|
Danx
Jun 23, 2011, 9:45 PM
Post #1 of 10
(2172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 22, 2011
Posts: 55
|
|
|
|
|
|
dbogardus
Jun 23, 2011, 9:54 PM
Post #3 of 10
(2161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2009
Posts: 148
|
Danx wrote: What's the best way to secure yourself when setting up an anchor for bottom roping. I usually just use a sling and attach it to one of the anchor points, but after seeing a recent video from DMM, was surprised to see how weak they are when there is slack in the system.
Clove hitch with a fig.8 backup (if you prefer a backup).
You can still clip into the anchor with a sling but make sure you're not taking a significant fall onto static material.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Jun 23, 2011, 10:09 PM
Post #4 of 10
(2144 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
I rappel in on a separate piece of rope that's just long enough to get me past the anchor, usually with a Gri-gri and always with a stopper knot tied in the end of the rope.
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Jun 23, 2011, 10:15 PM
Post #5 of 10
(2133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
j_ung wrote: I rappel in on a separate piece of rope that's just long enough to get me past the anchor, usually with a Gri-gri and always with a stopper knot tied in the end of the rope.
Gets my vote...
|
|
|
|
|
Danx
Jun 23, 2011, 10:20 PM
Post #6 of 10
(2127 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 22, 2011
Posts: 55
|
|
|
|
|
|
kachoong
Jun 23, 2011, 10:28 PM
Post #7 of 10
(2112 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
Danx wrote: j_ung wrote: I rappel in on a separate piece of rope that's just long enough to get me past the anchor, usually with a Gri-gri and always with a stopper knot tied in the end of the rope. Probably didn't explain the situation well enough. But the anchor would be setup on top of the rocks on a small single pitch climb, which are easily accessible from scrambling. The securing part is just incase i feel a bit clumbsy while setting up the natural anchors, attaching the static rope etc (so wouldnt need to rappel or anything like that). Would the best method still be as you said above tho, just a seperate rope, with a stopper knot and maybe a clove hitch?
If the climb is short enough, as you say, you can still use the same rope you're top-roping with. You're belaying from the top, right?
|
|
|
|
|
Danx
Jun 23, 2011, 10:30 PM
Post #8 of 10
(2107 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 22, 2011
Posts: 55
|
|
|
|
|
|
kachoong
Jun 23, 2011, 10:33 PM
Post #9 of 10
(2104 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
Danx wrote: kachoong wrote: Danx wrote: j_ung wrote: I rappel in on a separate piece of rope that's just long enough to get me past the anchor, usually with a Gri-gri and always with a stopper knot tied in the end of the rope. Probably didn't explain the situation well enough. But the anchor would be setup on top of the rocks on a small single pitch climb, which are easily accessible from scrambling. The securing part is just incase i feel a bit clumbsy while setting up the natural anchors, attaching the static rope etc (so wouldnt need to rappel or anything like that). Would the best method still be as you said above tho, just a seperate rope, with a stopper knot and maybe a clove hitch? If the climb is short enough, as you say, you can still use the same rope you're top-roping with. You're belaying from the top, right? nope, belaying from the bottom.
Oh right... guess I didn't understand fully. In that case I'd go with Jay's suggestion.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Jun 23, 2011, 11:38 PM
Post #10 of 10
(2057 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
Danx wrote: j_ung wrote: I rappel in on a separate piece of rope that's just long enough to get me past the anchor, usually with a Gri-gri and always with a stopper knot tied in the end of the rope. Probably didn't explain the situation well enough. But the anchor would be setup on top of the rocks on a small single pitch climb, which are easily accessible from scrambling. The securing part is just incase i feel a bit clumbsy while setting up the natural anchors, attaching the static rope etc (so wouldnt need to rappel or anything like that). Would the best method still be as you said above tho, just a seperate rope, with a stopper knot and maybe a clove hitch?
I think you did okay explaining.
Yeah, I think the better method is still the one I described. No falling and "shock loading," plus its easy to control and fine tune, unlike a clove hitch in this situation. If you don't have a Gri-gri, you can rappel in on your normal device with an autoblock back-up (or do a leg wrap) to get your hands free once you're next to the anchor. If you don't have a separate piece of rope for for all this, kachoong's suggestion of using one of the ends of your climbing rope is a good one. When you're done and safe on top again, untie that end from whatever it's anchored to and toss it over.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
