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decorator_crab


May 8, 2007, 5:21 PM
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endercore


May 8, 2007, 5:43 PM
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Re: [decorator_crab] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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where are your ethics... how are you just going to walk off with all of those draws.


bigfatrock


May 8, 2007, 6:15 PM
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Re: [decorator_crab] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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Troll? If not for all you know the person could have been on lunch break around the corner or something. You should also consider that if there really were left that the person could have got the permission of the property owner. I would check with the owner next time before you take gear down. My local crag is about to get shut down and I have a feeling it is because of irresponsible climbers.


slablizard


May 8, 2007, 6:26 PM
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Re: [decorator_crab] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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decorator_crab wrote:
I was out climbing at the Gold Wall yesterday and saw something very disappointing. The left side routes all had fixed chain draws and biners!Mad

Seriously, what is with that?? This crag is on PRIVATE PROPERTY and people are littering it up with that junk? Those draws weren't there when I did the climbs a couple years ago, and they are totally unnecessary! Fixed draws on Stacked Deck? it's .11c! Is that some kind of joke?? Sack up and hang a draw, it takes half a second!!Mad

I went ahead and cleaned the draws off the routes that I did on the left side (3). I left the biners on the anchors so people can lower off. Ordinarily, I'd offer to return the gear to whoever put it there, but then I'm afraid it might just end up back on the wall.Mad

Seriously, where are the ethics? Where is the concern for access? Is this just Bay Area wankertude invading climbing? Stay at Mission Cliffs!! Mad

Well you were climbing at the G-Wall because someone went up cleaned and bolted those routes, leaving those fixed draws in place.
I suggest you show some respect and put those fixed draws back , or leave them where they can be reused. Who entitled yo to do it anyway?
The climbers bolting there know the owners and have teir permission do develop there.

I do not have time to go there and bolt during the week , so I am participating "funding" the bolting process buying the stuff you just took down.
(chains, bolts and biners)
Don't you dare do the same on the harder projects and put that gear back where we can find it.

Oh and if you feel like helping, leave some money or clean up some poison oak next time, but leave the routes alone.


(This post was edited by slablizard on May 8, 2007, 6:27 PM)


Partner j_ung


May 8, 2007, 6:42 PM
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Re: [slablizard] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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slablizard wrote:
decorator_crab wrote:
I was out climbing at the Gold Wall yesterday and saw something very disappointing. The left side routes all had fixed chain draws and biners!Mad

Seriously, what is with that?? This crag is on PRIVATE PROPERTY and people are littering it up with that junk? Those draws weren't there when I did the climbs a couple years ago, and they are totally unnecessary! Fixed draws on Stacked Deck? it's .11c! Is that some kind of joke?? Sack up and hang a draw, it takes half a second!!Mad

I went ahead and cleaned the draws off the routes that I did on the left side (3). I left the biners on the anchors so people can lower off. Ordinarily, I'd offer to return the gear to whoever put it there, but then I'm afraid it might just end up back on the wall.Mad

Seriously, where are the ethics? Where is the concern for access? Is this just Bay Area wankertude invading climbing? Stay at Mission Cliffs!! Mad

Well you were climbing at the G-Wall because someone went up cleaned and bolted those routes, leaving those fixed draws in place.
I suggest you show some respect and put those fixed draws back , or leave them where they can be reused. Who entitled yo to do it anyway?
The climbers bolting there know the owners and have teir permission do develop there.

I do not have time to go there and bolt during the week , so I am participating "funding" the bolting process buying the stuff you just took down.
(chains, bolts and biners)
Don't you dare do the same on the harder projects and put that gear back where we can find it.

Oh and if you feel like helping, leave some money or clean up some poison oak next time, but leave the routes alone.

