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taalon
Feb 19, 2004, 2:40 AM
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Ok not only is their a diversity to normal english from coast to coast but there is also a diversity to the slang in the rock climbing world. I thot since i have been out for a few years and have recently seen a new Term being used i would start a post and hope that all can contribute to it. Ill put in a few simple ones to get it rolling and none are stupid.
Crux = hardest move on a climb (my definition)
Dyno = Move where you let all your points of contact leave the rock to
grab a new hold.
Static = A move that is easily done by Dynoing it but you try not to lose contact with the rock to complete the same move. Most times harder then the short Dyno in my expericane alot of fun for boulder puzzles.
Now one that throws me i got an idea but need clerification.
Beta?
i take it as giving verbal advice to a climber weather needed or not?!
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tradkelly
Feb 19, 2004, 2:48 AM
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Tradgirl is a good place to start. There's a lot of info out there on the 'slang' - google it to find some more comprehensive sites for the lingo. :idea:
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taalon
Feb 19, 2004, 2:49 AM
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Thanks been out of it so long and it tends to change so much just thot id ask for others input.
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curt
Feb 19, 2004, 2:52 AM
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In reply to: Ok not only is their a diversity to normal english from coast to coast but there is also a diversity to the slang in the rock climbing world. I thot since i have been out for a few years and have recently seen a new Term being used i would start a post and hope that all can contribute to it. Ill put in a few simple ones to get it rolling and none are stupid. Crux = hardest move on a climb (my definition) Dyno = Move where you let all your points of contact leave the rock to grab a new hold. Static = A move that is easily done by Dynoing it but you try not to lose contact with the rock to complete the same move. Most times harder then the short Dyno in my expericane alot of fun for boulder puzzles. Now one that throws me i got an idea but need clerification. Beta? i take it as giving verbal advice to a climber weather needed or not?!
Beta = specific information about a climb or boulder problem. It could be anything like which holds to use, what the sequence of moves is, where to rest, etc.
BTW, your definitions of both "dyno" and "static" are both wrong.
Curt
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taalon
Feb 19, 2004, 3:05 AM
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Well i guess i was wrong then so i will not post anymore on terms. All tho that is not only what i was taught but shown. Maybe im right just not expressing it properly i have no idea sorry.
EDIT:Ok from the above posted link here are the two glossory's from the site.
http://home.tiscalinet.de/ockier/climbing_dict.html
http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Trails/8700/glossary.html
However Static does not show up in either, and Dyno is not really expressed in it so i feel that since one says Dyno is a move done in a Dynamic way that my definition is pretty good for me.
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taalon
Feb 19, 2004, 3:15 AM
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Well my only good example i can give for a Dyno is like in Cliff Hanger when Stallon lunges up to the next hold. Dynamic to me i thot wow big move oh and no points of contact. So i always have desided any move that is extreamly like to cause you to fall if you miss is dynamic. or a dyno for short.
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curt
Feb 19, 2004, 3:23 AM
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In reply to: Well my only good example i can give for a Dyno is like in Cliff Hanger when Stallon lunges up to the next hold.
The movie "Cliff Hanger" may not be your best reference source for accurate climbing information.
Curt
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tnjim
Feb 19, 2004, 4:21 AM
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In reply to: BTW, your definitions of both "dyno" and "static" are both wrong.
I thought they were pretty accurate curt....if not maybe you should enlighten us with your definitions.
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tnjim
Feb 19, 2004, 4:21 AM
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Curt Wrote
In reply to: BTW, your definitions of both "dyno" and "static" are both wrong.
I thought they were pretty accurate curt....if not maybe you should enlighten us with your definitions.
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jv
Feb 19, 2004, 5:53 AM
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In reply to: Curt Wrote In reply to: BTW, your definitions of both "dyno" and "static" are both wrong. I thought they were pretty accurate curt....if not maybe you should enlighten us with your definitions.
