held (it was solid) and when I stopped I looked and I had ripped chinks of skin out of my fingers and could see it in the crack (eeewwww!) I thought I would post this just because I'm stoked that I really pushed myself on gear and took a fall, now I know that I can trust my gear and push hard...
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coastal_climber
Apr 7, 2009, 3:54 AM
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nice dude! make sure ur the only one loosing skin or u might get an std...
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mar_leclerc
Apr 7, 2009, 4:18 AM
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Haha... nasty ^
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ShibbyShane
Apr 7, 2009, 5:30 AM
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Pictures!
I thrashed the side of my hand when I feel out of a finger crack.. not sure how that happened.
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tradrenn
Apr 7, 2009, 8:58 AM
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I did similar thing to my fists this weekend, I tried "Split Beaver"
What route did you do ?
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bill413
Apr 7, 2009, 12:59 PM
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When you climb a route, you're climbing with every climber who climbed that route.
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mar_leclerc
Apr 7, 2009, 3:20 PM
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tradrenn wrote: I did similar thing to my fists this weekend, I tried "Split Beaver" What route did you do ?
I was on 'Crack of Dawn' near Harrison Hot Springs....
its hard to see but its the central splitter on the face, with a wet streak at the top (taken last year) its all cleaned up now
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dretket
Apr 7, 2009, 3:25 PM
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Haha Nice. I did something similar this last weekend. Was doing Trezlar, a classic corner at Smith. Climb was still in the shade, and after 20 minutes up, I couldnt feel any of my fingers. Took a fall onto a finger-lock. I didnt think much of it, till I looked down. I had blood running down my wrist.
Enough about me. Congrats on pushing your limits and keep at it.
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krusher4
Apr 7, 2009, 3:44 PM
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bill413 wrote: When you climb a route, you're climbing with every climber who climbed that route.
that's why you should always use protection.....tape....
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tradrenn
Apr 7, 2009, 8:25 PM
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Not the best pic, but oh well.
I think the worst thing I had happen to me was when my fingers stayed in the crack, but the rest of my body peeled off.
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hafilax
Apr 7, 2009, 8:58 PM
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Nice Marc! What's the verdict on placing gear on that thing?
Whenever I think of losing skin to the rock Split Beaver comes to mind. I'm wearing long sleeves the next time I try it. I think I need to figure out how to Leavittate to get up that thing in style.
I hear High Plains Drifter is another hand wrecker.
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dretket
Apr 7, 2009, 9:00 PM
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That happened to a guy I was climbing with one...he dislocated his pinky midclimb...and still finished it off.
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milesenoell
Apr 7, 2009, 9:54 PM
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finishing the route on a dislocated finger is more hardcore than I plan to get, but I have come close to getting a chance to try. I was climbing on a fingers/tips crack and when my feet blew off I pulled one hand out as I started to fall, but the other hand was in tight and I ended up falling on a two fingers jam with my arm fully extended. Mucho cruncho.
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seatbeltpants
Apr 8, 2009, 12:35 AM
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bill413 wrote: When you climb a route, you're climbing with every climber who climbed that route.
mate, so true. all my friends are i are a bunch of bleeders, leaving our skin, blood, and chunks of flesh all over the place. even our gym is stained. great stuff.
steve
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hafilax
Apr 8, 2009, 12:42 AM
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I once sprung a gusher from my middle finger cuticle. The particularly squeamish partner that followed wouldn't touch any holds with blood on them. That must have bumped the grade a bit.
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bill413
Apr 8, 2009, 12:45 AM
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rofl
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seatbeltpants
Apr 8, 2009, 1:22 AM
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what a soft cock - half dried blood is the manly version of pof.
steve
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mar_leclerc
Apr 8, 2009, 9:39 PM
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hafilax wrote: Nice Marc! What's the verdict on placing gear on that thing?
Its not bad... small cams and stoppers work well enough... I mean you have to look for placements but it isnt run out...
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