Massive trophy for slablizard! Way to use the quote function!


randomtask


May 8, 2007, 7:01 PM
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Re: [slablizard] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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YES!!!! This is what rc.com is about-vicious banter and threats. Can't wait to read the rest. Cool
-JR


dbrayack


May 8, 2007, 7:01 PM
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Re: [j_ung] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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Funny enough, I was sitting in my living room this morning, making fixed draws (from my booty rack.) for crag XX.


bandycoot


May 8, 2007, 7:03 PM
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Re: [j_ung] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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So, if fixed draws were taken off of private property and were there with the land owner's permission wouldn't that constitute theft? Man that guy's a wanker and a half. I hope he got in a car accident on the way home. Unsure


redpoint73


May 8, 2007, 7:07 PM
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Re: [bandycoot] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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OP obviously deleted the post, b/c he realized (from everyone's replies) how wrong he was.

Hopefully he returns the hardware.


slablizard


May 8, 2007, 7:09 PM
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Re: [randomtask] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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randomtask wrote:
YES!!!! This is what rc.com is about-vicious banter and threats. Can't wait to read the rest. Cool
-JR


AhhhhhWink
The good old times of the bolt wars...I was so naive back then....and young...and beautiful.....


But I am way meaner now Cool


slablizard


May 8, 2007, 7:11 PM
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Re: [redpoint73] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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redpoint73 wrote:
OP obviously deleted the post, b/c he realized (from everyone's replies) how wrong he was.

Hopefully he returns the hardware.


Hope so, that stuff costs money.
I PMd him asking to return the booty.
What do you do with chains and old heavy biners anyway if you aren't a developer?


randomtask


May 8, 2007, 7:36 PM
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Re: [slablizard] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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Oh...I could think of some uses for chains heheBlush
-JR


overlord


May 9, 2007, 7:58 AM
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Re: [slablizard] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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slablizard wrote:
decorator_crab wrote:
I was out climbing at the Gold Wall yesterday and saw something very disappointing. The left side routes all had fixed chain draws and biners!Mad

Seriously, what is with that?? This crag is on PRIVATE PROPERTY and people are littering it up with that junk? Those draws weren't there when I did the climbs a couple years ago, and they are totally unnecessary! Fixed draws on Stacked Deck? it's .11c! Is that some kind of joke?? Sack up and hang a draw, it takes half a second!!Mad

I went ahead and cleaned the draws off the routes that I did on the left side (3). I left the biners on the anchors so people can lower off. Ordinarily, I'd offer to return the gear to whoever put it there, but then I'm afraid it might just end up back on the wall.Mad

Seriously, where are the ethics? Where is the concern for access? Is this just Bay Area wankertude invading climbing? Stay at Mission Cliffs!! Mad

Well you were climbing at the G-Wall because someone went up cleaned and bolted those routes, leaving those fixed draws in place.
I suggest you show some respect and put those fixed draws back , or leave them where they can be reused. Who entitled yo to do it anyway?
The climbers bolting there know the owners and have teir permission do develop there.

I do not have time to go there and bolt during the week , so I am participating "funding" the bolting process buying the stuff you just took down.
(chains, bolts and biners)
Don't you dare do the same on the harder projects and put that gear back where we can find it.

Oh and if you feel like helping, leave some money or clean up some poison oak next time, but leave the routes alone.

way to use the quote slabWink now anyone can still read the op even if he chickened out and removed it.

and the OP really shouldve assumed that whoever put the fixed draws up had an agreement with the owners (because i assume it wasnt just a few draws on one route, like youd expect from 'unauthorized' fixing).

and stealing fixed gear is serious bad karma. youd better put it back.


dingus


May 9, 2007, 10:29 AM
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Re: [redpoint73] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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redpoint73 wrote:
OP obviously deleted the post, b/c he realized (from everyone's replies) how wrong he was.

Hopefully he returns the hardware.

The OP deleted his post because he's a chicken shit motherfucking thief.

What's your name pround man thief?????

DMT


svilnit


May 9, 2007, 12:30 PM
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Re: [dingus] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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Not only the post, but the profile is cleaned out. I bet he posted up thinking he was going to be a hero and couldn't stand the heat of the flame thrower!


slablizard


May 9, 2007, 10:55 PM
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Re: [dingus] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
redpoint73 wrote:
OP obviously deleted the post, b/c he realized (from everyone's replies) how wrong he was.