Here's the problem: In reply to: Dyno = Move where you let all your points of contact leave the rock to grab a new hold.
So it's not a dyno if only three limbs lose contact, or two? A deadpoint is technically a dyno, and you can do that with only one hand free and three points of contact. Dyno: a move where the climber uses momentum to close the distance between him and the next hold.
In reply to: Static = A move that is easily done by Dynoing it but you try not to lose contact with the rock to complete the same move. Most times harder then the short Dyno in my expericane alot of fun for boulder puzzles.
Problem: So static moves can all be done more easily if done dynamically? Sometimes yes, sometimes no. In other words, not the defining quality. Static: moving toward the next hold without using momentum or dynamic movement.
JV
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keazah
Feb 19, 2004, 6:37 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Well my only good example i can give for a Dyno is like in Cliff Hanger when Stallon lunges up to the next hold. The movie "Cliff Hanger" may not be your best reference source for accurate climbing information. Curt
Completely in favor!! That movie is not acceptable.
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climbon_stone
Feb 19, 2004, 6:57 AM
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Dyno = Dynamic move
look at the word, it defines itself
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taalon
Feb 19, 2004, 12:06 PM
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Why is it when someone uses an example he figures most everyone has seen it some how is not a good example. I think that it was a perfect example for my statement on a dynamic move. Just because its in a movie does not make it any less of a climbing move. Heck i have practice those kinds of moves in a gym while bouldering. Does that make me any less of a climber for trying new things? no i dont think so. I was only using it as an example.
Remember there is no expert to rock climbing in my opinion cause if you were you would not be interested in it any longer as it would no longer be a challenge. That is my thots. I have not said anyone was wrong and only made some statements out of my knowledge yet somehow you seem to think my ideas are totally wrong when infact if anything they are incomplete.
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corpse
Feb 19, 2004, 12:55 PM
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taalon - you are way wrong in your assumption.. There are EXPERTS around here that you should listen too. And these experts continue to climb because they enjoy it. There's not much reason to discusss what each climbing term means, thats what the terms database is for. If someone doesn't agree with the term, then chances are they are being way too critical and can't truly have fun in climbing anyways.
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leinosaur
Feb 19, 2004, 2:13 PM
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RC.com has a great climbing dictionary: :wink:
(Teddy posted the link above)
to-wit:
Crux - n. the most crucial., difficult part of the climb.
(Crux is an interesting word - related to "cross" & once you're past it you've crossed the most difficult territory. Defining it as "crucial" is a bit circular but draws the connection . . . )
Dyno - n. abbreviation for "dynamic movement", a move that requires some use of momentum. (antonym: static movement) 2. (vb.) to perform a dyno.
No def. for static given (but see Dyno)
Beta - n. information about a route.
The dictionary was how I first happened upon RC.com - it's definitely worth a read.
enjoy
leinosaur
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coylec
Feb 19, 2004, 2:19 PM
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As everyone jumps on-board, they forget there is a dictionary on the site. Does no one read? Are these definitions not good enough? Do we need a climbers OED?
I use terms that I have COMPLETELY made up. When other people ask, I tell them I made it up, but they are free to use it in anyway they want. As long as everyone is on the same page, its cool if they aren't on the same sentence. As long as you don't think "take" means "take me off belay," I think we'll be okay.
BTW, if anyone has heard the term "coyling" or "coiling" a cigarette (to extinguish prematurely), that's my most popular word (when I smoked, I'd always put out cigarettes before I got near the filter).
coylec
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oldsalt
Feb 19, 2004, 2:45 PM
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"Coyling" is new to me. It would not be a flattering use of your name if it meant to "bogart" or "mooch". Do you?
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curt
Feb 19, 2004, 3:58 PM
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In reply to: Curt Wrote In reply to: BTW, your definitions of both "dyno" and "static" are both wrong. I thought they were pretty accurate curt....if not maybe you should enlighten us with your definitions.
jv already covered this pretty well and the dictionary definitions are fine too. My specific problem of the definition of "dyno" was the concept of coming entirely off the rock. That only occurs in one specific type of dynamic move. There are actually several types of dynamic climbing maneuvers--and only one of them involves total separation of the climber with the rock.
