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jsj7051
May 6, 2008, 1:58 AM
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Looking for some beta on Moore's Wall. Super Direct at Sentinal , It's listed in NC Selected as 5.8. The crux is obviously at the ground to the roof ( maybe 10' ) I finally found a way to do it , but either
1- I missed holds/moves
2- I just found the hardest 5.8 in the country
3- It's under rated by.2
4- I went wayyyyy backwards in my abilites
Thanks in advance for the info and/or sarcasim.
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JohnCook
May 6, 2008, 2:09 AM
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Perhaps its a British style 'traditional' grade. This usually means many years a go, when gear was minimal, it was climbed and given a low grade. As time has passed the grade has stayed the same for the route, but it is accepted that the start is a real pig, eg Veranda Buttress, Stanage Edge, Peak. 5a move to start a diff route. (5a is about 4 or five full grades harder than diff)
Check the history of the crag.
If you can climb it, leave it at 5.8 and stand around looking superior, sandbagging is great full when no-one will be hurt.
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jsj7051
May 6, 2008, 2:56 AM
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Thanks for the reminder, I checked the history and found a few 1st accents by someone I think I know and I'll check w/ him.
For the rest of you looking puzzled,My partner and I removed our rope and lead start and stepped back and for an hour spotted each other until we found a way to get off the ground on what would maybe be a V0 boulder problem? I've never bouldered so don't know how they decide on a grade. I just thought this was unusual for a trad listing , but what do I know.
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forkliftdaddy
May 6, 2008, 3:12 AM
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It is a bit of a sandbag at 5.8. I'd say it is a 5.9 move IF you find the right holds, harder, of course, if you don't. I guess that because it is a short crux and close to the ground, it has always gotten the traditional, you can-scope-it-out-and-down-climb discount.
For anyone who hasn't managed it, please be aware that because the hard bit is right off the ground, you need to get good gear at the lip and then be considerate of your second. If you blow the move you shouldn't deck with awake belayer and good gear. If you do a long first pitch and your second falls off, however, decking IS VERY likely -- a couple of my friends have. It is best to only do a short first pitch.
SPOILER ALERT: So what follows is some pretty specific beta, enough to spoil an onsight and probably not enough to be useful. Besides, it is probably wrong. Memory is damn near fiction, and I haven't been on the route in a couple years. Those are some pretty hard moves to get out to the lip, eh? High, undercut feet and that jam left of the corner lead to small holds and then underclings on poor feet. And THEN the real fun starts. WTF, eh? You reach up and find that slick sloping ledge. If you reach to the left on that ledge you can find a better spot. I think it might even decently be incut. Get your feet positioned and reach over the lip to an okay hold above the ledge (in the corner on the right side, I think). And, then, um, I don't remember, exactly. I think there's another good hold up there... somewhere... 
(When my girlfriend got the better part of the sloping ledge she put her heel up next to her head and pulled through somehow. Looked a bit too bendy for me.)
(This post was edited by forkliftdaddy on May 13, 2008, 6:58 PM)
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dashclimber306
May 6, 2008, 3:34 AM
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5.8 is a misprint, it was 5.9 in the old guides. Heel hooking and smooth rock-over technique make that thing definitely not harder than 5.9. Great gear at the start is available. My spoiler beta: place nut at start but do not set it. belayer can then flip it out once leader is up a ways. great for reducing rope drag, especially if linking this into Edge of Fire.
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jsj7051
May 6, 2008, 3:40 AM
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