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spikeddem
Oct 10, 2008, 4:14 AM
Post #51 of 57
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Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319
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Tipton wrote: My first real lead fall was on a 5.10b trad route (Summit Attempt, Bee Rock TN). I had the climb linked on top rope and immediately started leading it. I ran out the headwall under the impression that it was in my best interests to focus on the climbing and get it over with. The end result was me whipping onto the only bolt on the pitch, 15 feet above the ledge that sits above the headwall. Unfortunately for me, I was about 15 above the bolt. The outcome was me coming to a halt on the ledge. The rope took the momentum out of my fall, but I still decked. What pissed me off the most was that I knew the risk, took it, and still screwed up. That same day, I popped one foot on a 5.8 slab climb that I was goofing off on. I ended up sliding 20 feet of the face on my ass and landing on my feet at the bottom. Before you ask, there was no protection so 20 feet was pretty good considering the options. Oh well, after that one day I figured I can't really take any worse falls without killing myself so I'm not too worried about whipping anymore.
See four posts up. 
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shockabuku
Oct 10, 2008, 11:27 AM
Post #53 of 57
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Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
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ja1484 wrote: People should be required to climb trad for two years competently under the supervision of a properly skilled mentor before being turned loose on their style of choice, just for the good of the community in general.
That, and two years of public service as well!!1! I wholeheartedly agree. You should run for president.
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jrathfon
Oct 10, 2008, 2:06 PM
Post #54 of 57
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Registered: Jun 5, 2006
Posts: 494
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ja1484 wrote: People should be required to climb trad for two years competently under the supervision of a properly skilled mentor before being turned loose on their style of choice, just for the good of the community in general.
Sounds like a group that still exists today.... cough, the AMC, cough. Wasn't there a group that rebelled against this idea...
Not like they ever accomplished anything... cough, VMC direct direct, cough.
My first trad lead fall, can't remember. But like a few of you, there was no access to sport. I do remember, early in my leading days however, taking a 60fter after a 1/4" 70's bolt with a homemade hangar blew out (one of the rare "sport" routes). I was about 57' up the route, yup, that's right. The rope caught me and I landed in a depression by the base of the route, about one foot from decking. I had slipped while clipping the 3rd bolt, sheared the 2nd bolt, the bolts were all about 20ft apart, sporty sport!
My first, and only, lead ice fall was onto a tied off stubby screw that had grounded out on the rock underneath. I was on top of the climb slinging a tree when my crampon rocked back and caught a soft spot in the snow, so now there was nothing under my heel, I swung to try to grab the sling and missed as I lost my balance backwards. I fell head over heels over the last bulge of the climb (about 20'), hit the slab below (right by the screw), and slid on my back another 30 ft before coming to rest. I got up, borrowed my buddies tools, mine were stowed at the top, and re-climbed the route, pretty embarrassing.
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AlexCV
Oct 10, 2008, 2:33 PM
Post #55 of 57
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Registered: Jan 25, 2008
Posts: 283
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Well, my first (trad) lead fall was more of an embarrassment then anything else. I was climbing an easy (5.6?) corner at the upper tiers of poke-o and I slipped on the wet grassy/licheny mantle at the top of the climb. The "fall" was more of a slow-motion slide and I was stopped by a 0.5 tech friend.
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fresh
Oct 10, 2008, 7:24 PM
Post #56 of 57
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Registered: Aug 7, 2007
Posts: 1199
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jrathfon wrote: My first, and only, lead ice fall was onto a tied off stubby screw that had grounded out on the rock underneath. I was on top of the climb slinging a tree when my crampon rocked back and caught a soft spot in the snow, so now there was nothing under my heel, I swung to try to grab the sling and missed as I lost my balance backwards. I fell head over heels over the last bulge of the climb (about 20'), hit the slab below (right by the screw), and slid on my back another 30 ft before coming to rest. I got up, borrowed my buddies tools, mine were stowed at the top, and re-climbed the route, pretty embarrassing.
T
F
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southswell
Oct 10, 2008, 7:47 PM
Post #57 of 57
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Registered: Mar 26, 2007
Posts: 59
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[
People should be required to climb trad for two years competently under the supervision of a properly skilled mentor before being turned loose on their style of choice, just for the good of the community in general.
Yeah, that would be a great idea! Not
And who would be the governing body of such lunacy? You? Mr. Long?
People just need to understand the difference between climbing styles. Sport climbing, while good for learning climbing technique and to clip gear is in no other way an analogue to trad. It is the climbers responsibility to know this, and to take appropriate action to learn the trade.
Ill bet your a union worker?
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