Dead point - using upward body momentum to grab a hold at the top of your motion. In many deadpoint situations both feet and one hand will stay on the rock. It is still a dynamic move though, because it is not done statically. Dynamic layback - In this situation one hand (on a lieback hold) and at least one foot will stay on the rock. There are other types of dynos where at least one hand will stay on the rock, even if both feet come off. A Dyno where all contact is lost with the rock is most accurately called a free aerial move. This term was coined by John Gill over 30 years ago to describe the maneuver.
Of course, the other problem with the original definitions was in defining a static move as one that is harder than a dynamic move. As has been noted later, sometimes yes, sometimes no.
Curt
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jv
Feb 19, 2004, 4:38 PM
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In reply to: Well my only good example i can give for a Dyno is like in Cliff Hanger when Stallon lunges up to the next hold. Dynamic to me i thot wow big move oh and no points of contact. So i always have desided any move that is extreamly like to cause you to fall if you miss is dynamic. or a dyno for short.
While that is an example of a dyno or dynamic move, it is not a definition. You understand that example does not equal definition, right?
Also, the relative probability of falling has nothing to do with the definition of dyno. It is not a defining quality. As you said before, it may be easier to make a move dynamically than statically. So the climber may be less likely to fall in that situation.
JV
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jt512
Feb 19, 2004, 8:18 PM
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In reply to: Remember there is no expert to rock climbing in my opinion cause if you were you would not be interested in it any longer as it would no longer be a challenge. That is my thots.
The validity of your "thots," is about on par with that of your spelling and grammar.
-Jay
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sticky_fingers
Feb 19, 2004, 8:27 PM
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In reply to: Beta? i take it as giving verbal advice to a climber weather needed or not?!
I need weather
I like good weather....so gimme beta
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climbersoze
Feb 19, 2004, 9:25 PM
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In reply to: I thot since i have been out for a few years
thot - hvaing formerlated in the mind v. thought, (thôt)
Srory... ahd to be the dcikhade
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hosh
Feb 19, 2004, 10:41 PM
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this seems to be a nice time to have a symantical discussion. If you want to get technical, words don't have meaning at all. They have usage. What I mean by that is the word, "word" for example, can either mean "the smallest combination of letters used to communicate a thought", it may mean "a verbal expression uttered in communication" or, if you're in compton, it usually means "yes". Or how about his one, "hooey". In English, it has come to mean, "darn!" But, in Russian, it means "penis." Hmmm... The reason communication is possible between people is because we have an agreement on what certain terms and phrases mean. When I look at all the work I have to do this afternoon and say, "this sucks!" people will think that I don't enjoy it. No body is really going to think I am referring to it's power to create a vaccume. So, if someone disagrees on what "Dyno" means, then they're "outside the cool circle" and they don't "use" the word the same way. Words on their own have no intristic meaning. Spelling, on the other hand, is a little more rigid. Mine "sucks" (as in, "it's not very good", not "it creates a strong vaccume"). :wink: You know what a particular word means judging by the context in which it's used. Um, I think it's funny that people are so dogmatic on things like word usage. The reason we have trouble understanding Old English is because it's become obsolete. Words have a funny way of doing that. They'll even change their "meaning" so much that they're used in the exact opposite way of what they started out meaning. Take, for example, "sick". This word used to refer to something that wasn't good at all. But just think of how it's used commonly today. "Dude, that was a 'sick' dyno!" What is meant by that? The "dyno" was impressive. Words don't have specific "meanings" attached to them. Their meaning is determined by their usage. Doesn't mean that I disagree with the way words have been defined here, just means that it should be a guidline, not an absolute law. If you want to get more complex, read up on "uses loquindi" (sp?)
word.
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