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lars
Jun 16, 2002, 4:04 PM
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I am not sure, but i believe using twin ropes involves cliping only one rope through each piece of protection in order to reduce rope drag.
I am curious about the belay method used. It seems like you couldn't give slack while keeping the other rope locked off in a tube style belay device. Does anyone have any advice, stories, or info that could help me get this technique down?
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cathal
Jun 16, 2002, 4:32 PM
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I have never lead with a twin rope system (only on a single rope), but I have climbed as a second and belayed on one.
If you are placing pro one above the other (i.e. not zig zagging your placemants) then clip both ropes into each placement.
However if the leader is protecting himself with two placements(i.e. one out to his left and another out to his right), then he should clip only one rope into each. As he requires slack to clip one of the ropes into a placement the belayer should just lock off the dead rope on the other rope (with one hand), and pay out slack on the other rope(with his other hand).
Ideally you should have to different coloured ropes, so as the leader can call for slack on one.
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cathal
Jun 16, 2002, 4:35 PM
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[ This Message was edited by: cathal on 2002-06-16 09:39 ]
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estwing
Jun 16, 2002, 11:33 PM
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I am not sure that what has been mentioned is the best way to use doubles, check out this link, they have an article about proper technique.
http://www.gunks.com/index.htm
Click on climb at the top of the page, scroll down to double ropes.
Hope this is helpfull.
SAM
Edited for clarity
[ This Message was edited by: estwing on 2002-06-16 16:36 ]
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bradhill
Jun 17, 2002, 12:01 AM
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No. Twin ropes (~7mm but see rope tag) require that you clip both ropes through every piece. Double ropes (~8.5mm, again see rope tag) are supposed to be clipped alternately through pro. This is an important distinction to understand.
Twin rope technique reduces the chance that a fall over an edge will cut both your ropes, and provides a bit of extra safety in things like ice climbing where there are many other sharp things about that might cut a line. Twin ropes may fail if you use them as double ropes. The belay for this is essentially the same as for a single rope.
Double ropes are beefier. They're meant to be used to reduce rope drag on long, zig-zaggy routes in addition to the reasons listed for twin ropes. A single strand of double will usually hold a leader fall, but may break after absorbing enough for the second strand to be able to catch the remaining force. Even for double ropes, you should clip both ropes into the piece protecting the belay and only then start alternating your clips. The belay technique for this when placing pro is to pay out slack with your non-breaking hand on the line being clipped. The thinner ropes should run through your belay device find without needing both hands to feed.
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cathal
Jun 24, 2002, 9:59 AM
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Registered: Aug 6, 2001
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sorry !
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