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ninepointeight
Jun 28, 2012, 4:15 PM
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Anyone got a good rappel safety acronym? I've been following a lot this season and just started leading. I'm am super slow getting on rappel cause I check everything 15 times rap onto backup another 5 or so times cause I'm afraid I'll miss something.
I use CHK before climbing.
C - shape of doubled back loops
H - rope through both harness loops
K - Knot tied properly
Anyone got a good one for rapping? Things I'd wanna check...
Safety attached to rap anchor.
Rap device extended and loaded properly.
Harness loops doubled back
Autobloc rapped 3 or more times
Biners locked
Rope through both quick links
Knot is good if double rope rappel
Knots in end of rope or rope visible on the ground
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j_ung
Jun 28, 2012, 5:07 PM
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ninepointeight wrote: Anyone got a good rappel safety acronym? I've been following a lot this season and just started leading. I'm am super slow getting on rappel cause I check everything 15 times rap onto backup another 5 or so times cause I'm afraid I'll miss something. I use CHK before climbing. C - shape of doubled back loops H - rope through both harness loops K - Knot tied properly Anyone got a good one for rapping? Things I'd wanna check... Safety attached to rap anchor. Rap device extended and loaded properly. Harness loops doubled back Autobloc rapped 3 or more times Biners locked Rope through both quick links Knot is good if double rope rappel Knots in end of rope or rope visible on the ground
How about SRHABRKK?
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edge
Jun 28, 2012, 5:10 PM
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First, don't fear the so called "Euro Death Knot."
Once you get past that unfortunate name, it is the best knot for joining two ropes on rappel, assuming you dress it properly and leave the tails long. I prefer to call it the:
American
Happy
Fun
Useful
Climbing
Knot,
It's
Terrific!
There may be an acronym in there somewhere if you think about it.
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ninepointeight
Jun 28, 2012, 6:01 PM
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I'm cool with the EDK.
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Gmburns2000
Jun 28, 2012, 7:22 PM
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edge wrote: First, don't fear the so called "Euro Death Knot." Once you get past that unfortunate name, it is the best knot for joining two ropes on rappel, assuming you dress it properly and leave the tails long. I prefer to call it the: American Happy Fun Useful Climbing Knot, It's Terrific! There may be an acronym in there somewhere if you think about it.
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patto
Jun 28, 2012, 8:07 PM
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ninepointeight wrote: Anyone got a good rappel safety acronym? I've been following a lot this season and just started leading. I'm am super slow getting on rappel cause I check everything 15 times rap onto backup another 5 or so times cause I'm afraid I'll miss something.
Great!
Keep it that way. Complacency in rapping is a killer. Think about what you are doing and check all connections between you and death. Be aware of the ends of the rope.
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raingod
Jun 28, 2012, 8:31 PM
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When I was starting out I was taught ABCDE
Anchor, Buckle, Carabiner, Device, Ends
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malcolm777b
Jun 28, 2012, 10:02 PM
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raingod wrote: When I was starting out I was taught ABCDE Anchor, Buckle, Carabiner, Device, Ends
I've seen similar:
Anchor
Bottom
Carabiner
Device
Extra step
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guangzhou
Jun 29, 2012, 2:24 AM
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BARK
Buckle
Anchor
Rappel Device
Knot
Cheers
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Traches
Jun 30, 2012, 2:43 AM
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I like mike barter's-- "Don't be had"
Harness
Anchor
Device
Yeah it's simple. Simple is a good thing. A little nervousness is healthy, it keeps you from making stupid mistakes; paranoia does the opposite. OP it sounds like you need to chill out a bit, but I'm sure that will come as you get a little more experience. Did for me anyway...
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billl7
Jun 30, 2012, 1:22 PM
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Good on you for focusing on 100% visual inspection.
Only use the "bump test" for checking for proper alignment - it's not a load test.
Bill L
P.S. I'd have suggested YGD but this is the beginner's forum.
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marc801
Jun 30, 2012, 5:25 PM
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billl7 wrote: P.S. I'd have suggested YGD but this is the beginner's forum.
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billl7
Jul 1, 2012, 1:25 AM
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marc801 wrote: billl7 wrote: P.S. I'd have suggested YGD but this is the beginner's forum. How about DFU instead? 
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jt512
Jul 1, 2012, 3:25 AM
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IYNAATRSWO=If you need an acronym to rappel safely, walk off.
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marc801
Jul 1, 2012, 2:38 PM
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jt512 wrote: IYNAATRSWO=If you need an acronym to rappel safely, walk off.
I basically do not trust climbing with anyone who needs to recite acronyms to construct safe anchors or to not Darwin themselves when rappelling.
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rgold
Jul 2, 2012, 5:29 AM
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I'm with Marc and Jay; rappelling is no place to start muttering inane incantations, especially abbreviated ones that leave out critical concerns. So let's see, how about screaming
BADTARP JKoMM EKCaHT LRER
into the wind:
Buckle, Anchor, Device, Tether, Autoblock, Rope Path, Joining Knot or Middle Mark, End Knots, Clothing and Hair Tucked, Loose Rock, Ends Reach...
