For NC:

Get the three largest micro stoppers, a full set of stoppers, some small tricams, double cams from 00 TCU thru #2 C4, and get #3 and #4 C4s...handful of draws, 12 or so trad draws, some 48 inchers, and two cordalettes...much like Shull's guidebook says.

You're definitely going to need triples of your pink tricam, that way you can file two down. ...

Lastly, if you find I beams? Buy them, sell them to Knieveltech and buy that a #4 camalot! Have fun ahrensweet...learning to trad climb in the southeast will ready you for climbing anywhere.

You're definitely going to need triples of your pink tricam, that way you can file two down.

Having more than one pink tricam is definitely a plus, but there's no need to go through the aggravation of filing them down. Get one of the new smaller black tricams (.25), which is half the size of the pink. They also make a .125, but I'd be concerned about it being too hard to clean.

Apart from tricams (which are great especially in Looking Glass eyebrows), I don't think a NC rack is going to be significantly different from a standard rack for most other places.

JL

.3-3 C4 BD and all C3's. I know of a few places to put a #4, but not worth the money to have doubles.

Surprisingly, this thread's question was answered without any trolls, but if they start a' comin' check out the CCC boards.

I think the best part about climbing with people from North Carolina is the look of utter horror on their faces when I pull the pink tricams (always plural) off the rack and leave them in the car.

Its seriously awesome.

I think the best part about climbing with people from North Carolina is the look of utter horror on their faces when I pull the pink tricams (always plural) off the rack and leave them in the car.

Its seriously awesome.

It must be a side effect of climbing really easy stuff but I've spotted at least one #5 placement on every pitch I've lead so far. YMMV

yeah yeah yeah. I'll remember that when I'm dragging your ass up a couple hundred feet of face with nary a jam in sight.


edited to add:

For pure awesome I think yelling down "Hand stacks!" from a blind stance takes the prize.

We've had this discussion before, but I have to say that if the only draw about your area is how run out it is, it must not be very good climbing.

That said, I've yet to find a horizontal, even a shallow one, that liked a tricam more than a tcu. Could just be me though. Pink tricams are great if you don't want doubles in that size tcu (red?), but I simply don't understand the cult of the tricam.

Finally, that section takes hand stacks. Or rattly fists. I don't recall you disagreeing.

Runouts appear to be a side effect of some of the local rock types, and definitely have been enshrined in pantheon of local hardman bullshit, but there's definitely good climbing (and even well protected) to be had.

What exactly is NC Hardman Bullshit? What exactly would people like to be different? Would people like to do things by the Lowest Common Denominator? Take the adventure out of NC climbing by watering things down for those insecure with their own abilities?

Routes were put up with inferior technology compared to whats found on todays climbing rack. Somewhere along the lines new climbers with new toys have lost confidence and awareness in their climbing ability, their very best form of protection. As a result climbers with a lack of confidence, conceptual and experiential understanding will deem things as "Hardman" or "elitist." There is no question however, that particular climbs and areas of North Carolina are truly bold climbs.

And those climbs must truly suck if the primary draw is how bold they are.

Look at the runout scarefests in Eldo or on grit. You end up with classic movement with minimal pro. All I ever hear about from NC is slab paddling. Slab paddling is never that fun, no matter how far apart the bolts are.

There is something to be respected in ground up, bolting from free stances. But the stuff you guys do, it just seems like you're trying to perpetuate this hardman myth. The shitty rappel anchors, the poorly bolted slabs, the frankly baffling perpetuation of the old boys club. That's not proud, that's a circle jerk.

Now you'll excuse me, I have to go climbing.

And those climbs must truly suck if the primary draw is how bold they are.

Look at the runout scarefests in Eldo or on grit. You end up with classic movement with minimal pro. All I ever hear about from NC is slab paddling. Slab paddling is never that fun, no matter how far apart the bolts are.

There is something to be respected in ground up, bolting from free stances. But the stuff you guys do, it just seems like you're trying to perpetuate this hardman myth. The shitty rappel anchors, the poorly bolted slabs, the frankly baffling perpetuation of the old boys club. That's not proud, that's a circle jerk.

Now you'll excuse me, I have to go climbing.

This is complete nonsense from someone who has obviously never climbed in NC. There is actually very little slab climbing in NC, and so what if it is runout and bolted on lead. Sounds a lot like any other slab bolted on lead like anywhere else (think Tuolumne). I've climbed extensively in Eldo, and NC is very similar.. .good movement on steep, mostly well protected climbs with the occasional runouts. I have yet in 3+ years and having climbed at most every major NC area to come accross a rap anchor that I thought was scary. Most of the people who complain about "NC hardman bullshit", whatever that is, are usually noobs, or insecure leaders, or both. Bolting traditional routes in NC would be no different than deciding we should bolt the protectable offwidths at Vedauwoo.