Hopefully he returns the hardware.

The OP deleted his post because he's a chicken shit motherfucking thief.

What's your name pround man thief?????

DMT

I hope I can get out there sunday and see if he actually did it.
I am not crazy about fixed draws either on anything easier than 12c...but I wouldn't remove them from a route I didn't set up...
Besides the GW is really just for climbers, there's no one around ever that could be noticing the draws and complain, I mean..it's not Tuolomne...:) you go there because you're working on one of those routes, not for a walk...


slablizard


May 10, 2007, 11:23 PM
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Re: [slablizard] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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Ok Don was there yesterday, bolting yet another line, (way to go Don!) and the fixed draws are still there. The whole thing was a fake.


sbaclimber


May 10, 2007, 11:29 PM
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Re: [slablizard] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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slablizard wrote:
The whole thing was a fake.
If it had gone T3+, we might have had a strong contender for the Troll of the Year Award!


dingus


May 10, 2007, 11:34 PM
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Re: [sbaclimber] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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Right on...

DMT


desertdude420


May 11, 2007, 12:25 AM
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Re: [dingus] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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Leaving ANY gear behind when you leave is poor form. Fixed anchors are bad enough. I don't care how hard core the first ascent was...take your gear home with you! Littering the crag gives climbers a bad name. A local "core" climber has been "working" on his latest 5.14 whatever and leaves draws and fixed ropes all over. It looks bad. Like some kind of self memorial or something! If you can't climb a route unless the draws are all pre-placed than do something within your ability.

Oh, boy. The sport climbers are going to hate me now!


zeke_sf


May 11, 2007, 1:05 AM
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Re: [desertdude420] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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^^^Yeah, you've obviously never been to this crag. First off, they were fixed draws (chains to biners), not just some hardman's draws for a particular project. Second, this "littering" as you put it, will NEVER be seen by anybody but climbers. Sport climbers. Thirdly, you must know that pinkpoint is the new redpoint. Fourthly, who gives a fuck? You've never been and probably never will go to this crag, so why don't you...have a nice day Wink.


desertdude420


May 11, 2007, 1:23 AM
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Re: [zeke_sf] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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I still have a hard time understanding why some sport climbers are hell-bent on making outdoor crags look just the gyms that they learned at. Even if it's "okay" with other climbers. If the route is too hard to do without pre-placing the draws, then it's too hard for you! Same goes for tic marks, and chipping. Reducing a climb to your level is bad form. I mean sheesh, how hard is it clip a draw on a bolt?!

"Wow, look at this. Someone just bailed and left all those draws on that route. BOOTY!"


(This post was edited by desertdude420 on May 11, 2007, 1:32 AM)


zeke_sf


May 11, 2007, 1:40 AM
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Re: [desertdude420] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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desertdude420 wrote:
"Wow, look at this. Someone just bailed and left all those draws on that route. BOOTY!"

I guess the only thing protecting those draws is the fact you can't even climb up to the first one to retrieve it. Admit it, you had to rap clean those "booty" draws!


endercore


May 11, 2007, 2:24 AM
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Re: [zeke_sf] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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maybe its because i'm used to super steep rrg climbs, but the benefit of fixed draws is not to save energy putting the draws up, but rather taking them down.


rjtrials


May 11, 2007, 2:46 AM
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Re: [zeke_sf] No Fixed Draws at the crag!!!! [In reply to]
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zeke_sf wrote:
desertdude420 wrote:
"Wow, look at this. Someone just bailed and left all those draws on that route. BOOTY!"

I guess the only thing protecting those draws is the fact you can't even climb up to the first one to retrieve it. Admit it, you had to rap clean those "booty" draws!

Sadly this has happened at a local crag. Apparently, climbing 5.9 trad makes someone far superiour to climbing 5.13 sport.

Also, on steep sport routes, biners/quicklinks are commonly left for cleaning purposes. If u don't know how to use them, leave em alone. They are not bail or booty.

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