...what did I forget?
And what if its really offensive in Welsh?
Anyway, there is much shorter acronym that gets a lot closer to what really matters: PAS---Pay Attention, Stupid!
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JimTitt
Jul 2, 2012, 3:22 PM
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marc801 wrote: jt512 wrote: IYNAATRSWO=If you need an acronym to rappel safely, walk off. +2 I basically do not trust climbing with anyone who needs to recite acronyms to construct safe anchors or to not Darwin themselves when rappelling.
l´ll vote for that as well.
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ninepointeight
Jul 2, 2012, 4:15 PM
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There is a difference between needing an acronym to rappel safely and wanting one to go through as a final check before taking off.
I typically just start at the anchor and work my way through the system checking everything. Then test rap onto my safety. Then rap.
(This post was edited by ninepointeight on Jul 2, 2012, 4:17 PM)
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desertwanderer81
Jul 3, 2012, 6:28 PM
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ninepointeight wrote: There is a difference between needing an acronym to rappel safely and wanting one to go through as a final check before taking off. I typically just start at the anchor and work my way through the system checking everything. Then test rap onto my safety. Then rap.
No, jt was right. If you're rappelling on multipitch you are on chains. There is no reason to check your harness since you already have it on. There is no reason to check your knot before you go. Either it's tied right or it's not. You're threading chains so there really isn't anything to check there. You might want to look to see which side the knot is on so you can make sure you pull the other side I guess.
How hard is it to weight your atc and check that it is locked before unhooking yourself from the anchor?
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ninepointeight
Jul 3, 2012, 6:34 PM
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desertwanderer81 wrote: No, jt was right. If you're rappelling on multipitch you are on chains.
I'm climbing trad at the Gunks primarily. I could be rapping from chains, a slung tree, a boulder, or gear.
desertwanderer81 wrote: There is no reason to check your harness since you already have it on.
Oh right.... I've never heard of anyone topping out on a climb and taking their harness off to piss or shit.
desertwanderer81 wrote: There is no reason to check your knot before you go. Either it's tied right or it's not.
Nobody advocated not checking things. JT and a few others said an acronym was a bad idea.
(This post was edited by ninepointeight on Jul 3, 2012, 6:40 PM)
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desertwanderer81
Jul 3, 2012, 7:02 PM
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ninepointeight wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: No, jt was right. If you're rappelling on multipitch you are on chains. I'm climbing trad at the Gunks primarily. I could be rapping from chains, a slung tree, a boulder, or gear. desertwanderer81 wrote: There is no reason to check your harness since you already have it on. Oh right.... I've never heard of anyone topping out on a climb and taking their harness off to piss or shit. desertwanderer81 wrote: There is no reason to check your knot before you go. Either it's tied right or it's not. Yea, that's what you check. Nobody advocated not checking things. JT and a few others said an acronym was a bad idea.
If you are climbing trad, there is no time that you will be rappelling off of a gear anchor unless you're bailing. If you are rappelling off of gear it is typically called top roping. I take that back, I once in my 15 years of climbing built an anchor to rappel from because there were no chains and there was no way to get down to the base of the climb by walking down.
I also don't take off my harness when I take a piss and I try my very hardest not to take a shit in a climbing area as it is unhygienic. If you absolutely have to, use a water bottle and just throw it out. Heck, most of my female climbing partners use a funnel and don't take off their harnesses to take a piss either.
Are you even climbing with multiple ropes at the gunks? It's possible.... but I doubt you are. Most trad climbers trail a second rope when they are on a climb that they want to rappell where the pitches are either over 100' or they want to eliminate a bunch of rappells.
Anyhow, while tying your knot you make sure you have some tails.... There really isn't much to check.... What I am saying is that there really isn't that much to check....
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ninepointeight
Jul 3, 2012, 7:11 PM
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You know girls that use a shewee? I got someone that as a joke once.
Wouldn't a situation where you are bailing off of gear also be the situation you'd be at greatest risk of making a mistake? Dying once every 15 years would be too often.
Certainly I'd rather not shit in a highly used area like the Gunks, but provided you don't shit on the GT ledge and bury it away from the cliff, it's not a that big of a deal. However, as I gain experience I will want to venture further from civilization. In the Adirondacks, the situation will likely come up.
Yes, some of my partners use double ropes. They are pretty common in the Gunks due to the wandering nature of the routes.
No, there isn't much to check, but the price of a fuckup is pretty high.
(This post was edited by ninepointeight on Jul 3, 2012, 7:20 PM)
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bearbreeder
Jul 3, 2012, 7:47 PM
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acronyms are a crutch for beginners who dont climb that much ... they MAY be useful for the first few times you go out, but after that if yr anywhere serious about climbing, you shouldnt need em as youll be practicing the skills every time you go out
keep practicing the skills over and over again till it becomes second nature and you dont need acronyms ...
because when you are cold tired and hungry in the dark 10+ raps up from the base ... you better have it dialed
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Gmburns2000
Jul 3, 2012, 7:47 PM
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desertwanderer81 wrote: I try my very hardest not to take a shit in a climbing area as it is unhygienic.
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