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Danxz
Sep 3, 2013, 8:27 AM
Post #51 of 55
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Registered: Aug 7, 2013
Posts: 17
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I do whatever is best for the situation.
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patto
Sep 3, 2013, 12:43 PM
Post #52 of 55
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Registered: Nov 15, 2005
Posts: 1453
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Danxz wrote: An autoblock or autolock simply adds to safety.
Many times autoblocks are used totally inappropriately. Even this thread has descriptions of flawed autoblock usage. A non functional backup is less safe that no backup.
The evidence for autolocking belay devices don't seem particularly better either. There have been countless noob mistakes with grigris, in no small part due to the complacency they breed.
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dagibbs
Sep 3, 2013, 2:33 PM
Post #53 of 55
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
Posts: 921
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Danxz wrote: climbers who have died making stupid errors. Anything that adds to safety is worthwhile ... unless you some idiot who wants to die.
Just about every absolute statement is false. Especially on the internet.
All safety choices are about balancing costs and advantages. If you truly believed that "anything that adds to safety..." that anything would be to not go rock climbing, since that would increase your safety. Also, you would never get in a car and drive on the public roads, or...
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wonderwoman
Sep 3, 2013, 8:37 PM
Post #54 of 55
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Registered: Dec 14, 2002
Posts: 4275
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patto wrote: wonderwoman wrote: Personally, I set up my autobloc on my brake hand side. If I were to lose control, my cord would eventually jam up my rap device, preventing me from going further. That is idiotic. Your rap device might not jam, if often doesn't. In which case you have no backup. If you are going to use an autobloc, for gods sake make sure it works reliably.
My autobloc works reliably. Thanks for your concern, though.
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