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babsmagoo
Jul 14, 2002, 2:13 AM
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Hello there!
I wonder if anyone could help me? As a more mature member of society I'm pretty new to this game but as my husband Jean-Pierre has just taken early retirement we both quite fancied a go at climbing having spent many happy years orienteering.
Despite being a couple of thrillseekers (we just can't help it) strange things do go through my head...
I wonder for example whether we should be using lockable or non-lockable carabiners as we hang there by a thread as it were - do you see?
Have there been many accidents involving loose carabiners? Still - it's better to live like a lion I guess!:)
Wish us luck... As a inspirational gift our daughter Miranda (who lives in Sweden) has bought us a musical disc entitled Fin de Siecle by a talanted young British group called The Divine Comedy. It gives up hope that there is life beyond the end of the century and indeed there there is a certainty of chance that life on earth goes on after the sunset days of ones working life and into the sunrise of retirement.
Thanks
Babs X
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topher
Jul 14, 2002, 3:14 AM
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lockers are used at ancours and belay stations, the atacment point to your belay device, hook a person up to a rope (not usaly done) and if you realy want to be safe you can use them every where. but usaly quick draws are non locking. but i have used locking quick draws in realy weird situations. other than that if you feel that a ragual biner has a good chance of opening then put a locker on instead. other than that have fun and enjoy the rock. one last note if you can find a climber(s) in your area that know there stuff and ask them to show you the ropes (pardon the pun).
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jt512
Jul 14, 2002, 6:15 PM
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Babs,
There is no simple answer to your question. You and your husband should take some climbing lessons from a certified mountain guide, who will teach you what equipment to use and how to use it.
-Jay
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wildtrail
Jul 14, 2002, 6:56 PM
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Not to mention Steckler did a route a few years back for Anyplace Wild. He climbed a Yosemite bigwall, one that he put up with others in the 50's or 60's, and he was 74 at the time.
Steve
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kevlar
Jul 15, 2002, 9:53 PM
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Hello an welcome to climbing,
I am a youngster at 39...an have found climbing to make me feel young again. You will find many chances to excell at climbing but before worrying about "locking or regular carabiners" I agree and suggest that you take lesson from a " qulified instructor"
To answer your question " locking biners " are safer but more difficult to use...it is up to you...Me I use "locking biners" everywhere but at my quickdraws.
Back to lessons...climbing is doing the same thing over and over...and you get to a point where you can tie knots without having to look at them or think about it...but you always need to be aware of what is safe and what is "safer"...Only you can choose at what levels you wish to climb and having a competent instructor can help you achieve this goal safely and enjoyably...
I love the sport and wish you the best years of your life climbing...I know soon I will be as old as you and hope to be going with new adventures as it seems you are...
Happy climbing...john
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climberstephen
Jul 15, 2002, 10:17 PM
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jt512 is right. This forum shouldn't be used as a substituted for lessons from a trained expert. The info posted in these forums is extremely opinionated and should be referred to as advice only. Good luck and welcome to climbing!
[ This Message was edited by: climberstephen on 2002-07-15 15:18 ]
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babsmagoo
Jul 16, 2002, 3:01 PM
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Dear Friends (if i may be so bold)
Many thanks for your kind words of advice. I shall indeed seek out professional lessons for ourselves.
It's great to hear that there are so many mature "Thrillseekers" out there
When i told Jean-Pierre of your wonderful replies he was even more determined that we start this pursuit together - he replied his mission was to become eternal!!! Silly man
Do any of you climbers listen to music whilst climbing or does it tend to distract you? Dare I take the wonderful Divine Comedy Climbing with me - or should i wait till we're a little more experienced?
Babs
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fishypete
Jul 16, 2002, 3:33 PM
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I have heard people playing music at the cliffs from a "Ghetto Blaster", but that can be a touchy approach as some people (who are generally nearby!) prefer their experience to be as peaceful/natural as possible.
The only other thought - I know many people who use a walkman when they are boulding longer routes e.g. traverses, as they find it helps to get them into the flow and gain 100% concentration. If you like to use buzz words, it helps them find "the zone" where everything is completely fluid and they feel no distractions.
Good Luck! Hope to see you lots around RC.com in the future!
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fishypete
Jul 16, 2002, 3:33 PM
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I have heard people playing music at the cliffs from a "Ghetto Blaster", but that can be a touchy approach as some people (who are generally nearby!) prefer their experience to be as peaceful/natural as possible.
The only other thought - I know many people who use a walkman when they are boulding longer routes e.g. traverses, as they find it helps to get them into the flow and gain 100% concentration. If you like to use buzz words, it helps them find "the zone" where everything is completely fluid and they feel no distractions.
Good Luck! Hope to see you lots around RC.com in the future!
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cathal
Jul 16, 2002, 4:00 PM
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Divine Comedy rule!
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detourdave
Jul 17, 2002, 7:08 PM
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A locking carabiner is good for the first placement off the ground also if you are trad leading or on a sport climb. Using all lockers on a whole route would probably burn more energy than it is worth.
It IS possible for non-locking carabiners to dissconnect with the rope in unusual situations, sometimes through vibration on a fall when the rope is sliding through the biner (less so with wire gate biners I understand) and if they are cross loaded or a rope or other object presses against the gate when you are not looking.
Your question implies that you will start with trad climbing as opposed to sport climbing. I suggest you start with some lessions, progress to the gym and then get outdoors on top rop. None of which require you worry about what biner to use on the rope. Locking biners are used for setting up top rope anchors though. Your first outdoor TR experiences should be with an experienced climber though, setting up anchors can be tricky outdoors.
Have fun!
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