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kbphoenix
May 2, 2002, 8:46 PM
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What is a good first few basic pieces of pro (beside slings, biners, cordelettes) to use in sports climbs to fill in where there is no bolt?
[ This Message was edited by: kbphoenix on 2002-05-02 13:46 ]
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crazywacky
May 2, 2002, 8:56 PM
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I would have to say nuts/stoppers, maybe tricams, and then hexes.
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toobigtoclimb
May 2, 2002, 8:57 PM
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Depending on where you climb and the size of typical opportunities (cracks, etc.), probably a set of nuts or hexes or maybe tricams. After you fill in those pieces of passive protection you can move up to SLCD's (camming devices). Or, if you have a bunch of money, go for the cams right away.
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clam
May 4, 2002, 9:47 PM
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I'd go with a set of hexes; they're inexpensive and they are really bomber pro in the right spots. You can have fun placing them. I'd also get a set of tapers and a couple of Cams in the medium to small range to start with. Wild Country Aliens are good in the smaller ranges. A recent issue of Rock and Ice or Climbing had a great article assessing the merits of various new cams. I gave it back to the guy who lent it to me so I don't know which issue, but it was recent. Have a great time on the rock. And be safe. Learn how to set that pro.
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jdcox_9
May 4, 2002, 11:09 PM
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I would suggest hexes. The larger ones are good for lage cracks even ones with varying widths. I especially like the smaller solid hexes. They are very versitile and I feel that they provide a more solid placement.
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spacemonkey
May 5, 2002, 3:52 PM
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I've been reading a lot about it lately, and I'm also about to start my rack. I'm pretty sure my first purchase is going to be a set of tricams. I read in the Climbing gear guide for 2002 that they are actually almost active camming devices due to their "rocking horse shaped, curved on one side and coming to a single point on the other" design. It also says that they have a variety of differnt usages on the rock. I figure that if that's all I'm going to have to start with, it should be pretty flexible when it comes to its uses. If I'm wrong on that, someone please let me know. Thanks!
Just my 2 cents.
Peace!
Brian
[ This Message was edited by: spacemonkey on 2002-05-05 08:54 ]
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tim
May 5, 2002, 4:23 PM
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Get stoppers, unless they won't fit where you climb. They're cheap, they work well in cracks, they're cheap, you can leave them if you have to back off, and they're cheap.
Did I mention that they're cheap?
You'll get them eventually anyways, might as well do it now. Tri-cams are great but you won't always have time to dick around with them when you're leading.
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iclimbtoo
May 5, 2002, 5:20 PM
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Stoppers then hexs. Cheap and they're SO incredibly versatille. After that, tri-cams are man's best friend!
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spacemonkey
May 5, 2002, 8:17 PM
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Are tricams difficult to place? When would you use one of those versus a stopper? From what I had read, I was under the impression you could use a tricam in a variety if different situations.
peace!
Brian
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iclimbtoo
May 5, 2002, 8:26 PM
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Tri cams are the best in my opinion. It's true, they can be used in so many different ways. But if you want to know more about how and when to use what kind of gear, there might be a different forum on that, plus I would go try to find some firsthand advise at a local wall or from someone more experienced that you know.
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arete2
May 5, 2002, 9:25 PM
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I love my curved hexes, they seem to work in just about every type of crack, and they hold well(sometime to well ) They can usually be found on pretty good sale also.
Arete
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joemor
May 6, 2002, 12:17 AM
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well....... if you ask any trad climber the most used passive gear tricams included on his or her rack, chances are theyl say nuts.... ive got nearly 4 sets..... and love them, i also own hexes and cams and id never go any where without my nuts, but sometimes ill leave the rest behind and just use nuts. the problem that ive heard with tricams is they tend to become "permanent" placements after a fall, though on parralell cracks they are sworn by other climbers as fantastic. so to answer youre questionid say get a set of nuts....... in fact that the first pro id reccomend any 1 getting.
joe
ps make sure u learn how to place your pro before heading up a route.
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kbphoenix
May 6, 2002, 4:30 PM
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Thank you all.
And thanks for your concern, Joe...I took a weekend course in placing gear, and I probably won't be leading (at least anything with ANY difficulty) for a while.
Here's what I went with for my first rack:
2 slings, 3 smaller runners, 5 straight gate, 2 bent gate biners (already have the lockers) 2 cordelettes (sp?) 4 nuts, a mid-size tricam, 6 quickdraws.
Should get me started on sport.
Sounds like my next purchase will have to be hexes and more nuts
Thank you all!
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