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AdGrenoble
Oct 11, 2013, 9:57 AM
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What is compression climbing exactly?
I have seen online discussions where everybody is confused... and it seems to be thrown around by commentators (eg. IFSC) for very different kind of problems (but usually some that involve physical moves).
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JAB
Oct 11, 2013, 10:41 AM
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It's used mostly in bouldering and describes problems where body compression is essential. Mostly it's arete-style problems. Think of it like a full-body pinch. Shoulder strength is essential for these kind of problems.
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AdGrenoble
Oct 11, 2013, 10:44 AM
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Full body pinch makes sense.
So do we agree that if the two holds currently held by someone are horizontal, then there is no compression?
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JAB
Oct 11, 2013, 10:56 AM
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Obviously there's never a black and white answer to anything, but in general, I'd agree.
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acorneau
Oct 11, 2013, 7:53 PM
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I just set a boulder problem yesterday with compression.
Imagine two sloping pinches each at a 45 degree angle (not horizontal, not side-pulls, but half way in between) with your next feet knee height and right in front of you.
Because the pinches are very slopey you have to pull inward with your arms to get your feet up for the stand-up to the next hold.
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shotwell
Oct 12, 2013, 2:59 AM
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Compression on horizontal holds can happen.
Take for example two very poor horizontal pinches. Space them wider than shoulder width apart. Use high feet to move from one pinch to a side pull next to the other. The whole sequence is in compression because the pinches are too poor to stay on without pulling in.
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spacemonkey07
Nov 25, 2013, 12:28 PM
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a lot of climbing moves use some kind of compression. Especially in the overhanging stuff.. especially with slopers or arretes.
Below are some clips of boulders in Fontainebleau, which are classic compression problems (there are many in Font) Nice to see that compression also happens between feet and hands.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB6HFDwIkXY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uf8qyKHYa0M
(This post was edited by spacemonkey07 on Nov 25, 2013, 12:32 PM)
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